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The Clarkson of the food world
on 30 December 2009
Gill's patronising, middle class arrogance and his faux belligerence I can forgive. His over-use of similes I cannot.
It's a real shame, as Gill knows his stuff and there are some genuinely interesting and witty articles here. A pity then that his writing becomes increasingly annoying: dishes are as salty as "a fat bloke's cycling shorts" and sauces are "the colour of a stripper's knickers and the consistency of a politician's promise". Describing kedgeree as the colour of "Chinese cowardice" is a cheap shot for the sake of cheap laugh. Worse, it does not tell us what the dish actually looked like (I'm guessing some shade of yellow). Lazy writing.
The kedgeree dish is from a lunch that he shared with Jeremy Clarkson, the only man to outdo Gill in his use of contrived and convoluted similes. The appendix references Clarkson on no less than 12 pages throughout the book. Enough said.