on 11 May 2014
This is the 2014 version of the Samsung mid-range TVs. If you are upgrading from standard definition (SD) TVs, you will be very impressed with the new TV watching experience that comes with new smart TVs. You will find yourself zapping between YouTube, newspapers, apps, TV channels, your mobile phone gallery, and your PC hard disc. I have spent 4 days with this TV so far, and here are my views on each category;
The picture quality:
This is ridiculously good. It is good to a degree that now I can see the details and imperfections of the makeup the male actors are wearing. Now all these macho stars look like soap opera actors. There are TV series I have been watching for years. This is the first time I saw these pictures in HD quality on a 48'' screen. Now it feels like I am watching totally different productions. The soap opera effect is a problem new smart TV owners are experiencing. However, after exploring some menu options, I am now totally happy with what I see on my screen. The HD picture quality is so realistically good, that it gives some sense of 3D viewing on its own. Some other reviewers elsewhere say the TV has issues with darker black range of colors. They say the TV struggles showing the detail in deliberately dark scenes.I cannot say I can confirm that the said problem exists at all. Particularly the nature documentaries will blow your mind.
This is impressive for a flat screen TV. Most buyers of the new smart TVs argue that what you will be getting on a slim built TV can only be awful. The salesmen in the shop will also try to persuade you to get a soundbar with your shopping. My recommendation is to take the TV home and try how it sounds in your living room without being biased by any advice by others. I know some people will have very high expectations about the audio performances of the devices they are getting, but if you are upgrading from a smaller size flat screen TV, and if your previous device was sounding OK, this one will sound much much better. I can clearly distinguish stereo sound separation, basses and lower range sound.
Smart TV functions:
I am still exploring these. At the time of writing this review, there was no BBC i-player app (Edit: Now the BBC i-player is working). Last year this time, the people were complaining similarly about the lack of certain apps on their 2013 Samsung smart TVs, but since these were all resolved as some software updates have arrived. It seems Samsung is generally doing better than for example LG, in terms of providing a good selection of apps to their users. The interface is easy to use. Unfortunately the user manual looks incomplete at best. I have heard similar complaints from other Samsung smart TV buyers. The user manual is not good.
Hardware you are getting:
2014 Samsung TVs come with a pointer style remote in addition to a standard remote. This pointer style remote seems to be Samsung's answer to LG's magic remote. When I was trying to decide which TV to buy, I was attracted to the LG's remote, because all reviewers said it was better than the Samsung's remote offering. Now it seems, Samsung did the same trick they often do to Apple phones, this time to an LGs innovative remote. I must admit this partially persuaded me to buy the Samsung option instead of the LG.
This years H6400 series TVs come with a quad-core CPU, so this should improve your overall smart TV experience. This was another selling point for me when considering last years F6400 series Samsung TVs are now much cheaper. This year's Samsung option also comes with 48'' screen size, when the last year one was 46''.
I like this, although I am not sure how often I will be using it. Most 3D films available as Blue-Ray, were on the cinemas and I have already seen them. I am a freeview TV user. I understand this summer onwards, there will be some 3D freeview TV broadcast. I think this will start with Wimbledon 2014 men's and women's finals.
Before you make your decision, you should make some background reading about active and passive 3D technology. Samsung's come with the active 3D technology while LG's with the passive. It should be a personal preference issue to decide between the two. There are benefits and limitations of each alternative.
Value for Money:
This will come back to what competitors are offering for similar price range, and how important the new features for you compared to last year's now cheaper models.
At the time of buying this TV, it was £699. The last year's option was £100 cheaper with dual core processor and 2'' smaller screen and without the pointer style remote. This, to me was enough reason to buy the 2014 model. LG seems like a good alternative, but I did not like the gray interface which comes with this brand. I simply think Samsung has a more refined and nicer looks in terms of both the exteriors and the user interface compared to the LG.
on 20 July 2014
>(Changes were made to the HD source settings below on 14/12/15 using firmware version 2790)
All the technical specifications for this tv as well as the most recent firmware update can be located on the Samsung website here:
samsung . com/uk/support/model/UE48H6400AKXXU
I bought this tv back in July of 2014 and its absolutely phenomenal! After searching high and low for decent calibration settings and joining forums on various sites I found everyone to be thoroughly unhelpful and unnecessarily cryptic cockwombles.
