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Deadman Disciple (Bilston, England)

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1/4105 Battlestar Galactica series Battlestar Galactica (japan import)
1/4105 Battlestar Galactica series Battlestar Galactica (japan import)
Offered by Dolia Collectables
Price: £56.99

5.0 out of 5 stars A very detailed kit, truly awesome., 10 Aug 2014
The last of the 4 models I bought from the USA, I was very impressed on first opening & inspecting the sprues on the immense amount of detail this kit actually has.

About the same size as the BSG Pegasus kit (also by Moebius) which both are about 18 inches long, so its a very sizeable kit once fully assembled.

Assembly is really easy, going along the same lines as the BSG Pegasus (which I have also done), apart from the locking head feature, this time you just slot the head & engine block into the backbone & the keel locks into the flightpods and clicks into place underneath the main body, but (in my experience) was a bit of tight fit & took a little force to get it to lock, but I got there in the end.

But when it comes to assembling the starboard flightpod, parts 16 & 17 will have to be swapped to the other respective sides as in the instructions it says to glue part 16 (which represents the launchtubes) to face the inner part of the galactica, when indeed it should face outwards towards open space (as it were)

Going back the head section, parts 49 & 50 will also have to be swapped over too, due to an error in the instructions, but apart from those assembly is pretty much straight forward.

There is on the side of the box, 2 matte drawings of the inner flight-bays, which will have to be cut out from the box & placed on the inside of the flightpods, which IMO should be brought a little more forward then it states in the instructions, so a little surgery will have to be done on the inside of the flightpods, should you wish to bring them forward.

When it comes to painting the galactica herself, the instructions tell you to spray a coat of dark grey primer & lightly dust a white coat over the primer to get an off white effect, to which I followed and with a few light coatings I managed to achieve, but it will come off in your hands, so allowing 20-30 mins to dry I then went with a good once over with Citadel Purity Seal clear coat, it sealed really nice.

Then came the decals, which went down really well using Microset & Microsol to counter the stepping & the decals moulded to the stepping contours with no problems at all.

All-in-all, im really happy on how my TOS Galactica turned out, especially with the painting instructions & you can see how she took shape on my youtube channel (the link is in my profile)

This again will make an awesome addition to any Battlestar Galactica fan.
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Microscale BMF128 Micro Sol setting solution MSSOL
Microscale BMF128 Micro Sol setting solution MSSOL
Offered by Model Hobbies
Price: £6.01

5.0 out of 5 stars Awesome stuff along with Microset., 12 July 2014
I bought some of this when the price on here went down from £25 to £3.06, from a tip off comment on my youtube channel.

My Belkits Ford Fiesta kit needed some around the wheel arches as it was an arkward stepping problem for my Ken Block aftermarket decals.

So I applied some microset first, let it dry for a few mins, then applied the microsol, then once dried the decal had sucked right into the plastic around the arkwards step & now it looks way better than it did before.

Cant recommend this stuff enough.

Liquitex Professional Spray Paint 400 ml, Neutral Grey 7
Liquitex Professional Spray Paint 400 ml, Neutral Grey 7
Price: £7.65

1.0 out of 5 stars No good for model kits., 12 July 2014
I bought a can of this from my local The Range store, as it would have been the perfect pale grey for my Moebius TOS Viper & TOS Galactica, thinking it would go down a treat.

HOW WRONG I WAS, I tested it on my Viper and it LITERALLY soaked the plastic, it filled in all the panel lines & was not a good coat at all, luckily it was water soluable, so I soaked it in some warm soapy water and the paint came off with no problems.

A shame really, as again it was the perfect grey I needed, as im having trouble finding the perfect Pale Grey in model paint.

BSG Pegasus
BSG Pegasus
Offered by gadgetsville
Price: £56.76

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars An awesome kit., 8 July 2014
This review is from: BSG Pegasus (Toy)
I bought this again from the USA, as it was £20 cheaper (at the time) than any UK seller.

The sprues were perfect with no imperfections, detail is really good much like the other Moebius kits I have made.

