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The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest Paperback – 6 Sep 2002
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Boukreev may not have had people skills but he risked his own life several times saving others' lives , guides and climbers from the other expedition did not offer their assistance, although they were possibly in no fit state to be fair.
I do feel that Jon Krakauer was somewhat unfair on him, possibly due to his feelings of guilt. Most of the fatalities were on Krakauer's team, all of Boukreev's clients survived...says quite a lot really. But read both accounts and make your own minds up.
Into Thin Air and The Climb are both amazing accounts, must reads even for people with little interest in climbing. I can't begin to imagine what it was like to be on Everest in that storm but these books have given me as good an idea as possible.
Fantastic. Am going to read it all over again now.
As to Anatoli, I think he comes across as a professional climber having to deal with a commercial climbing expedition, in the best way he could and trying to help as much as he could, I cannot disagree with any decisions he took and he is the sort of person you want on an expedition, self reliant but a team player as well.
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Bill (retired mountain guide)