After wasting countless hours trawling through reviews of people gloating about how good THEIR screens looked after they had finished calibrating but unwilling to share their settings, I thought i'd help others out and share all my own calibrated settings.
Stay clear of both avforums and whathifi, 99% of the people on those websites are overly sarcastic and generally obnoxious. Ask them for advice and they will happily tear you and your opinions to shreds. They love nothing more than questioning absolutely every comment you make, belittling the common folk and mocking people. They spend all day banging on about the size of their speakers and bragging about the overly expensive hardware they've got.
They're no better than spoiled schoolyard bullies, ganging up on newcomers. They were calling people that dont have dedicated bluray players "scrubs". I personally use a PS3, as do many others. I'm not flush with cash and I live by my means, I bought my PS3 as a cheap bluray player at the end of the day. The bluray player in my PS4 unfortunately sucks balls and the player controls are awful.
Its cringeworthy reading through their threads, its almost like a competition for them to see how much nonsensical technobabble they can cram into a paragraph, in a lame attempt to impress everyone. Harping on about uniformity, black crushing, crosstalk, vertical array banding, ghosting, clouding, torch-lighting, DSE, look how many "technical" words I know! the list goes on. Its a tv ffs, get a grip and enjoy it for what it is.(This is the point they smash the thumbs down button but I dont care, i think being honest and helpful to people is more important than a "Like").
The main issue with people on those forums is that they are more concerned with what other people think. A frequent example is if someone says that the god awful "Movie Mode" needs activating for the best possible picture. They will blindly turn it on, even if it looks crap, simply because everyone else says they should have it on, no logical reasoning whatsoever. Personally, my eyes aren't painted on and anyone with an ounce of sense can see that "Movie Mode" simply looks bad, regardless of the tv you try it on.
Despite dozens of people trying my settings and getting amazing results and considering the wealth of useful and more importantly factual information in this review, the only people that dont find my efforts useful and give it a thumbs-down are the scum from those forums, they're pathetic.
I dont understand why they consider it such a frigging taboo to share settings, they need to chill out. I guess its because they would rather charge someone an arm and a leg, instead of simply explaining or sharing settings.
Regardless of what i've watched, be it the "Dark Knight" films, Gravity or Monsters Inc, I see all levels of detail from inky black to brilliant white. The settings below will allow for very impressive, natural and realistic looking images. Blurays and HD sources will look ridiculous.
For anyone wondering, the tv can remember the different settings from one source to another, so you dont have to keep changing the settings based on what you are watching. Think of each signal "source" as having its own profile with unique settings. You just have to make sure that you have "Current Source" chosen beside "Apply Picture Mode" option.
Anyways my settings for HD, 3D, Built-in Freeview (FV) and Standard Definition (SD) modes are as followed, with an explanation of why I have selected certain things. If i havent specified alternatives it means particular settings are identical, it should all hopefully be straightforward to follow though.
Samsung TV Settings:
Ideal settings for HD, 3D, Built-in freeview (FV) and Standard Definition (SD) Content (I'd use the "SD" settings for Sky and Virgin sources):
TV firmware version as at 14/12/15 - version 2790
Picture Mode: Standard (All Sources)
Backlight: HD 20 / 3D 20 / FV 19 / SD 18
Contrast: HD 100 / 3D 72 / FV 81 / SD 71
Brightness: HD 50 / 3D 43 / FV 46 / SD 44
Sharpness: HD 16 / 3D 35 / FV 16 / SD 15
Colour: HD 46 / 3D 46 / FV 49 / SD 52
Tint: G46/R54 (All Sources, the green/red balance need adjusting if you are using my suggested colour settings)
(Press the down arrow button on your tv remote when you get to the "Tint (G/R)" option, this will reveal all the other settings you will need to change)
Apply Picture Mode: Current Source <<<<< This is extremely important.