Unlike the Battlestar Galactica however, the flight bays were not all the way through visable, but Moebius made up for that by putting in decals that made it look (perspectively) like you could see all the way through & small landing deck decals.

When putting together the flightpods/landing bays, you affix a decal to an upright wall above the flight deck decal making sure you align the centre deck road line (as it were) to the centre of the wall decal & once in place it does look like there is a full flight deck inside.

You can buy a Paragraphix photoetch set with full length flight deck decals, but it requires a lot of surgery to the inside of the flightpods & can be quite expensive for the set.

Once the decals are down & sealed, you can assemble the flightpods using a centre sandwich piece, but it will be better if you paint the flightpods & the sandwich piece before you assemble the upper & lower flightpods as it will prove more awkward later on as I found out.

Then comes the lower & upper parts of the headpiece, again connected with a sandwich piece, once you have glued all the head inserts into place, again paint those along with the sandwich piece and glue the guns in before you assemble the headpieces onto the backbone & the belly using the locking tabs on the back.

After all that, comes the rear engine assembly, which comprises of 8 engine rods, 1 upper & lower plates which make a hexagon type housing, a mid housing mounting plate (for the rods) and the main mounting plate which glues into the backbone/belly.

However when you come to put together the backbone with upper head & the belly with the lower part of the head, the engine plate will have to be mounted upside down, as it says on the instruction sheet the mounting tabs should be glued into the backbone (top), but this is wrong & the belly (bottom) had the holes for those mounting tabs,

Once you've managed to mount the top to the bottom, which can be quite tricky, comes mounting the engine nacelles which are really easy to glue in &once the glue had dried, you then glue in the rear engine vents.

Once the engine nacelles are dry the come the flightpods, which will (like the galactica) be pushed into place through the belly holes & into a docking assembly inside which the glue should be put inside and then leave it to dry.

Then comes the painting, the paint I used for the whole of the model was armypainter's gun metal in a 400ml can, also you will have paint on the landing bay entrances in red, along with putting on the registry decals, then you will have to paint on the head markings again with red paint & then the backbone decal for the colonial emblem.

I really enjoyed building this model, all-in-all, this again will make an awesome addition to any Battlestar Galactica fan.

You can see my building of the pegasus, along with the building of all my models on my youtube channel (the link is in my profile page)
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1/32 Battlestar Galactica Viper series MK.I (japan import)
1/32 Battlestar Galactica Viper series MK.I (japan import)
Offered by GAMEFORCE
Price: £30.74

5.0 out of 5 stars Not bad, lots of detail on the exterior, but needs photoetch for cockpit., 15 Jun 2014
I bought this kit from America because it was £10-£15 cheaper (at that time) than any UK seller, along with a photoetch set for the cockpit also from America which was £20 cheaper.

I inspected the sprues & I was amazed at what I saw, the panel lines were crisp along with all the exterior parts of the viper even the canopy has riveted detailing, the cockpit's detailing was really nice but then I came across the decal sheet.

The exterior decals were really good as you get 2 options (one for the screen version & one for the full scale prop version of the viper), but then came the anti-climax.

Yet again Moebius has let us down when it comes to interior cockpit.

Only 1 solitary, on its own, single, lonely decal for the main radar screen, so I started on the cockpit.

I started to do the surgery on the cockpit by sanding down the raised detailing (which was almost a shame, as it was really nice, but I wasn't going to paint it very intricately with the smallest brush ever) and cutting out the squares for the photoetch console films to onto the back of the etch.

Then came the etch which the side consoles were very tight to the main screen etch, but it glued in the end. I originally went with Liquitex neutral grey & spray painted the cockpit, but then instantly realised that was a big mistake as I found out it was an artists spray paint & it literally soaked the cockpit & I had to clean it off the best I could & repaint it by hand using Revell Aquacolor light grey, not a perfect result, but it'll have to do.

Then came the mounting of the console films, mostly easy & a bit fiddly, but makes a whole lot of difference compared to the one solitary decal that Moebius supplied, so in a nutshell just buy the Paragraphix cockpit set (you wont regret it).

