Madeleine Vionnet Hardcover – 1 Dec 1997
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"The book comprises 400 photographs, 38 original dress patterns and interviews with the designer herself. Colorful visuals showcase Vionnet's preference for Grecian-style dresses and the bias cut, the latter on display in one of her black silk, satin-backed crepe dresses, which she fitted with ripples at the hems and matched with a high neckline. Vionnet loved flow in dresses -- so did her famous clients like Marlene Dietrich and Joan Crawford -- and she was famously opposed to corsets. 'I have never been able to tolerate corsets myself, so why should I inflict them on other women, ' she has been quoted as saying." --New York Times T Style Blog" --This text refers to an alternate Hardcover edition.
About the Author
Betty Kirke has been a fashion designer and costume restorer at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. She lives in New York. Issey Miyake is a fashion designer known for his distinctive use of fabric.
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She was called the "Queen of the bias cut" and "the architect among dressmakers", Vionnet is best known today for her elegant Grecian style dresses and for popularising the bias cut within the fashion world, she is credited with inspiring a number of contemporary designers.
Vionnet created free-flowing, modern gowns that earned her an enduring spot in fashion history. Alongside Chanel, Vionnet is credited with a move away from stiff, formalised clothing. But unlike Chanel, Vionnet had little appetite for self-promotion; her retirement in 1940 marginalised her contribution and name in the wider fashion movement.
Vionnet eschewed corsets, padding, stiffening, and anything that distorted the natural curves of a woman's body, like the great Madame Gres she became known for clothes that accentuated the natural female form. Her style changed relatively little over her career, although it became a little more fitted in the 1930’s.
As an expert couturier, Vionnet knew that textiles cut on the bias could be draped to match the curves of a woman's body and express fluidity of motion, particularly dresses that were luxurious and sensual but also simple and modern. Although her designs looked simple they were in fact very complex to make. Characteristic Vionnet styles that clung to and moved with the wearer included the handkerchief dress, cowl neck and halter top.Read more ›