Picture Size: Screen Fit (or 16:9 if "Screen Fit" is greyed out)
Dynamic Contrast: HD off / 3D Low / FV off / SD off
Black Tone: HD off / 3D off / FV Dark / SD Dark
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB Only Mode: Off
Colour Space: Custom
Red - R52, G0, B0
Green - R23, G48, B7
Blue - R0, G10, B50
Yellow - R56, G 49, B0
Cyan - R0, G54, B53
Magenta - R50, G0, B55
White Balance (2 point):
Red Offset +3
Green Offset 0
Blue Offset +3
Red Gain +7
Green Gain 0
Blue Gain +3
10 point White Balance On (If available):
Level 10% 0 / 0 / -50
Level 20% 0 / 0 / -3
Level 30% 0 / 0 / 0
Level 40% 0 / 0 / +7
Level 50% +2 / 0 / +8
Level 60% 0 / 0 / +5
Level 70% 0 / 0 / 0
Level 80% 0 / 0 / 0
Level 90% 0 / 0 / 0
Level 100% +1 / 0 / +4
Gamma: HD 0 / 3D +1 / FV 0 / SD +2
Motion Lighting: Off
Colour Tone: Standard
Digital Clean View: HD Low / 3D off / FV off / SD off
MPEG Noise Filter: HD Low / 3D off / FV off / SD off
HDMI Black Level: HD Normal (unavailable in 3D, FV and SD)
Film Mode: HD and 3D off (FV and SD "Auto1" - If standard definition, such as channels received over the air and most Sky/Virgin broadcasts)
Motion Plus: HD, 3D & FV "Custom" :
Blur Reduction: 10
Judder Reduction: 8
LED Clear Motion: Off (all sources)
BD Internet: "Allow"
BD/DVD Cinema Conversion: "Automatic"
BD/DVD Upscaler: "Normal"
BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI): "Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr" for TVs, "RGB" for PC Monitors
BD 1080p 24Hz Output: "Automatic"
Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI): "On".
RGB Full Range (HDMI): "Full"
This tv fully supports "Full RGB", even though it isn't a bluray standard. This means that the full range (colour space) from absolute black to the whitest white is a bit larger than normal. So instead of seeing just a black object on screen you can actually see any hidden fine detail in dark scenes.
A HD video should conform to a particular standard, this is referred to as "REC709" and this particular color gamut effectively sets absolute black at a value of 16 out of a maximum of 235. This means there are 219 gradients from black to white.
A typical video game console can actually display the full RGB color gamut (as can a monitor hooked up to a desktop computer) which sets black at 0 (instead of 16) and white at 255 (instead of 235), which is why the image appears to have much more contrast because there is more information between the deepest blacks and whitest whites. There are an additional 20 different gradients visible on this tv screen by turning RGB colour mode to "full".
To prove that this tv supports the full RGB range you can download a test card here:
www . nicolaspeople . com/ch3rokeesblog/wp-content/uploads/2008/01/fullrgb_test.jpg
If you can see the two top left squares on your tv when "Full" RGB is selected it means that the tv supports Full RGB. If you cant see all 28 squares regardless of how much you raise or lower the brightness it means the tv doesnt support the "Full" RGB range so you will need to keep the RGB setting as "Limited".
(With these above settings I see no abnormalities using the various calibration discs ive used.)
For anyone confused about the different settings for different "Sources"-
When you have a PS3/PS4 source on screen for example, just stick with the HD settings, even if you are watching DVDs on the console. I've split the settings between Freeview, and SD because Ive found that the channels I receive via the built-in freeview look considerably better than the channels I receive via my Virgin TiVo box. As the built-in freeview also includes about 12 HD channels too, I found that I could get a much better picture than using my seperate "SD" settings that I'd only suggest using for Sky or Virgin channels. This is because a majority of Sky and Virgin channels are in Standard Definition.
I watched "Dead Mans Shoes" via my external hard drive plugged into the USB slot on the tv and applied my "HD" settings to that "Source" because I'll most likely be watching HD content via a USB stick / external drive for a majority of the time.
Ok, reasons for some of the above settings:
"Picture Mode" is set to "Standard", I honestly dont understand how anyone can say "Movie Mode" (glaucoma mode) looks the most natural or how a director intended for their film to be viewed. It just turns whatever you are watching, into a yellowy orange blurred mess, as if you're looking through a layer of clingfilm and as if every scene is set in a desert. Its like changing the "temperature" of the tv from "Normal" to "Warm 2" and lowering the brightness.