The pilot was quite easy to paint, helmet was revell sand yellow with revell metallic copper for the helmet crest, uniform was revell brown mixed in with the copper & ocher for his trousers & black boots.

Then came the fuselage, which was basically 2 halves & the cockpit plus a landing gear plate which were both very tricky to push down into place to get the 2 halves glue in together, but they did in the end.

Now came the rear assembly comprising of, intakes/engine cowling/exhausts.

Engine cowling was 3 parts, to be glued into a triangle shape with the bottom plate, but once glued together the intakes & the exhausts clipped into place very tightly so glueing wont be a problem, the exhausts also have a clear detailed insert which (if you light your kits and use the exhaust films that came with the photoetch will look a nice shade of blue, hence me painting the back panel blue to simulate it (as i've never worked with lighting)

Once the rear assembly is done, then come mounting the top & side wings onto it by mounting each half of the respective side wings effectively sandwiching the rear assembly mounting plates & gluing the wings into place.

Then comes final construction, which you mount the fuselage into the lower part on the intakes, then glue the fuselage onto the bottom plate of the rear assembly & gluing the canopy into the intakes to support the fuselage & using a trigger clamp to clamp the canopy from the top & the plate on the bottom.

With the disappointment of the Liquitex Neutral Grey (which was the perfect color) I found Modelmates Light Grey which went down really well as the main color for the exterior, decals were fine to put on apart from a few stepping problems here & there, to which I used the screen viper option of the decals, along with rubbing on some black charcoal for weathering.

Stand was very tight mounting into to the underside of the belly plate, so the mounting notch on the stand will have to be shaved off a little, also I spray painted the outside of the stand to cover up the americas logo that Moebius keep on using & using the photoetch colonial viper plate & colonial logo dressed it up real nice.

All-in-all, an awesome model with huge detail, but the interior cockpit was a little bit of a let down, but will make an awesome addition to any Battlestar Galactica fan who likes to make models.

Sorry if I rambled on a bit.
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Belkits 1/24 Ford Fiesta RS W2C 2011 ADAC Rallye Deutschland # BEL-003
Belkits 1/24 Ford Fiesta RS W2C 2011 ADAC Rallye Deutschland # BEL-003
Offered by Buy-For-Less-Online
Price: £33.13

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Nice kit, but can be a pain at times., 12 May 2014
I bought this kit, along with an aftermarket decal set & Driver & Co-Driver figure set.

Let me say this is a very detailed kit & will make an awesome addition to any collection of a motor racing fan.

The sprues were very impressive with no imperfections & again there are some very small parts, so be careful when removing them, decal sheet was great to with the option of building the M-Sport WRT 2011 to either Mikko Hirvonen or Jarri-Matti Latvala, but I decided to go with the Ken Block 2011 livery decal set made by Colorado Decals of Portugal.

Following the instructions were fairly easy, but the decals were not numbered, just the picture of the decal & position where to be mounted.

You will have to paint some of the parts as you go along, and the color chart is based on Tamiya paints, but as always I use Revell, also as this kit does not come with driver or co-driver figures (as most motor racing kits dont these days) I decided to dress up the interior with a Tamiya 89610 1/24 Driver & Co-Driver figure set.

The spare wheel, which is mounted to the rear of the chassis tub behind the driver seat, dont follow the kit instruction when mounting it, as you will have to remove it later to put the securing photo-etch ratchet & strapping on.

Also on the wheels, the ford logo & the oz racing decals are so small you will need a magnifying glass to see them & to make sure you dont put them on inside out like I initially did.

The main difficulty I had however was with the roll-cage mounting to the chassis interior tub, the instructions tell you to glue in the rear of the roll-cage to the inside wall & the front of the roll-cage to a hole mounted on the top edge of the inside wall, DONT DO THIS!!!!!!

The front of the roll-cage along with the rear should be glued on the inside wall of the chassis tub, because the hole on the top edge of the inside wall will be for the side door panels, as I followed the instructions & had to free the roll-cage once glued and re-glue to the inside wall as the side doors would not mount.

