Fresh Paperback – 1 Oct 2010
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In "Fresh", Susanne Freidberg chronicles how expectations about beef, fish, milk, eggs, fruit and vegetables have shifted over the past century. Freshness means more than the absence of biochemical decay. It is bound up with our notions of purity, nutrition and beauty. And these ideas have adapted to the rise of a technology that most of us now take for granted--refrigeration.--Jascha Hoffman"Nature" (06/18/2009)
Fascinating and meticulously documented...Even as some of us beat a path to the farmers market or CSA, the history [Freidberg] describes affects the selections available and their path to our refrigerator. She gives us much to ponder and presents it in a highly readable volume largely devoid of value judgments. I learned a lot. Give it a read. It will indeed give you a fresh look at your food.--Janet Majure"foodperson.com" (06/08/2009)
Few can read this thought-provoking book without thinking that although the benefits of modern food production are real, they are bought at an extravagant price. We could, if we tried, be more sensible in our demands on farmers, more resistant to the lures of advertisers, more thoughtful about the origins of our food, and more alert to the effects food production has on the environment and the people who produce it. Ms. Freidberg's book is a good place to start because it unravels the tangle of science and economics that puts food on our tables. Readers will find that the word "fresh" will never be quite the same again.--Claire Hopley"Washington Times" (05/26/2009)
"Fresh" paints a fascinating picture of our changing views of perishable food...It is the historical detail of "Fresh" that throws so much light on why we now eat the way we do...Freidberg writes elegantly and goes beyond the technical to draw out this paradox at the heart of today's culture of consumption: we have ended up with a food system that promotes both novelty and nostalgia, obsolescence and shelf life, indulgence and discipline.--Felicity Lawrence"The Guardian" (05/02/2009)
Freidberg--tracking the movement of beef, eggs, fruit, vegetables, milk and fish from source to table--shows how technology, abetted by modern public relations, has changed the way we eat...Freidberg writes with wit and clarity, and her sense of humor extends to her choice of illustrations.--Aram Bakshian Jr."Wall Street Journal" (04/25/2009)
Six categories of food are placed under the microscope in this survey of shifting cultural values. Beef, eggs, vegetables, fruit, milk, and fish are each examined in Freidberg's extensively researched and engagingly written account.--Lara Killian"popmatters.com" (07/10/2009)
[A] meticulously researched social history of our relationship with perishable food.--P.D. Smith"The Guardian" (11/06/2010)
All in all fascinating and clear evidence for the protean nature of freshness... By the end of the book, the reader is acutely aware of the point that [Freidberg] reinforces in her brief epilogue, namely that freshness comes at a price, that there is no utopia of freshness, and that the ability to enjoy fresh foods is a privilege of the wealthy parts of the world...For anyone who is interested in figuring out the basic ideas that inspire contemporary eating and food production, "Fresh" is essential reading.--Rachel Laudan"rachellaudan.com" (08/05/2009)
French fruit farmers, Argentine cattle ranchers, Mexican dairy farmers hidden from view in pastoral Vermont and Hong Kong seafood aficionados all enter into this lively and edifying account. The book includes a sweeping survey of how ideas of freshness vary culturally, but have invariably been influenced by urbanization and globalization--and by technological innovations that preserve the illusion of straight-from-the-source freshness...It is a lively, engaging book.--Prashanth A K"Times Higher Education" (09/03/2009)
"Fresh" is an engagingly original way of looking at food history, both thought-provoking and entertaining.--Mark Kurlansky, author of "The Big Oyster: History on the Half Shell"
In this lively and compelling book, Freidberg unearths the secrets within our refrigerators as she explores what is natural and unnatural about freshness. How have commerce and industry shaped our seasonless abundance? Where did the fruit grow? How far have the beef and fish traveled? Whose labor and risks do the vegetables hide? "Fresh" shows why such questions matter as it reveals how our notions and expectations of fresh food changed over the last century. It challenges us to look differently at our food.--Pamela Walker Laird, author of "Pull" and "Advertising Progress"
Freidberg opens the fridge on a world few have considered: how the advent of cold storage subverted ideas of freshness, shifted power from consumers and producers to middlemen, and virtually eliminated seasonality. We all like lettuce in February, but Freidberg's ingenious and spirited "Fresh" serves to remind us of its technological, environmental, and social cost.--Elizabeth Royte, author of "Bottlemania" and "Garbage Land"
In this highly readable and sophisticated book, Freidberg traces the ambiguous history of freshness in food. Despite its 'natural' associations, freshness has been produced, engineered, marketed, and valued in a variety of ways over the course of the last century. Broadly accessible, richly comparative, and written with flair, "Fresh" will appeal to a wide audience.--Julie Guthman, author of "Agrarian Dreams: The Paradox of Organic Farming in California"
This is the right book at the right time. Freidberg provides a masterful account of the complex web of labor practices, technological innovations, corporate controls and consumer choices that have produced the items that confront us each time we open the refrigerator door. "Fresh" successfully uses the stuff of everyday life to explain complex historical, cultural, and social phenomena. After reading this compelling work, you'll never look at a carton of eggs the same way again.--Carolyn de la PeNa, University of California, Davis
In "Fresh," Susanne Freidberg chronicles how expectations about beef, fish, milk, eggs, fruit and vegetables have shifted over the past century. Freshness means more than the absence of biochemical decay. It is bound up with our notions of purity, nutrition and beauty. And these ideas have adapted to the rise of a technology that most of us now take for granted--refrigeration.--Jascha Hoffman"Nature" (06/18/2009)
It is the historical detail of Fresh that throws so much light on why we now eat the way we do. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.See all Product Description
Top Customer Reviews
While focusing on sourcing of fresh food this book is really about the food supply chain that has developed over the last two centuries. A theme is the Locavore culture which is the move at this time to resource food supplies from local areas. Although the word Locavore topped the hit list of the American Oxford Dictionary in 2007, the concept when reading this book that this going to provide nourishment for the projected population of the world beggars belief. Sounds more like flower power!