After applying all my settings, swap between "Standard" and "Movie Mode" then ask yourself which looks better, its obviously the Non"Movie Mode" settings. Put "Ice Age" or "Frozen" on and check to see if the snow still looks white, it clearly doesnt, despite what the self proclaimed "experts" suggest. Both animations look like they were set in the Australian outback if you activate "Movie Mode" lol.
Sharpness is at 35 for HD and 3D content as this appears to be the maximum sharpness you can go up to before the image starts displaying strange artifacts & jagged edges on curved objects on screen.
In 3D mode ive had the sharpness as high as 70 and it still looks great, although the excessive sharpness creates edges around the different objects in the foreground and background, it just makes the image looks really odd, "Little Big Planet" springs to mind. In summary, i'd recommend setting sharpness no higher than 35 for HD and 3D viewing.
Some reviewers suggested having sharpness set at 0 so I tried it. It made my pin sharp realistic looking photos from the top of the Rockerfeller building in New York look like I was seeing the same photos through a few layers of clingfilm, all detail is lost if you put the sharpness at 0, so i wouldnt recommend it. 50 used to be the Neutral setting for Samsung tvs but this point appears to have been lowered to about 20.
Colour is at 46 (for HD sources) because if you increase it any higher colours start to slightly bleed into each other & it doesn't look realistic. If you think your colours look too dull I suggest watching "Speed Racer" on bluray. Its a daft film but I guarantee you wont have ever seen anything more colourful & vibrant, then you'll see that setting colour at 46 is more than sufficient for any film.
Backlight & contrast aren't quiet at maximum because I found that you actually lose fine detail in bright areas on the screen by having the settings cranked up to full. It also increases eye strain having the backlight set to its highest setting. The backlight is set at 20 in 3D mode only, as the lenses on the glasses dim the light from the tv quite a bit.
Tint is spot on at 50/50, I used a blue screen filter & carefully checked Red, Green, Blue , Yellow , Cyan & Magenta to ensure that none of these colours started to look like each other when the blue filter was active.
Gamma is at 0 (for non 3D sources) otherwise you lose detail in dark scenes during films.
Set the "colour space" & "white balance" exactly as I have done. These settings create the most accurate true to life colours.
Digital Clean View & MPEG Noise filter are set at "Low" because I found these work the best. They remove the awful unintentional film grain you often notice in films. The worst thing I have ever seen for film grain is Expendables 2, it was absolutely unwatchable on my previous Samsung 6000 series tv. They also went over the top with the film grain in "300" on bluray, the DVD looks amazing in comparison.
The only time ive found film grain acceptable was when watching "Band of Brothers" & "The Pacific", because they were meant to be watched like that.
For the many films I have watched since getting this TV, such as the three Dark Knight films, Avatar, Life of Pi, Prometheus, & StarTrek into Darkness ( to name but a few) they all look absolutely amazing. The very fine unintentional film grain that they have is removed by having both "Digital Clean View" and "MPEG Noise Filter" set at "Low" or "Auto". I found that the "High" options reduce the overall detail on the screen, it makes everything look much softer and generally awful (can make people look like wax work models), so I avoid "High", I only used the "high" option when I recently rewatched "Expendables2".
HDMI Black level needs to be set to "Normal". Dont set it too "High" because you can lose a ridiculous amount of detail in darker scenes. I accidentally had the black level set at "Low" instead of "Normal" while I was watching "The Hobbit - The Desolation of Smaug" and I kicked myself halfway through watching it. I kept wondering why every scene was so frigging dark, it was almost unwatchable because of the black level being set incorrectly. The picture can also strobe if you are watching a very dark scene in a film or playing a particularly dark game such as Uncharted on the PS3 when you are running about in caves.
Motion plus set to "Smooth" makes films look great. Im still torn between "Smooth" & "Clear", in various reviews people have suggested changing it to "Clear" but there's barely any difference. The only stuttering of the picture that I have seen by having it set to "Smooth" was during the 2nd Hobbit film. It occured when there was a huge sweeping camera movement from right to left, overlooking a castle. But that's the only time ive experienced it and its not that distracting.
