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Customer reviews

3.4 out of 5 stars
3.4 out of 5 stars
D-Link DSL-320B ADSL2+ Ethernet Modem UK Model
Price:£21.99+ Free shipping with Amazon Prime

on 15 April 2017
This modem (revision Z1) can operate as a modem-router, half-bridge modem, full-bridge modem. The default configuration is half-bridge modem. At times, the user interface can be a bit confusing. I found the easiest way to set it the modem-router mode was to use the Wizard. The easiest way to use the full-bridge modem mode was to reset the device and follow the ‘How to setup DSL 320B revision Z1 in bridge mode’ instruction on the D-Link website. With the device connected, the connection was stable enough. The connection speed was slightly disappointing; however, I have seen more expensive products perform worse. It is a low cost product, so it is probably reasonable for the price. I wanted a modem that would work in full-bridge mode and the device does the job well enough.
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on 29 August 2012
I bought this because I wanted to measure an ethernet modem download speed to compare with my existing router download speed. I wanted to prove to Talktalk that a recent reduction of 1Mb in speed was due to the line rather than to my router or PC.
The instructions are simple but when they say 'be sure your internet connection is active' what they really mean is 'make sure your telephone line is provided with a broadband service'.
The installation Wizard contains a list of broadband providers which includes Talktalk and Tiscali. I was with Tiscali before Talktalk took it over so was unsure which to choose. I chose Tiscali and the DNS numbers which resulted are in the same range as those for my existing router set-up but maybe choosing Talktalk would have worked as well.
I did not get an internet connection straight away. I got a standard message after installation along the lines of ' you may need to change your ip address' - but did not know what that meant. After trawling Google for a couple of hours looking for product reviews and installation comments I eventually found some advice that worked. I did Start - Run -cmd - enter - ipconfig/release- enter. This removed the ip address. I then replaced it with .......-ipconfig/renew - enter.
That gave me an internet connection ( although it took a couple of attempts) and the modem works fine (and at the same speed as the router).
My message would be 'If it doesn't work first time, don't throw it away or send it back but have a go at changing the ip address.'
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on 20 September 2017
A top quality modem. Works slickly and effectively. Guaranteed to work with Sky
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on 16 September 2017
perfect, quick setup highly recommended
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on 9 April 2015
It "just works" but...BIG WARNING. As supplied, v1.05 of the firmware has a security defect. If you use this as a modem or modem/router to connect to your ISP (therefore you enter your username and password, encapsulation, PPPoA, DNS settings etc then it can and will be hacked. One symptom is that the DNS settings can be changed from the internet without authentication (logging on). Generally the hack is used to redirect http calls from your browser to popup ad services or porn sites. Contacting D-Link with the symptoms causes them to mail you v1.07 of the firmware which solves the issue. Why this has not been put onto their web site or supplied out of the box I don't know.

If, however, you use it in Bridge mode, whereby it is a pure modem and simply passes the connection to your normal router to handle the username and password, DNS settings etc, then there is no problem. But in this case, once conifgured in Bridge mode, you can no longer access its web configuration in order to view the ADSL stats such as connection speed and SNR values.

I note that AAISP (Andrews & Arnold) will supply this device if you want but they publicise that it has security issues and they pre-configure it in Bridge mode and place tape over the Reset hole as a deterrent against resetting it to factory settings!
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on 11 November 2014
Works Well!
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TOP 500 REVIEWERVINE VOICEon 30 September 2014
In some ways I can understand the negative reviews this (and most other) modem and routers get from frustrated owners - it's one of the few areas that hasn't been made plug-n-play easy and it's difficult to avoid struggling with passwords and obscure networking settings to get things going right. Just to confirm, this modem is what you need if you've got a separate standalone router and want to connect it to a standard phone-line to access standard ADSL broadband. It's also what you need if you don't have any wi-fi devices at all and just need to connect a single computer to broadband with an Ethernet cable, though that scenario must be quite rare these days.

To give D-Link some credit, they have tried to make setting this modem up on your phone-line as easy as possible - there's a quick setup wizard onboard which knows about the technical settings for hundreds of European ISP's and you only need to provide the username and password your ISP gave you and you're basically done. It worked first time for me and I was online in a couple of minutes - at least until I tried to connect to my Linksys router, more about that later. There's a setup DVD included but you probably won't need it to begin with - it contains the quick setup guide, the full manual and a link to get technical support but there's a printed copy of the setup guide in the box and the DVD only runs properly on Windows, so Mac and Linux users are left to figure it out themselves anyway.

Most people will connect this modem to a wi-fi router to share their broadband connection with other devices and that's when some might have a problem. This modem's default IP address is set to which is the same as some wi-fi routers default to - Linksys routers for example. You cannot have two devices on a network set to the same IP address so unless you reconfigure one of them to use a different IP it's just not going to work. This is that inevitable moment when you'll have to log into the modem (or router) via your web-browser and tinker with the settings manually to avoid such a conflict.

