Surf Science: An actual decent book for Surfing,
This review is from: Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing (Paperback)
This books has been one of the most enjoyable reads I've had in a long while on a technical subject. Really well structured with enough simplification to make it accessible to all but there is still the background detail such as equations provided in separate boxes, should you be feeling keen.
The title is self explanatory, it provides an excellent overview of the hugely complex mechanisms at work to provide us with waves we can surf. I thought that the authors did a great job of building up the story and explaining the various components that combine to provide the weather patterns necessary to produce waves. They also explain how the waves tend to travel and organise after being generated, so you understand when the best waves may reach your break from a given weather system. There are also chapters explaining what happens as the waves get closer to the coast and how the shape of coastline and seabed will dictate how the waves ultimately break.
If you want to understand when the next good swell should be coming and why, get this book.