Of the preset modes, Clear and "Custom" could be the best options available. The others generate motion artefacts, seen around certain moving objects as a smudgy, shadowy outline. "Clear" does cause some artefacting but it's hardly noticeable.
I would personally suggest setting Blur Reduction to 10 and Judder reduction to 8 if you want to go down the "Custom" route; this way you'll maximise moving resolution and eliminate artefacts altogether.
Watching HD content with the above custom settings makes for a very smooth and enjoyable viewing experience. I sat and watched "The Penguin King 3D" and it felt as though I was there with the penguins, sat watching the icy ocean lapping the coastline, its quite amazing. "Safari 3D" also looks ridiculous, you feel as though you can reach out and pat the elephants lol.
If you experience any stuttering to the image on screen and have a ps3, try changing the "BD 1080p 24Hz Output" to "off" because the PS3 is said to sometimes struggle choosing the correct mode to output to tvs and it could result in a choppy viewing experience, This would be especially noticible in sweeping camera movements.
For anyone grumbling about brightness being too high, lower the backlight rather than any of my other calibrated settings. It just means that you wont be able to see fine detail in darker scenes and the whites will look a bit dull.
Are you experiencing any lag during games?
If you encounter any annoying screen lag during particular games you could try turning "Game Mode" on. You can locate this on your tv settings under: System > General > Game mode.
God knows why its buried under the tvs system settings but it will reduce the screen lag in both [Game] and [PC] modes down to just 42.7ms as a Leo Bodnar input lag figure ([...]), at the cost of giving you a slightly degraded image. This will provide you with a more than acceptable if not spectacular responsiveness for playing PC or console games. All image processing is effectively turned off when "Game Mode" is activated.
I tested this out whilst playing Deadspace 3 on PS3 and the Silent Hill playable trailer ("P.T") on the PS4 and the difference is amazing. The input from your controller is almost instantaneous and the screen motion is extremely smooth and responsive.
As a comparison, LCD computer monitors have zero screen lag. The Lag in "Movie" mode on this tv is almost twice as high at 84ms.
>>> A word of caution:
If you try turning "Game Mode" on while watching regular tv it will overwrite all your "SD" source settings with the "HD" ones!, this means you would need to faff about calibrating the tv again from scratch, so i'd highly recommend that you dont try it. The "Game Mode" only works when you have a games console on.
Miscellaneous useful information:
If you want the best HDMI cable that money can buy (at a decent price) look no further than this:
Its the "IBRA® 3m High Speed PRO GOLD RED", the cable actually has a gun metal colour (not red) with gold tips, as indicated in the product photo. It is a category 1.4a 3D capable high speed braided cable. It supports resolutions up to and above 4k and has a ridiculous data bandwidth of 18 gigabytes per second. I have everything that goes in and out of my Sony STRDH810 receiver connected with these amazing cables and they are second to none. These cables are as good as the 80 quid "Monster" ones you can get robbed for.
At the end of the day the image on your tv is only as good as the crappiest part in your entire setup, and for a majority of people its simply the hdmi cable that needs upgrading.
If you want to try out some free 3D content and have the tv connected to wifi, you can access a lot of decent stuff via the "Samsung Hub". You will need to go into the hub and download the "Explore 3D" app. It should then appear under "MY APPS". You can find everything from nature to motorsports, its got something for everybody. There are quite a few 50 minute+ documentaries on there that retail around £10 online, all for free in the Samsung Hub however.
There is also another app called "3D Smart Tv", it appears to loop random relaxing 3D scenes, on one occasion I sat and watched a stream in a forest for a bit, its very good.
If you have any backup 3D films or content, be it "side by side" or "top to bottom" (either a horizontal or vertical image split) you can manually combine the images either way by going into the tvs 3D settings. You can also turn standard 2D content into 3D too, its actually not bad.
