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4.1 out of 5 stars
216
4.1 out of 5 stars
Style Name: ADSL2+ Modem/USB Router|Change
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on 27 April 2013
I bought a TP-Link TD-8817 modem in conjunction with the Asus RT-N66U router, as the two in combination was highly recommended by many Amazon reviewers and in other forums. I had decided to update my home network as my existing Netgear DGN5500 modem/router was creaking under the strain of a home demanding a lot from its wireless network, causing frequent wireless dropouts: quite a common problem these days where there are many tablets, phones, laptops etc. all trying to connect in the same household at the same time. There are also a lot of 2.4 GHz wireless networks operating in my local neighbourhood, adding to the problem. The Asus RT-N66U router has a dual band 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz wireless capability and as there were not many 5 GHz wireless networks currently operating in my neighbourhood the theory was dual band would significantly improve my network capability and give me access to an uncluttered band. A separate modem / router would also give me more versatility and less future redundancy.

So, I placed my order. Delivery from Amazon was prompt as usual.

The TD-8817 modem is quite functionally rich given its price. The GUI is simple to understand. I followed the setup & installation instructions per the supplied manual / disc. That didn’t work, so I then tried using the advice that other Amazon reviewers had been kind enough to post previously. This time around, I got the required connection and then proceeded to connect my Asus RT-N66U router to my TD-8817 modem. This went smoothly. Excellent, I thought. Job done!

Then the problems started. The TD-8817 modem wouldn’t hold the connection for more than a minute or two. I obviously had more internet forum research to do! But without a stable network connection, how could I do this? I disconnected the new TD-8817 modem and reconnected using my old Netgear modem / router.

After many hours of research - often having to compare / contrast seemingly conflicting advice (such are forums these days) - I identified that some different settings were required on the TD-8817 modem. So, I disconnected my Netgear (again), re-installed the TD-8817 modem (again) and the Asus RT-N66U router (again) and bingo – stable connection. This connection was stable over night through to 3pm the next day. Then the problems started again. Now, I know network speed tends to suffer when the schools turn out. The kids come home, check their Facebook accounts, start playing on-line games etc. But, the TD-8817 modem was completely incapable of holding a connection and when it finally refused to connect at all, I decided enough was enough! I decided that the TD-8817 modem needs to go back as it’s not fit for my purpose and I didn’t want to waste any more time researching, disconnecting, reconnecting etc. However, as I am impressed with the Asus RT-N66U router, I’m still using it, albeit with my Netgear DGN3500 operating in bridge mode. However, as I really want to use the Netgear DGN3500 as a wireless repeater, which clearly I can’t do at the moment, I’m now looking for another modem – although there aren’t many to choose from. Time will tell whether I keep the Asus RT-N66U router or whether it goes back as well.

UPDATE

Having subsequently carried out more research, it seems that the problem I have experienced with the TD-8817 modem is quite common. Basically, without going into the specifics of SNR, line attenuation, ADSL 2+, VPI/VCI settings etc., the TD-8817 modem is completely useless if you are more than 2.4km away from your local telephone exchange (telephone line length that is, not line of sight) because of the chipset the TD-8817 modem uses. I need a modem which uses a Broadcom chipset, which holds long-line connections much better. My old Netgear modem/router uses this chipset, which is why it’s working brilliantly in bridge mode. The frustrating thing about this whole experience is that TP-Link should be more honest with its customers and tell people that its TD-8817 modem is unsuitable for customers who have long line lengths from their telephone exchange. Especially since, given the TD-8817 modem’s price point, it’s likely to be bought by customers who are not network savvy – which I wasn’t until I had to go through this experience! I’m now a real bore at the pub, trying to impress everyone with my newly found knowledge on home networking! Don’t make the same mistake I did! Either do your research thoroughly and get a separate modem/ router appropriate to your particular networking requirements or get a combined router/modem combination and save yourself a lot of hassle.