While you're logged-in you'll discover this modem has a host of other obscure networking settings and a bunch of features usually reserved for full-blown routers - things like parental controls for blocking certain websites at certain times, setting preferred DNS servers, toggling the onboard DHCP server, QoS settings, VLAN support and a host of other geek-happy tweaks you can make if you know what you're doing. If you don't know you can leave them all alone and just get a fast and stable modem. My previous modem, before it died completely, kept dropping the ADSL connection and then would hang leaving us all in internet limbo. This modem has reset the connection a couple of times but seems to recover quickly and just keep going and compared to its ageing predecessor it's as stable as a rock. My only minor complaint is that the four LED's, which indicate power, DSL, Ethernet and LAN activity, are awkwardly placed on the bevelled edge of the router where they can be difficult to see during daylight hours. Apart from that very minor quibble it's a very capable and speedy little modem.
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on 25 April 2017
I have been using the modem for a two weeks, and already it has stopped giving me any feedback about what it is doing, while also failing to actually provide internet over adsl.

I know its not anything to do with my network, as I've gone though all the checks necessary to ensure that its not being blocked by a firewall or lost its ip address. Ive shut down anti-virus software, re-configured routers, changed routers, tried different cables, different phone points, different windows settings and executables. Nothing seems to make any difference to its connectivity or the lack of management panel. To top it off my dads 10 year old modem which ran his old xp machine works fine.

For whatever reason it no-longer presents its management panel, and none of the buttons or switches bring it back. I have tried everything and it simply does not work, the lights come on, but it seems nobody is home.

2 stars as it did work for a short while before becoming un-usable.
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on 10 August 2016
I was having trouble with my BT Homehub 3 dropping WiFi connections and losing DNS, so I wanted to use an old WL-500gpV2 WiFi router, re-flashed with dd-wrt firmware, that I had used in the past on a cable modem. This worked much better for WiFi, daisy-chained off the Homehub, but you can't turn off the WiFi on the Homehub and I didn't want a double NAT. I bought this unit to use as a modem plus bridge to completely replace the Homehub.

I should have done a bit more research, because it doesn't work with the protocol BT uses in bridge mode, despite incorrect claims to the contrary in some of the Amazon reviews (caution - read the comments against reviews!). However, I did get it working satisfactorily using the method given by JF Sebastian. I have added further comments to his review.
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on 3 January 2016
If you want to use this with Sky Broadband, please note that it won't work in bridged mode, as it cannot translate Sky's PppoA to PppoE, only something like the Vigor 120/130 will do this. The option to get it working on Sky (without creating a Double Nat environment), is to assign your chosen wireless router to be in the DMZ of this D-Link modem/router.

If Double NAT is present you won't be able to use some of the advanced functions of your wireless router, such as VPN, AiCloud etc.

It has quite a short lead on the PSU, so it needs to be close to a socket, plus it's so light, it falls over easily. Hello Blu-tack. It's not a bad modem, but it could be better. Speeds were about 16gb/1gb, compared to my old Netgear DGND3700v2 @ 18gb/1.1. Ultimately the lower speeds relegated it to be a back up modem.

instructions to set up DMZ:

If this all sounds a bit fancy, and complicated, then it's not, and it's fairly easy to set up. Firstly you need your Sky username and password from your Sky router, Google is your friend. If, like me, you were migrated from O2 broadband, just use username install@o2broadband.co.uk password should be blank, but the d-link insists on a password, just use install as the password. This will work, even if you weren't on O2 previously.

You can use the wizard to connect, then jump to the section regarding LAN setup, or do it manually.

Connect your PC to the d-link via ethernet, type username/password is admin/admin, click on ADSL setup (individual settings listed next, most will be default already):
manual setup, pvc0, ipv4, install@o2broadband, install, pppoa vc-mux, 0, 0, auto, enable, disable, enable, 0, 38, enable, ubr, 0, then save settings.

Click on LAN setup (here are the settings):,, enabled,,, 259200, then under DHCP Table select from the pop up arrow, add the MAC address of your wireless router, it will be on the bottom/side of the router looks something like CA:FE:C0:FF:EE:00, then Save settings.

Then click advanced, then Firewall/DMZ. Click to enable firewall, click to enable DMZ. Then add in the DMZ IP address blank box, and click apply settings.

What you have done is use the D-Link to log on to Sky Broadband as a modem, and then pass the signal to your wireless router without any shenanigans. It means you don't have to set up port forwarding, and the NAT is ignored. It does mean that your chosen router needs firewall, and any other security settings applied as you see fit. Your router has been assigned an internal address of

I'm using the Asus RT-AC68U. It comes with the same internal IP address as the D-Link. So you need to change this, or else you have two routers using 192.168.1xxx which will cause issues. Connect your PC to the 2nd router, and on the LAN page assign it a different IP address, mine is on

That's it really, D-link logs on to sky, passes unfettered signal to your chosen router, no double NAT. As previous posters have said, it comes with a vulnerable firmware (1.05). 1.06 is available on the D-Link support page, and MUST be installed, in the release notes it states that it patches the vulnerability. If your ISP uses PppoE, it will work fine as a bridge, but not on SKY.
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