This tv also comes with 2 very useful USB ports. One is meant for high powered devices such as external hard drives and the other is suitable for memory sticks / thumb drives. The tv can actually play the following types of files without any faffing about: AVI, MP4, MKV, MOV, MTS and M2TS) and codecs (AVC-HD, H.264, X.264, WMV, DivX and Xvid. So I no longer have to waste countless hours converting MKV content into PS3/4 friendly file types. I can now simply drag mkv files onto a memory stick or my 1tb external hard drive and play them through the tv without having to play anything through a console or seperate player, simply awesome.
Note that both my devices were already formatted as Fat32, rather than NTFS, and both already had films on them. One user noted that the tv asked if he wanted to format whatever he plugged in. (This could be if your device has a NTFS file structure, so be careful).
I did attempt to play 4k demos via a memory stick but the tv tells you that the resolution is too high for playback.
I also discovered that the tv supports subtitles when watching media via the USB ports, so I'm actually using this over the PS3 because of the annoying Spanish sections in Breaking Bad that dont appear to have English subtitles...The PS4 functionality is laughable, it can't play DVDs, doesn't support MP3s, there's no music player built into the console whatsoever. But the biggest let down is no support for playing media via a usb thumb stick or external hard drive. Its basically a 300 quid games console with a poor internet browser, and thats it.
For anyone wondering about actual power consumption:
When the tv is in stand-by, it uses no more than 1 Watt, and a maximum of 94 Watts when up and running. The tv basically uses no more power than a lightbulb lol, its incredible. After using all my suggested tv settings, my tv uses around 60 watts of power, the only time you would see usage of 94 watts is if you had the retina-burning backlight, contrast and brightness all the way up to the maximum setting.
"BOOK ME" followed by a green circle:
If anyone ever sees "BOOK ME" in the top right hand corner of the screen whilst watching a bluray, you will need to turn the tv off and back on again. This occurs if you leave the built-in freeview channel on a HD BBC program... BBC, in all their wisdom, introduced this "book me" garbage recently. It pops up during trailers for future shows and apparently it allows you to set up a reminder to watch the next show. Unfortunately this BS appears on every source because the tv tuner is always on. I experienced this recently when I was watching a film and i wondered wtf it was.
So I'd recommend leaving the freeview channel set to a non-HD BBC channel if you're not going to be watching regular tv for a while, if at all.
All the technical specifications for this tv as well as the most recent firmware update can be located on the Samsung website here: [...]
Are you debating whether to get a 4k tv?:
One of my mates recently spent £1300 on a 48" 4k Samsung tv (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00KAYSQ16/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1413723087&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165) and the picture on this 1080p tv honestly looks better than that. As you can see on the graph at the following link:
[...] unless you have at least a 48" 4k tv and are sat within 5 feet of the screen, your eyes can't tell the difference between 1080p and 4k. He showed me an episode of "Breaking Bad" via a 4k stream in Netflix and it seriously wasn't all that. Until 4k media becomes more mainstream there just isn't currently a way of displaying 4k content via streaming unless you have at least a 100megabyte per second internet connection, because that is the sort of data you would need to be streaming to get any benefit from 4k resolution.
1080p content streamed from a bluray disc can typically be read at around a maximum speed of 35megabytes a second, whereas the maximum bit rate of a netflix 4k stream is only 8megabytes a second. There simply isnt enough data being streamed to hold all that fine detail held within four thousand pixels. You also currently wont find 4k media on bluray, simply because there isn't enough storage space on a bluray disc to hold a full length film. 4k blurays are meant to be out during 2015 but the majority of TV shows are still filmed and produced at 1080p.
I just thought I would mention the facts about 4k so people don't unnecessarily pay twice the price for an identical picture on screen. The only main differences on the 4k tv are the "ultraclear" screen (so it wasn't possible to see any reflections in it) and the 1000hz refresh rate, resulting in a very smooth image. Do yourself a favour, simply dim your room lights whilst watching this non-4k Samsung tv and save yourself 700 quid.
Please dont start lecturing me about the origins of sharpness and how it doesn't actually sharpen the image, I honestly dont care and ive had it rammed down my throat on avforums... If raising the sharpness results in enhanced definition of objects on screen i consider it to be a benefit. A 3D film isnt really showing a three dimensional object in front of us, but if it tricks our brain into believing it is, who cares?