So in summary, if you have a long line length from your local exchange (there are websites which will calculate this for you), don’t buy this modem.
1313 comments| 160 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
on 12 April 2011
I was looking for an ADSL2+ modem to go with a new TP-Link TL-WR1043ND gigabit router. I prefer the flexibility of a separate modem and router than an combined modem/router. This is especially useful if I move to a fibre based internet connection in the future as I won't need to change my router only the modem.

Searching for ADSL2+ modems shown them to be rather expensive for what they are. However a few further searches on Amazon found me this very cheap TP-Link TD-8817 modem (and single port router).

Installation was very simple (I updated to the latest firmware) and I was up and running in minutes! Initially I just connected a PC to the WAN port of the TD-8817 to check out access to the internet. Following this I then connected the supplied ethernet cable to my TL-WR1043ND.

Note to anyone considering a similar setup and is a little lost on the networking front.... As supplied both routers have the same default IP address and DHCP switched on. I changed the TD-8817 from the supplied 192.168.1.1 to 192.168.0.1 and switched DHCP off. I left the TL-WR1043ND router with the supplied 192.168.1.1 address and DHCP switched on, but configured the WAN connection as 192.168.0.250 (note this could be anything you like in the 192.168.0.xxx range, e.g. 192.168.0.100), subnet 255.255.255.0, gateway as 192.168.0.1 and DNS as 192.168.0.1 to ensure internet traffic from the TL-WR1043ND passes to and from the TD-8817 modem/router. All was up and running smoothly within 30 mins. This setup has also continued to run without any rebooting for the last couple of months I've had the kit.

I thoroughly recommend the TD-8817, great value for money and it just works straight out of the box. The same is true of the TL-WR1043ND, it has a very useful USB port on it which I use to provide a network access to USB disk drive.
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on 19 February 2013
I found setting up the TP-Link TD8817 more challenging than I expected. The device comes with a mini-CD with the setup utility and a small setup guide. I could not run the CD in my laptop so opted to try the web interface instead. There is a sticky label across the terminals telling you not to do this but the manual says you can! The default IP is 192.186.1.1 which was fine for my system so logging on and configuring was straightforward. In fact it only required me to enter my country, Broadband Provider and log-in credentials and off it went to connect. The ADSL light blinked as did the internet light but it would not connect. For my next attempt I downloaded the setup utility from the TP-Link website and started over. This time I did get on the internet with a good connection speed, comparable to my old ADSL (wireless G) router which I was replacing. All was well for about ten minutes until the connection was lost and nothing I could do re-established it.

I contacted the TP-Link customer support line. To their credit, they answered quite promptly and I spoke with a lady called Doris. She asked about the status of the various LEDs and suggested I may not have plugged in the lead to my phone line! When I said that I had been on the internet briefly she said the fault was with my ISP and I should contact them. I told her my old modem/router worked so she asked me to reconnect it and eventually said it was a hardware problem and I should send my TP-Link modem back to my supplier, not them. I did not bother to suggest she might like me to send her the modem log-files because she really did not seem very interested.

I left the TP-Link connected overnight and next day I could see the ADSL light was solid green with a green flashing internet light. When I connected I found I had a good internet connection but my connection speeds were 25% slower than my old modem/router. And that's where it has stayed since. The signal to noise ratio on my line is high - I'm a long way from the exchange near the end of the system in our area so it clearly affected the TP-Link more than my old Orange Broadband Siemens device. At the end of the day, the modem is doing it's job and is allowing me to use a standalone (Netgear N900 WNDR4500) dual band wireless router which has vastly improved media streaming and other traffic around my system so I am completely satisfied with the unit.

Given it is about one-third of the price of other ADSL modems I felt I had to give it 5-stars even with the issues I experienced.

