Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders (Amazing Stories) Hardcover – 28 Sep 2012
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"So accessible and diverting."--The Times Literary Supplement
From the Inside Flap
HIGHER THAN A HIGH FIVE
Machado saw his friend and, skimming the surface of the sea, put out his left hand. At the same time, Slater instinctively did likewise. The pair high fived in the middle of the biggest surf contest in the world... The roar of the crowd could be heard for miles.
OH MY GOD (TAKE 1)
Hamilton recalls hearing him shouting: "Don't let go!," and reckons other voices were also screaming that discretion was the better part of valour. But Hamilton was always going to let go.
DR SARAH AND THE MEANING OF SURFING
How blessed were we, to have a flawless left-hander to ourselves at a break that would normally be overrun? And what a break, too: Spot G is backed by granite cliffs, its water is crystal clear, dolphins and seals are regulars in the line-up and the ambience is other-worldly and ancient.
ED'S LEFT Ed barely gave thought to the meaning of this particular session. The whoops of the onlookers amped him as much as the waves. But then it dawned on him: had anyone ever ridden a wave here before?See all Product description
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I did feel that there could have been more surfing photographs included, but all in all I think he will enjoy reading it (another of his passions!)
Alex Wade is one of the few writers who is able to bring to life the bliss and frustration of surfing. Alex draws out not only the beauty and pleasure of surfing but also the magical qualities of the ocean in all its moods and the heroes, misfits and extras that populate our obsession.
I love this book, thanks Alex