Top critical review
12 people found this helpful
Not as good as the reviews
on 8 September 2009
I am a climber whose climbed indoors for a couple years and done a few outdoor climbs and looking to expand my experience and develop my knowledge base. This book just didn't live up to my expectations and I regret that I didn't go for the other book I saw in a climbing store, as it is out of stock.
This book reminds me of a climbing lesson I took, which also dissapointed me. The instructor seemed to know what to do, but was unable to answer many of my questions and couldn't explain why things were done in a particular way. This book is a lot like that. I think it relies on the idea that the reader is very experienced or will have another very experienced person to answer these questions. Discussions with slightly more and less experienced climbers suggest I am not alone in my opinion.
Here are a few examples of what is just wrong with this book; The description of "Toe Hooks" says "Toe hooks around edges can be used as a type of layaway enabling the climber to make longer reaches ..." or a "Dropped knee is also commonly used on overhanging ground to faciliate [a] high reach" This lack of explanation is the same at more advanced levels as well, but these were easy examples. "Quick draws may be from 10-30cm long depending on the nature of the climbing", so any suggestions for what to use where? I got one buddy who thinks short on this climb, another who says long and both are experienced and well convinced they are correct. I am pretty sure many of the listed "climbing calls" are wrong. First the "leader" is "climbing", then the "second" is "safe" tying off at the top? This really makes me worry about what else in this book might have passed the editors.
Now, I could go and look on the internet for more information on each topic, but am sorely dissapointed that this book just doesn't bother. Why mention it if it isn't going to be explained. The reason is that after reading this, the instructor will show the move, and the text is the kind of thing that can be used in a multiple choice quiz.
The book mentions everything, explains very little and after having it for two weeks find myself more frustrated. The only thing is does give me is a few new terms I can go look up on google for some proper explanation. Sorry, but it is just a very pretty book where someone just wrote a good outline, then filled in each title with a random blurb. It covers so much and says so little.