Once that was done, then came the top roof of the roll-cage, which was very fiddly indeed, you will have to align the roof mounting holes to the very small mounting pegs from the top of of each stantion of the lower part of the roll-cage, but once done it looks really good along with the figures (if you choose to buy them)

Then after that difficulty, then came mounting the main body-shell on top of the roll-caged interior made it very hard to slot into place, but using a normal cutlery knife & a bit of patience it will slot down & you will need to clamp it down good & proper once you apply the glue.

Then the outer body construction starts, which is fairly easy, but leave the spoiler, roof scoop, wing mirrors & roof antennas until you have applied the decals & get a sharp tipped file or a cocktail stick to jab the locating holes.

The kit decals should mount really well, but as I used the Colorado Decals Ken Block set I had difficulty mounting them over the stepped wheel-arches & the bonnet vents, but apart from those the rest of the decals mounted really well.

Im glad with how she turned out, this kit is well worth the buy.
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Razer Kraken Pro Analog Gaming Headset - Black
Razer Kraken Pro Analog Gaming Headset - Black
Price: £62.90

3.0 out of 5 stars Not bad for its purpose in terms of Gaming, 13 April 2014
Verified Purchase(What is this?)
After My Turtle Beach X12's had finally packed in from a broken hinge and the audio from the right hand side had completely gone it was safe to say a new headset was in order. Disappointed by the build quality of the X12's I decided to go for a higher price headset in hope that the extra money for a premium piece of kit I'd hope to get much better build quality and with the choice of the Razer Kraken Pro I feel that they will last me much longer.

So as it being a Razer product your going to get some snazzy packaging and Il be honest I was dead excited when I got it, I've always wanted to get a bit of kit from Razer and see what the craze is about though I did honestly think my first bit of kit was going to be the Tartarus but needs a must! I have read reviews or watched unboxings of this headset and have had trouble with the packaging and really I took my time trying not to damage the box and I believed it was fairly easy to open to be honest, getting the headset out of the Lil box with the plastic holder was annoying I will admit however though done undamaged! Along with the Headset you'll get Razer Documentation as you always with their products and also a nice lil Razer sticker. Enjoy the Lil things.

With it being a Razer product you can rely on it to be a premium piece of kit and built to last. Through consideration my headset needed to be comfortable to wear, better quality and no usb power required (The X12's would cause an awful buzzing noise that could annoy yourself and those on the other end of the call) that aside I can say the Razer Kraken does exactly as I want it too. The hinges which was my main concern this time round, considering the ear cups can actually fold in for easier transport I dont think Ill have the same worry compared to my x12's.

"The Most Comfiest Headset Ever" Such a line that really I dont think can be proven. Simply cause thats going to be down to opinion not fact but lets not get into that debate shall we! Anyways its got a few issues, to begin with the headset itself. The Audio reproduction quality of this headset is simply not good. There's much better headsets out there for it and for £60 Id expect the Audio quality to be better than what it actually is. To start off, like most people have said in most reviews. Bass. Way to much, the first thing that will hit you when you put it on and listen to music the bass is immediately noticeable. Some wont mind, some do. Personally I do however over time I've kind of gotten used to it however some of my favorite tracks do sound kind of muddy due to it so dont expect brilliant Audio quality. For playing games it's not too bad but I mainly got this to communicate with friends and play online so it fits the job well to not banter too much about audio. I will mention however these are closed ear cups for better sound isolation keeping you in your fantasy world and the real world out of your immersive experience though do remember to take breaks. Being used to the X12's I could have them on for Hours and hours without breaks, the Kraken however I have to take breaks as because of them being closed ear cups not alot of air gets passed through to your ears and the bacteria build up can be quite aggravating and at the time of writing this my ears are a little sore. A fault to due to my own use and not the headset mind you but passing on this advice!

