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on 27 November 2010
David Sax writes beautifully balanced sentences full of sharp insight. . ""With an army of restaurant consultants and designers at their disposal, the developers of Las Vegas casinos have managed to conquer the last stronghold of independent eating in America, turning the upper end of the food chain into another packaged concept." Or try this slice of writing straight from the steamer. "The narrow space between the counters became a gauntlet of doom, as hip checks and arm grapples met brazen countermen who dared walk into another man's space." This book is so well written that even a vegetarian could enjoy it. The author loves the world of the deli. He writes with sensitivity. He is an investigative journalist who uncovers the light secrets. After 45 years living in London, I thought I knew everything there was to know about London delis. I was wrong. No London writer has discovered as much as Sax. I never thought to read again of the Nosh Bar, Phil Rabin's and Carol's - the Great Windmill Street legends - or learn that a deli-man who had worked at all three and more could be found in Edgware at a place called B&K. Sax is a Salt Beef Bard and Poet of Pastrami. Help yourself - you'll be going back for more.
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