Top positive review
4 people found this helpful
Truly authentic modern Italian cuisine
on 23 August 2013
Bocca di Lupo, Jacob Kennedy's restaurant in London, serves fine modern Italian cuisine. The flavours and textures of the food are authentically Italian, which is a rarity.
In this book, Bocca, Jacob Kennedy has sought to maintain those exacting standards.
The chapters are divided into Raw, Cured/Sausages, Fried, Pasta, Risotto/Soup, Stews, Grilled/Pan-Fried, Roasts, Sides, Desserts/Biscuits, Frozen Desserts and Drinks/Cards.
The recipes are written in a style which is similar to that used in three of the four bibles of traditional Italian cookery (Il Cucchiaio d'Argento, Il talismano della felicità and Il grande libro della cucina italiana in oltre 5000 ricette regionali: [la più completa raccolta della nostra tradizione gastronomica] (Quest'Italia)), the earlier La scienza in cucina e l'arte di mangiar bene, which I have reviewed separately, being the exception. Where Jacob Kennedy departs from the Italian style, it is to add further instruction for those less familiar with Italian cookery techniques, e.g. "Do not move the polenta during this time."
Moreover, the practical advice extends beyond the kitchen to ingredient selection, such as "Humungous [porcini] should be avoided, as their porous underside will have become slimy and nasty."
The range of recipes spans the country, from the Bicerin (Piedmont) through Tortellini in Brodo (Emilia-Romagna) to Caponata (Sicily). Jacob Kennedy has not shied away from using ingredients common in Italian cookery, but less commonly used or often underrated in the United Kingdom, such as squid ink, tripe, bone marrow and sweetbreads. I was delighted to find his sublime Sanguinaccio, a dessert-style blood pudding made with pig's blood, Marsala, dark chocolate and pine nuts, on page 382.
As befits a restauranteur whose now also has a gelateria (Gelupo), there are also several ice cream recipes.