Next on to the Microphone, its retractable which is I really like since if you dont want it out you can simply put it away when not needed. With this feature since it being a Analog headset, its a normal 3.5mm jack meaning you can plug it into your Phone or Ipod or whatever you use to listen to music, so potentially you could use them while your out and about if you dont mind the headset on while your out and with that microphone away you dont look that additional bit silly. Just saying!
The Microphone is really nice and responsive just as you'd like in a gaming headset. Sadly however theres no function to mute the microphone or control the volume as of like the X12's so you'll have to adjust the volume level on your desktop and either push to talk macro or mute the microphone through your software manually. With this new change I have had to be more careful on what Im saying and must realize I no longer have this Luxury...
A splitter will also be included so you can use the Microphone and Audio ports on your desktop as the headset on its own only has one jack connector.

Finally Software, Synapse 2.0. I downloaded this in hope I could use the Equalizer to get bring up some of those bass frequencies to make it less muddy but alas my headset appears to only use my Realtek audio playback opposed to the Razer Audio control playback. When making Razer control the default device I wont hear anything, all the audio is being played back on the Realtek Audio channel instead of Razer control which I found annoying yet have seen no solution so that is unfortunate. On a side note you can download Razer's surround sound software to essential give it some surround sound elements which aren't bad in truth but appears it can be used with more than just Razer headsets so potentially could use on any headset perhaps?

Overall I think its a great headset for its purpose. Built to last, not bad to wear and does its job. For £60 I think it is a little overpriced however for the build quality I reckon its worth that extra push if it will last you in the long run.

And remember folks, ensure you take breaks!

Humbrol 12ml Acrylic Paint No. 128 Us Satin (Compass Grey)
Humbrol 12ml Acrylic Paint No. 128 Us Satin (Compass Grey)
Price: £2.00

5.0 out of 5 stars not bad., 12 Feb 2014
Verified Purchase(What is this?)
Perfect color to paint the Battlestar Galactica Mk. VII Viper model kit, went down really well too.

Revell wanted me to use 4 colors to paint the grey for the whole of the main body/fuselage, so I just used this color.

Probably will be great for military models.

Battlestar Galactica 1:32 Scale Revell Colonial Viper MK. VII
Battlestar Galactica 1:32 Scale Revell Colonial Viper MK. VII
Offered by Spielwaren Sulzer GmbH & Co KG
Price: £11.88

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars An awesome kit, Revell made it better than Moebius., 27 Jan 2014
Verified Purchase(What is this?)
I bought this kit just after the new year with an amazon giftcard my dad gave me for christmas & Ive wanted to build this kit for a while.

I inspected the sprue & there was no imperfections, all the detail was the there, panel lines are nice & deep, pilot came with female & male variants & the decal sheet was really detailed & gave you options to either make it to Galactica or Pegasus vipers & gave you 5-6 pilot variants.

The instructions were quite clear & easy to follow, they told you to start on the top engine cowling & top tail wing first, which I advise you not to glue until you have glued the bottom & top halves & engines are in place, as I found it difficult to fit with the locating pinholes with the assembly complete.

Then came the cockpit tub, which is not correct to the show as you might need to buy the paragraphix photoetch cockpit tub set which will replace the kit supplied tub.

As im on a budget I used the kit supplied tub, Revell did an awesome job with the cockpit decals, which they actually did their research & included all the cockpit decals (which Moebius didnt) & the cockpit tub looks a whole lot better, but the main screen decals (which there are 3) will not fit in the little dinky space on the main dashboard, so you will have to put the main dradis decal on the dashboard & the 2 little decals on the side wall of the tub just each side of the dradis decal.

Then once the cockpit is all sealed with your clear gloss, then comes the pilot. The pilot once done will sit inside the cockpit with the pilot seat & backpanel, but you will have to seal the pilot aswell, as once she/he is in it will be a very tight fit & if you havent sealed the wall of the tub or the pilot, each will scrape some paint/decal off the other.

Once the cockpit & pilot is dry then come mounting in the top half of the fuselage, but first cut your clear canopy off the sprue & glue the canopy FROM THE INSIDE FIRST, then once dry then glue the completed cockpit below the canopy using the locating tabs with the locating pins inside the fuselage.

