Climbing Everest: The Complete Writings of George Leigh Mallory Paperback – 21 Feb 2013
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'Compelling pieces.' Stephen Venables, Mail on Sunday 'Invaluable... [a] surprise it has taken so long to see the light of day.' National Geographic 'Expressive and emotionally literate.' Scottish Mountaineer
About the Author
George Leigh Mallory's writings inspired distinguished literary mountaineers such as Joe Simpson, Ranulph Fiennes, Jon Krakauer. Born in 1886, he died a few days short of his 38th birthday, while making a summit attempt with his companion, Andrew Irvine. Born in Cheshire, he worked as a teacher in Godalming. Foreword by Peter Gillman, a former Sunday Times journalist and one of the most prolific writers on mountaineering and author of the prize-winning standard biography of Mallory.
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Top Customer Reviews
Peter Gillman the author of The Wildest Dream: Mallory - His Life and Conflicting Passions has realised a lifelong ambition, to bring together and publish the works of George Leigh Mallory. Not an epic tome by any stretch of the imagination as Mallory has only six published articles written for two of the more eminent climbing publications of the day. However if you seek an insight into the man who became part of the biggest mountaineering mystery ever known then you will not be disappointed, for his dedication and tenacity abounds from each page and will keep you in a sometimes icy grip, a grip you won't want relinquished. This book will demand your attention!
Suffice to say that Mount Everest dominates this book, however the attempt on Mont Maudit 1916 and Mont Blanc 1921 provide a captivating interlude. The descriptive ability of Mallory will take your breath away and even those with the dourest of imaginations will almost feel the Himalayan wind buffeting them as they read. I was most interested in the detailed accounts of the reconnaissance of Everest and the logistical nightmares of the day, the coping with altitude sickness while dealing with sometimes wayward porters was an eye opener. What he wouldn't have given for a helicopter or even a jeep!!
If you have any interest in the often quoted but seldom understood George Leigh Mallory then this book is an absolute must have. So wrap up warm, grab a brew and enjoy.
This book is not just a description of his 3 expeditions to Everest. It is everything he ever wrote including articles on the philosophy of climbing which will appeal to climbers today. Nor is it a complete account of his Everest trips either, as the description of the 1931 expedition researching routes to Everest from Tibet, when Nepal was closed and Tibet accessible, unlike the situation more recently, is much longer and more complete than the accounts of the other two unsuccessful expeditions when he was probably capable of reaching the summit and delayed by weather and bad luck including the final expedition in 1934 when he died giving rise to suspicions that he may possibly have reached the summit 18 years ahead of Hillary. The book also includes some monochrome photos taken by him with a full plate camera high on the glacier. An excellent read but not his complete story - only what he wrote himself.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
Bought as a present for a close friend and he was delighted as he found it to be both interesting and informative.Published on 21 July 2013 by Terry
Very good book if you are interested in mallory. Like any book, i would like to have read more about his private lifePublished on 23 Jun. 2013 by S. Lilley
This part of a birthday gift to my husband from our daughter his birthday is Xmas eve so it will not be unwrapped until thenPublished on 10 Dec. 2012 by P A Wise