Top critical review
11 people found this helpful
on 4 February 2013
This is a substantial tome and quite a good book to have in a collection.
It is not glossy, it is not colourful but it is useful.
You can learn quite a lot from it and find inspiration, which to me is what cookery books are about.
If getting started on building up that shelf of cookery books there is no reason not to have this early on the list.
On the other hand it is just a French hotel cook's take on French hotel cookery, however lauded he might be.
While there is a fair amount of useful information hidden in the text this is balanced by much of what is only of relevance to a hotelier being supplied with a certain quality of produce. This volume shouts, large inner city establishment.
The reader is left to work out when the author is talking through his toque.
I was horrified the first time I saw a French chef salt a fillet steak while searing it but having tasted the meat I understood why he did it. Robuchon's dissertation on lamb is, in my opinion driven by the same necessity. This is in effect ethnic Parisian commercial cookery.
If you already have an extensive collection of cookery books or are into popular contemporary titles you might want to pass.