This is a book i just couldnt put down.. As a surfer myself and having read countless of surf stories by other writers in surf magaines and books, I have to applaud Tom's style.. its not easy to write about the stoke and joy that surfing brings to you because its such an intricate feeling which is hard to describe but Tom nails this from the very first page.
Surfers can relate to what he writes about, for example, Jeffreys Bay was the one wave that Tom felt he should ride before he dies and made it his life mission to surf there, Mine was exactly the same but the location being G-Land (in Indonesia). So in alot of ways, the book made me think back to my previous surfing experiences and although similar in some ways the writer's, made me appreciate how much surfing has enriched my life. Needless to say i Surf alot more often now!
its a must read for any surfer, you'l be surprised by how much you can relate to it and its like reading a book about yourself at times!
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