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Western Digital Caviar 2TB SATAII 64MB Cache 3.5-inch Green Internal Hard Drive OEM
Western Digital Caviar 2TB SATAII 64MB Cache 3.5-inch Green Internal Hard Drive OEM

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Western Digital looks towards the better, but takes a turn for the worse..., 30 Sep 2012
I bought this drive a month short of 2 years ago. I was well chuffed with capacity, and pretty happy with speeds too, after all - I'd only gotten it for 80 quid(back when HDDs were cheap :D).

Recently however I learnt about reliability issues with WD's Green line up.

Basically, whenever the head is inactive for more than 8 seconds, the firmware sends it into "park" mode. This discharges it completely. When it's needed again - it's charged again and used. This is done to save that extra little bit of power, or so WD say. The problem is however that this is a mechanical part and just like any other mechanical part - it has a finite life span, i.e. it can only sustain so many charge/discharge cycles before it wears down and needs replacement. That in itself isn't as big a problem in this particular model, it's present on EVERY HDD on the market. Where this becomes an issue is going in and out of park every 10 seconds. This is because most operating systems will need to access the HDD at intervals anywhere between 5 and 60 seconds just to keep itself going (though I'm still not sure why it would do this even at idle). This becomes a big issue once the system is left running 24/7, since that will just rack up park cycles over doing basically nothing. This will drastically shorten the life of your HDD, so it should be considered carefully.

People who buy these things expect miracles just because it says "Western Digital" on them. That's just like saying "I won't take any medicine, God will cure me". It doesn't work like that - it might happen or it might not.

I've seen people complaining about speed dropping as shown on one of the testing graphs. That's normal. It happens to all HDDs (some more so than others mind you). It's because the read/write head can only pick up the data at the rate at which it passes underneath. As it happens, the drives spin at a constant 5400rpm and as the head moves in, the tangential velocity at the point where the head is would be lower than at the outside, hence slower data pass rate, hence - slower read/write.

People also buy these drives for RAID arrays and NAS setups. That's good for lower power consumption and price, HOWEVER these drives are not designed with this in mind. They are BASIC consumer drives, meant to be put in a PC and run as is.

Because of all the power saving features, reliability on these drives does suffer. Best use for them I see is backup, HTPC media storage and main games directory (for when you absolutely must have every single awesome game on Steam :D). Basically - non critical data if they'd be used continuously or any data if only intermittent use is required (like backup).

I had to learn this the hard way when my main storage drive died about a month ago, however WD's warranty still covers it, so after my data is recovered I'm sending it off for RMA.

My recommendation to any perspective buyers would be to consider the WD RED and WD RE.

WD have recently released their RED line up, which is a consumer (I'm guessing cheaper too) version of their famed RE drives.

RE stands for RAID Edition. These drives are geared towards business server systems, where 24/7 operation is a fact. Their firmware has also been optimized for RAID use by capping error recovery time, so that if an error is encountered the drive won't spend however long it takes to recover the file, but instead - to avoid being dropped out of the array by the RAID controller, it'd mark the sectors as bad and notify the RAID controller, which would recover the missing data from other drives and write it on good sectors. This is how RAID redundancy prevents data loss.

The RED line have the same feature set, however they come in a 3TB flavour as well. However they spin at 5400rpm as opposed to 7200 on RE drives. This means they will be somewhat slower, however much quieter. To me that's a positive, since it means that a RAID config in my PC or a NAS could run virtually silent 24/7. They'd also run much cooler, which reduces wear on the platters, heads and motor.

Having been a user of a 500GB RE3 drive for a fair few years, I'd expect nothing short of 24/7 reliability from a RED drive too. For what it's worth - I'd pay the premium for a RAID Ed and have peace of mind, but only if they're as quiet as RED drives.

It all boils down to this though:

The Good:
-built to save power
-damn near silent
-decent price(or at least they were when I got mine)
-excellent performance for a 5400rpm drive

The Bad:
-known to have reliability issues
-not suitable for RAID arrays or NAS servers

Loses a star over the increased failure rate.

Asus 1GB GeForce GTX 560TI DirectCUII PCI-E Graphics Card
Asus 1GB GeForce GTX 560TI DirectCUII PCI-E Graphics Card

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars ASUS DCII really does make a difference when you overclock, 6 Jun 2012
Well looking at this card, it's basically a custom GTX560Ti. What ASUS have done to it is redesign the cooler and implement their own overclocking BIOS, as well as an improved power distribution system. It comes with a black PCB, which fits most case themes.

