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The River Cafe Cookbook Hardcover – 4 May 1995
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"Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers are cooks of unquestioned skill and dedication. River Cafe Cook Book defined a new era in the worship of food-as-lifestyle accessory. That alone guarantees a place in history" (Guardian Weekend) --This text refers to the Paperback edition.
Features the exquisite but simple Italian country cookery THE RIVER CAFE' which has become one of London's most innovative, influential restaurants.
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Top customer reviews
Question is, do I really need a full page recipe to tell me that fresh buttered pasta tastes great when generously scattered with white truffle shavings? (Like most of the recipes here, this comes with a full-page picture, in this case the standard `white truffle being shaved over pasta' pic that gets printed along with every magazine article about truffles). Or six sides of variations on a basic crespu?
Some of the recipes are oddly overspecific (presumably to maintain the ideologically pure `italian' flavour): On grounds of personal taste I disagree with the noodle recipe (which is fine, but, with much work, will produce noodles pretty much indistinguishable from good noodles bought from a shop, in which case why make them yourself?), but nevertheless think it is unnecessary to specify the flour be typo-00 (I think, I forget the technical designation for canonical italian noodle flour) - different flours, different noodles (I usually use ordinary strong plain flour supplemented with a quarter semolina, and eggs and yolks as available), but they all taste good given experience. Similarly, they specify `Chianti' for red wine for cooking: I challenge anyone to be able to distinguish reliably a random 10DM Chianti from any other young tannic red wine, after it's been cooked and reduced. More problematically, they also specify ciabata as source of breadcrumbs, etc., of choice, but ciabata, at least most that I have ever seen, is positively inappropriate for kitchen purposes - the crumb structure is far too soft.
A few recipes look technically questionable. In their recipe for Girolles Provencal (they don't call it that, but that is what it is) with noodles, they don't tell you to disgorge the girolles first, which will result, I suspect, in either very rubbery, or *very* wet girolles.
Also this book is just a collection of disconnected recipes, but this sort of food is specifically not a collection of formal recipes, but an attitude of mind.