I'm simply sharing my own calibration settings with the common folk that can't justify buying a seven thousand quid camera that simply measures screen brightness, and people that can't be bothered spending hours calibrating their own tvs or paying someone "qualified" hundreds to do it for them.
This review and list of settings isnt for the eyes of people with "calibration" qualifications, so move along, go crawl back under your bridge and troll someone that cares because I wont entertain it.
I'm sure that all the visitors of this website are big boys and girls, they know how to change their tv settings. If my suggestions dont work well on their own screens its no big deal and wont brick a tv... settings can be reset back to defaults. My settings are at least a good starting point for most people to fine tune to their own liking.
Anyways, I hope my above information and settings prove useful to people. Its a shame reviewers on other sites have to be so cryptic, hostile and unhelpful.
I calibrated my tv by using the "Disney WOW" calibration bluray that I imported from America. I have found that uncalibrated screens tend to have too much red and this results in an ever so slight pink hue to the screen when looking at whats meant to be "absolute white".
The 2 point and 10 point fine tuning of the colours was done by a "Sencore OTC1000" Meter with "AV Foundry VideoForge Source" and Direct Display Control. These devices tend to retail at around $7000 and are incredibly accurate.
Obviously not everyones eyes are the same, so some fine tuning might be required. My idea of a particular colour might not be the same as what you see. Im not colour blind though.
I'm very happy with my settings and when ive had people round to the house and they see the quality of the image on screen they cant get their heads around it. They say its like looking through a window/portal or as if they are in front of the actors. As far as im concerned, if a persons eyes cant tell the difference between a film and real life, i'd consider that a job well done.
If anyone does try out my settings above, please leave a comment and let me know how you get on. Im also interested in what people would consider their best "reference" quality blurays are. Im always looking to expand my library of blurays.
Visually, some of the best thing's Ive ever seen are: Life of Pi, Gravity and Avatar. Other excellent transfers are Zulu, Armageddon, Sin City and the Frozen animation by Disney. Frozen really shows off this tvs inky blacks and brilliant whites, a must watch!
The David Attenborough boxset, in particular "Kingdom of Plants 3D" is amongst the best 3D ive seen. I showed it to a mate the other day and his jaw dropped, he said it was unreal lol.
If you have any questions or are struggling with something, leave a comment and I'll help you out :)
Surely my epic wall of text is at least worth a "cool story bro" lol.
Oh, and for anyone sad enough thinking about leaving sarcastic comments about my apparent lack of apostrophes, save yourself some time and don't bother. I typed up this entire review on my phone.
Its also dissapointing when people give my honest review a thumbsdown, considering there might be some scrap of useful information they could take away from this, its pathetic. Go stand in the corner of your lonely room and have a word with yourself.
Optional Movie Mode Settings:-
If you're a sadist that insists on using "movie mode" or thinks that my settings are too bright for you, then you could try the following settings as an alternative:
Picture Mode: Movie
Tint (G/R): G50/R50
Picture Size: Screen Fit
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: -1
RGB Only Mode: Off
Colour Space: Custom
Red: 41 / 0 / 5
Green: 24 / 50 / 11
Blue: 0 / 8 / 52
Yellow: 49 / 48 / 7
Cyan: 20 / 52 / 52
Magenta: 46 / 0 / 51
Colour Space: Custom
Red - R49, G0, B7 (R39 for SD only)
Green - R22, G50, B0
Blue - R8, G8, B50
Yellow - R48, G 48, B0
Cyan - R15, G50, B47
Magenta - R48, G0, B49
White Balance 2-Point:
Red Offset -2
Green Offset +6
Blue Offset +2
Red Gain -5 -13 for SD only
Green Gain -2
Blue Gain +3
White Balance 10-Point: (Available in Movie Mode)
10% R0 G+1 B0
20% R+1 G0 B-2
30% R0 G0 B+2
40% R0 G-1 B0
50% R-1 G0 B+1
60% R0 G-1 B0
70% R-1 G-2 B-2
80% R0 G+2 B0
90% R+1 G0 B0
100% R+2 G0 B0
Colour Tone: Warm2
Digital Clean View: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
Film Mode: Auto2 (if its not grayed out)
Motion Plus: Custom
Blur Reduction: 10
Judder Reduction 8