I found two different ways to set up the TP-Link/Netgear combination so if you are interested read on:

Method 1 - the hard way:
I followed another reviewer's approach by disabling DHCP and changing the subnet of the TP-Link to 192.168.0.1 with the Netgear left at 192.168.1.1. The Netgear automatic genie could not find the internet connection so I had to do a manual setup. In the Netgear router I left DHCP on, set the "no login required" tab and set the internet static IP address to 192.168.0.100 (the 100 could be any free number in the range that you like), IP subnet mask 255.255.255.255, Gateway IP Address 192.168.0.1 (that of the modem's) and Primary DNS Server 192.168.0.1.

This worked but I had two hardware firewalls between me and the Web. I have a number of devices which I access from outside my network but I could not work out the two sets of port forwarding settings in order to reach these. I could get out from the Router, but not back through the modem. I'm sure it's possible but I could not work it out.

On the other hand, I could login to the TP-Link using 192.168.0.1 in a browser to see what was happening and make any changes.

Method 2 - the easy way:

Set up the modem as instructed by TP-Link to ensure it can connect to the internet. Then undo all the good work by setting the modem to Bridge Mode: leaving your standalone Router to do all the clever stuff. Forget all about PPPoA and PPPoE - don't worry that your standalone router only has PPPoE and you want PPPoA, really just pretend it isn't an issue. I connected the Netgear (which does not have PPPoA), the setup genie instantly detected my internet connection, asked for my login credentials and then connected me to my PPPoA ISP. It was that easy. It took me over two days to find out that I could have done this in two minutes.

Having done this, I cannot login to the TP-Link via a web browser, I would have to hard-wire it and change my computer's subnet to the 192.169.0.xxx range.
33 comments| 15 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
on 22 November 2012
Having suffered with BT's Home Hub for a while, and then a terrible Belkin (Belkin Wireless N600 Modem Router ADSL (BT Line)), I've decided to try Apple's Apple Airport Extreme 802.11n 5th Generation, as we're a fairly OS X- and iOS-heavy household. As the AirPort Extreme doesn't include a modem, I needed a separate modem to get online, and this fits the bill cheaply and (so far) reliably.

This modem syncs up with the exchange at quite a high bitrate for the target signal-to-noise ratio, which could result in some instability on very long lines. I'm in a rural location with a mid-to-long line, though, and it works well, syncing about 1 Mbit/s higher than the Home Hub it replaces. It can also function as a router and NAT gateway, but I haven't tested this. The configuration webpage exposes a dazzling array of settings, and as such is a bit intimidating, so I'd recommend a bit of technical knowledge, or some patience and plenty of Googling, if you want to understand everything on offer.

A quick note about my setup: in areas where BT Wholesale has migrated ADSL service to 21CN (you can check the dataset here to see if your exchange is enabled: [ ... ]), you can use either PPP over ATM (PPPoA, the most common way to connect to ADSL in the UK) or PPP over Ethernet (PPPoE). The upshot is that you can put the modem into bridge mode - the setup assistant can do this for you - then use the AirPort Extreme, or any other router, to manage the ADSL connection using PPPoE. After I put the modem into bridge mode, I just connected it to the AirPort Extreme's WAN port, then ran the AirPort Utility, and it automatically detected the modem and walked me through configuring it. If you're a BT Broadband customer, the username you want is 'bthomehub@btinternet.com', and the password is 'password' (it really is!). Bridging the connection has the advantage that you aren't limited to the modem's routing, or doomed to having an additional layer of NAT. Happy networking!
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on 15 April 2013
If you're looking at this thinking its a bit cheap, will it be reliable, will it drop the connection, will it have crappy firmware? So was I and I am glad to say in the last couple of months its been totally reliable, has a great responsive web UI and firmware and has given me the best rate on my line and a mile from my exchange. Its my 3rd piece of TP-Link kit and I am fairly impressed with them.

My 7 year old Belkin Mimo G router was totally reliable but I wanted an wireless N router. My ISP gave a low end N modem/router which had firmware issues and couldn't hold ADSL2+ reliably. That never got above 12MB and the Belkin achieved 13.7Mb, this TP-LINK achieved the full 16Mb I can expect on my line and I am about 1 mile from my exchange. Flicking through the menus, it is fully featured a modem/router, albeit with one port. I didn't try any of it as I put it straight into PPPOE mode and connected it to my separate ASUS RT-N66U.