You will also have 2 vents to glue inside the nose & underneath the cockpit inside the bottom half of the fuselage & then shes pretty much ready to glue together, but before that comes the engines.

The engines comes in 3 peices, then once glued together using clamps you will have some very thin flimsy support rigging to glue into place on each side of the complete engine block, once they have dried, then you will have paint & seal the completed engine block to glue into the top & bottom halves of the fuselage.

Using scissor clamps, as it will take some force to get the bottom & top halves to glue together, leave them to dry for at least 12 hours just to be sure.

Once dry, then glue the rest of the cowling into place a piece at a time, then once they are dry it will now just come to paint & decals.

Now, Revell (in their infinite wisdom want you to mix 4 colors to make the medium blue/grey to paint the model, but instead I looked at Humbrol's color chart & found the perfect color, No 128 (US Compass Grey) which went down really well & took 2 coats & that along with some silver dry-brushed on for weathering & using a sharpend pencil to draw down the panel line channels makes it look awesome.

Last but not least, once the decals are put on the model, which some tore on me, but with some gentle persuasion went back into place, comes the stand.

I decided to paint the stand from the outside to cover up the americas map and lines, Revell put some decals to be placed on the stand & it dresses up the stand very nicely.

An awesome kit, goes really well alongside my MK. II Viper & Galactica & £10 cheaper than the Moebius kit.
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Revell MiL-24 Hind Helicopter 1:48 Plastic Kit
Revell MiL-24 Hind Helicopter 1:48 Plastic Kit
Offered by Creative Models Ltd
Price: £16.99

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Great, but needs aftermarket decals., 7 Dec 2013
= Durability:5.0 out of 5 stars  = Fun:5.0 out of 5 stars  = Educational:5.0 out of 5 stars 
My brother-in-law & mother-in-law went halves and bought this for my birthday to go along with the Revell 1:48 apache that my wife bought for my birthday.

All the parts on the sprue were quite detailed and again as always there are some really small parts that will need careful removal.

The two halves went together well but will need some persuasion once the interior troop cabin has been glued into place, also the clear pieces on the canopy will have two options, either you can glue them into place closed or leave them open with some support rods that are included, which the same goes for the troop cabin doors.

Canopy went on not too bad, although masking was a bit of a pain, but I got there in the end.

I decided not to use the landing gear, so I glued in the rear landing gear cover plates into the hull & bent back the front landing gear plate & used some cereal box card to cover up the rest of the hole & painted it to blend in with the rest of the belly.

Also the wings will need supergluing to the side of the hull & there will be a joinage gap to fill, so I used some modelling putty to fill that in.

Decals were not very good though & the decal sheet was very small, as Revell (in their infinite wisdom) decided to give me German & Polish Airforce markings instead of the Russian Airforce which what the Hind was originally built for.

So I bought some aftermarket decals from Linden Hill Imports in the USA, which cost me $16.95+$6.95 shipping, which was really cheap & they too a week to arrive.

Once I got them, the Linden Hill decal set was really detailed with a nice placement guide booklet for the various airforces & I was really chuffed with all the Russian markings that I got too.

One thing I will warn you about the Linden Hill decals is, even though they are really good decals with lots of detail, they are very flimsy, so be careful when applying them to the hind, As I found out many times, especially the shark mouth decals, that tore on me a number of times, so I didnt use the shark ones in the end.

Also, when putting the rear tail rotor on, you might have to drill the mounting hole to make it slightly bigger as the mounting shaft snapped & I had to cut off & re-drill the hole and use a cocktail stick to re-make the shaft from scratch & glue into the rear tail rotor.

Revell Aquacolor's I used:-

36116 Sand Yellow (instead of Afrika Corp's Yellow)
36382 Wood Brown (for the camo)
36145 Light Olive (belly & side border)
36190 Silver (rotor & tail rotor assembly & engines)
36378 Dark Grey (tail rotor & main rotor blades)
36374 Light Grey (interior troop cabin)
36140 Black Green (cockpit interior)

All-in-all, with the aftermarket decals I put on she's looking real good & im glad how's she's turned out.
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