The book gives the reader insight into how the array of food stuffs seen on today's supermarket shelves is obtained and how this supply evolved. A key theme is that such a service and abundance has depended and still does depend on cheap labor but more importantly labor which has no access to alternative work.
The need and impact of marketing is consistently portrayed as the means where by foods from afar, where they are produced in abundance and cheaper is accepted. Advertising is the fertilizer of the soil of spending.
Impressive insight is the scale of the early ice industry, the cold revolution -rail road cars loaded with tons of ice at stop over points across the USA. The early resistance to refrigeration from those with other vested interests is surprising in the face of the short comings of using ice.
The author illustrates the implementation of the supply of fresh food by choosing to chronicle:
Beef, which originally was delivered fresh by walking to market leading to the need to fattening up stock with corn in mid west stations. The success of this led to a large USA export market even ferrying live cows across the Atlantic to meet hungry, first industrial nation, Britain.Read more ›
Most Helpful Customer Reviews on Amazon.com (beta)
In FRESH: A PERISHABLE HISTORY, Susanne Freidberg opens the refrigerator door on a fascinating aspect of our modern American food culture: how the search for "fresh" food has shaped what we buy, cook, and eat. We take the refrigerator so much for granted that it's almost impossible to imagine what eating was like before--and what it is like now for those who can't afford to participate.
But we didn't always have ice on demand and mechanical refrigeration has been around for only a century. In her first chapter, Freidberg's first chapter establishes the technical context for her discussion of the extraordinary changes that have taken place in our diets and eating habits in the last hundred years. The "cold revolution" changed the geography of fresh food, she says, making it possible for perishable foodstuffs to travel around the globe and for seasonally-available fruits, vegetables, and meat to appear on our tables year-round. Refrigeration gives us the ability to consume very old food and still happily imagine it as "fresh."
Take meat, for instance. As hunters, humans have always eaten wild meat, but Freidberg points out that eating domesticated animals has been, until recently, a "seasonal and regional luxury." Most people ate plant-based diets with the occasional addition of locally grown and processed meat. But after refrigerated railcars (chilled first with ice, then mechanically) made it possible to deliver meat from the meat-packing center of Chicago to consumers on the East Coast, "fresh" beef became less of a luxury and more of a perceived necessity. "Mobile meat," dependent on cross-country and global transport, convinced consumers "not only that fresh beef could come from far away, but also that their main relationship to meat--and indeed, to all once-living foods--was as consumers." This helped to create the disconnect that now plagues us, "between cities and their pastured hinterlands, between shoppers and their neighborhood butchers, and between people who bought the meat and those who dressed it in faraway slaughterhouses."
But refrigeration didn't affect just meat, and it has created other hidden effects that we don't often think about.
* The "cold chain" allows us to have fresh eggs throughout the year and permits egg producers to create larger and larger egg-producing factories with detrimental impacts both on the local environment and on local small-farm competitors.
* Refrigeration (enhanced by huge industry-funded marketing efforts) encourages us to desire beautiful if bland and tasteless out-of-season fruit. Advertising has taught us that "beauty is a mark of freshness," a beauty that is rarely more than skin deep.
* Refrigeration enables us to enjoy fresh vegetables without going to the work of growing them ourselves, and disguises the "hidden dependence" of growers on cheap, often undocumented migrant labor. The value we place fresh vegetables, Freidberg says, has "contributed to the historic undervaluing of the human labor that produces them."
FRESH makes one thing abundantly clear. Our contemporary American food culture is totally dependent on refrigeration. Without it, we would have no meat, eggs, milk, vegetables, fruit, or fish, except what we could grow ourselves or purchase locally, for immediate consumption. As Freidberg points out, refrigeration enables us to enjoy a richly varied and much safer diet. But because of it, we have become a culture of consumers dangerously removed from the work of managing our food and suffering from the ills created by overconsumption of meat, the injustice of cheap labor, and the depletion of natural resources. The "Cold Revolution" has created a comfortable world that may be too costly to sustain.
As a food-focused writer and participant in our current local food movement myself, I find the historical perspective of this book especially valuable. Just as it is important to look back, and ask how we got to where we are, it is important to see our own "movement" in the context of a constant history of food "movements" which in their moment seemed both wonderful and dubious. Part of the current interest in eating locally has to do with freshness as a quality that claims a kind of moral superiority over everything else (though there's also new interest in the old forms of food preservation such as canning and pickling). Freidberg's book invites us to recognize that our fascination with freshness is not a simple return to nature but is a new phase in a long history made possible by culture, technology, marketing, business, and labor.
The book's focus is mostly the US and Europe. It discusses a wide array of related topics, such as labor, political interference, while focusing on several food categories. The most interesting chapter is the last, on milk. Refrigeration meant that dairy cattle didn't have to be located very near market cities, and changed the geography of production and marketing.
Definitely a worthwhile read.
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