I am a plug and play, never read the manual sort of person but this had some serious stickers all over it telling you to run the CD and follow the instructions, so I did and had no problems going through the wizard. I connected my PC to the LAN port, followed the wizard and got on the internet in 2 mins. Getting it to play with my wireless router required a bit more faff, I changed the IP address of the modem to 192.168.2.1 and left my router on 192.168.1.1, then made sure DHCP was turned off on the modem and configured it to operate in as a PPPOE modem.

I ended up using the USB cable at one point and still use it now to check on the modem. You cannot access the web interface over the LAN once its configured for PPPOE the other side of your router. However, you CAN have it working as a modem on the LAN port and simultaneously and access the admin page from the USB cable connection. So no faffing with swapping cables if you need to configure it, both USB and LAN cables are in the box along with the mini-CD, manual and PSU. The PSU is typical of what you get these days with a separate plate to allow you slot in the UK 3 pin adapter. Make sure it clicks firmly into place, I found it a bit wobbly at first.

I chose a separate modem/router after reading reviews of combined ADSL/Modem Wireless N, Gigabit Ethernet routers are at the top end of home routers and tend to either have great features, but a poor modem, good modem, then firmware issues etc. Yes you need two plugs and two boxes but if that's not an issue it makes things more flexible and means I won't have to replace the WHOLE router when we get fibre.

In the meantime this is an excellent ADSL2+ modem and an ideal companion to a separate router.
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on 17 June 2011
It's been a while since I bought an ADSL router. My current box was constantly freezing up so I wanted a reliable replacement. I wanted a simple ADSL router to compliment my Airport Extreme. I was attracted to this unit by it's price and the good reviews it had.
Installing it couldn't have been simpler. Plugged it in, navigated to the admin console, selected my provider, typed in my username and password and I was away stright away. I had spent the previous 10 minutes noting down the settings from my old box, which I didn't need in the end. Everything was set for me. Having spent the time to write the settings down, I did check through them and they were all correct.
So far the connection has not dropped.
Altogether, I'm very pleased with it.
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on 9 February 2013
I used the TD-8817 in combination with an ASUS RT N66U wi-fi router.

My local telephone exchange supports 21CN, so I've configured them both to use PPPoE.

This combination is working very well, with a reliable ADSL connection, even though I'm some miles from the exchange.

I used the above combination to replace a Billion office grade ADSL modem/router, that had complete wi-fi failure after only two years.

I'm hoping that "separates" rather than an "all in one" is a more longer lasting approach.

The TD-8817 is a small neat unit taking up very little space, and runs cool to the touch. Setup was fairly straight-forward, mostly using defaults, apart from selecting PPoE.
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on 16 January 2014
I was slightly apprehensive about replacing my BT Home Hub 3 with this modem and hooking it up to an ASUS RT-N66U router, even though I am technically savvy and have a degree in electronics. Networking is a specialised skill of its own and is something of a black art and I have only a rudimentary understanding. However, it couldn't have been easier. I just plugged it in and followed the instructions and it just connected to BT Broadband (suspect I am not far from an exchange in Cambridge and I know the cabinet is only a couple of hundred metres away). Once I'd got it set up and had the web page working OK, I plugged it into my ASUS (come on now) and ran the ASUS setup wizard. It just all worked. It even seemed to set the modem to bridge mode, because when I went to do it, it was already set to it. For me, the combination of this plus the ASUS works perfectly and (so far at least) is much more reliable than the BT HH3.
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on 28 September 2012
Really can't fault this very modestly priced piece of gear, which replaced a four year old router that was starting to fail. Though I had to tinker a bit with the settings it was soon up and running, connected to my Mac and Apple Extreme. Performance so far is excellent. Free shipping and delivery within 24 hours was a bonus. Why pay more?
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on 1 June 2013
Having bought this low-cost TD-8817 modem/router along with an ASUS-Wireless Router RT-N66U, and having spent time searching the various Forums, I just wanted to summarise things specifically for Sky DSL Broadband users:

1. Does the above combination work together on Sky BB? Yes
2. Does the above combination allow you to use the advanced features of the ASUS N66U router? No

So in summary, if you want a good, low-cost modem (sub £15) with some routing capabilities the TP-Link TD-8817 is 'good enough'. If you want more, then I'm now going to buy the Draytek Vigor 120 (around £50). If you're interested to learn the 'why' behind both these statements, then please read-on.

Does it work and why is it 'good enough'?

On the TD:
Deactivate all the PVC's except PVC0
Set the LAN IP to be 10.5.0.1, subnet 255.255.255.252 (this means it only gives out 1 IP...10.5.0.2)
Keep DHCP switched-on (so that it gives an IP address to the WAN port on the N66U e.g. 10.5.0.2)
Keep the TD NAT switched-on
Switch-off the firewall and QoS (both are on the N66U)
Sky adsl is PPOA and MUX or LLC encapsulation (both the latter work)

On the N66U:
WAN Configuration - set to 'Automatic IP', enable NAT, auto DNS or input OpenDNS for example.
LAN Configuration - set this up the way you would normally do (making sure the IP range is something like 10.5.1.0 (with LAN IP 10.5.1.1 with other 10.5.1.2/3/4 etc IP's given out by DHCP))

Switch-off both devices, switch the TD on first - wait 'til all the lights are on - then connect the WAN port on the N66U to the TD ethernet port and power-up the N66U and you should see via the N66U's browser-based management console that the N66U's WAN IP is 10.5.0.2 and that the Internet light on the router is flashing. Be aware that you have it working in what's called 'Double-NAT'ing' (as NAT is on both the modem and the router) - this can cause problems with some online games.

Why doesn't this allow use of the advanced feature-set? Because the WAN IP of the N66U is 'private' and you can't reach it from anywhere on the Internet. So if you want to create a VPN to the N66U (so you can use iPlayer and the like whilst you're overseas) or if you want to use OpenDNS for web content filtering, then you need the Draytek modem. Why? Because the TD-8817 doesn't (to my knowledge now) bridge between Sky's PPOA and the N66U's PPOE. The TD has an option to enable a (software) bridge port for PPOE but this is no use if the TD has to be set-up in PPOA to get an internet connection from Sky. If Sky used PPOE then this TD device would do the basic AND the advanced stuff because the TD would connect on PPOE and pass its internet IP through to the N66U (which is also on PPOE). I've read a few threads about putting the TD in 'bridge' mode. Again this is no use if you are a Sky BB customer because you're bridging to the N66U which can't connect using PPOA (you can only configure PPOE on the N66U).

So, what makes the Draytek different is that it CAN bridge between PPOA (on the Draytek) and PPOE (on your N66U). This will mean the Draytek passes Sky's internet IP through to the WAN interface on the N66U - meaning that you can now reach the N66U from anywhere on the internet. As the Sky internet IP is dynamic, there is an option on the N66U to set-up DDNS which seamlessly manages any change in your Sky dynamically allocated public IP (say you rebooted the modem, every time you do this, Sky allocate you a different internet IP, you would not know how to connect by IP if you were overseas).

I also read somewhere that if you're further than 1.5 or 2 miles from your Exchange then the TD didn't work - that's cabling rather than line of sight distance btw. Unsure if this is true - but bear it in mind.

The key point is that if your ISP uses PPOE then the TD is fine, it's a combination of Sky using PPOA with the TD not bridging to PPOE, that means Draytek's PPOA to PPOE in-built bridge does the trick.

Hope that helps explain why some people say 'it works/it doesn't' and why, depending on your ISP, even the basic/advanced 'it works' is more difficult for Sky BB users to understand?

If I've missed a trick please let me know.
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