This allows the card to run nearly silent at any clock and any load. That's not to say the reference coolers are loud when running normally, but they do tend to become audible/loud during overclocking.

The card takes 2 6-pin PCI Express power connectors, suggesting a maximum power consumption of 225W, though that is normally not the case, since the card is designed to run at 150W/160W at factory settings. My take on it would be that nVidia decided it would be best to draw the majority of the power through the external connectors, rather than put load on the PCI Express motherboard slot itself (capable of delivering 75W).

Officially, ASUS promises up to 50% overclock with their BIOS, as it allows for better power delivery and control. In my experience, that's a highly optimistic prediction, though possible. I have seen cases of GPU clocks at or beyond 1GHz, though that does tend to be unstable for 24/7 use.

I got one of these for my friend's budget rig. Before I let him near it, I ran my own tests of this. I managed to get 1150MHz on the core with quite a bit of extra juice going through that chip. I found a reasonable clock at stock voltage would be about 955-960MHz. Past that, the fan must stay at 100% to ensure the temperature doesn't exceed safe limits, or degeneration will occur at the GPU core. Same applies to voltage. Too much will cause degeneration.

Being a bit of a silence freak, I did notice a bit of noise coming from the DCII cooling fans, but that's really nothing compared to a basic bog standard 120mm fan that moves a decent amount of air. The inherent whine however is quite annoying at top speeds if there's nothing louder to cover it up (such as an HDD or high performance fan). Fortunately however, there's no need to run the fan that high, unless an overvolt is present. Under most conditions, the stock settings run just fine. The card remains quiet, though on the warm side.

Now, there's a big discussion on the size of GPU frame buffers, with the marketing departments insisting that more is better, and actual enthusiasts (i.e. those who know what they're talking about) realizing that buffer size really makes no difference past a certain point.

In this case, I was selecting the card to run a 17" monitor. At the time of testing, this card ran every game maxed out at fully playable settings. My tests of Metro 2033 conclude that the came is perfectly playable at maximum settings for resolutions up to 1280x1024. It ran it no problem on my 23" monitor at 1920x1080 with reduced Anti Aliasing. Same applies for Crysis 2 _AFTER_ DX11 and High Resolution Textures pack. The way the frame rates change as AA is increased at 1080p suggests filling of the frame buffer, which is to be expected from the two most demanding games at such resolutions.

The latest Batman game however is so poorly coded that it hardly runs properly. This is not due to the card, it's a game coding problem. I've tested and measured the usage of the card, and my findings suggest that only about half of its potential is being utilized, even at maximum settings.

Needless to say, this will be adequate for most single screen setups, and as 2 of these (if your board supports SLI) would outperform a GTX580, and be pretty much on par with a GTX680 (for 50 - 100 pounds less as well that is!).

If any larger screens (or multiple screens) are used, I'd recommend running 2 cards, or better yet - something like a 670.

In any case, the card is fully adequate and capable of handling a full HD monitor.

-Excellent budget choice
-Decent power consumption
-Custom PCB as well as the cooler, removing any limitations nVidia might have imposed (such as their famed power restrictions for programs such as FurMark)
-Quiet for the most part, and cooler than reference cards
-ASUS BIOS allows for power delivery tweaking and ASUS specific power saving features, such as the "Power Saving" mode of the ASUS EPU, standard with modern ASUS boards
-Excellent overclocking capacity

-No backplate

Should you wish to read a professional review, here's a link to the Geeks3D review of a slightly further overclocked version of this card:


Pair of Box Enclosures for 6x9" Car Speakers
Pair of Box Enclosures for 6x9" Car Speakers

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars The Loudest... almost, 13 May 2012
Verified Purchase(What is this?)
I'll start with the good - well made, solid, nothing I could really pick on at first glance.

Then I put some speakers in there.

You see, the problem arises when the bass is turned up (I wouldn't have it any other way!!!).

Since these are closed enclosures, the airflow necessary to allow the speakers to operate properly is just impossible.

Perhaps you've seen holes on the sub woofers of hi-fi systems? The speaker cones move quite a bit of air. Even the small ones. That's because a greater amplitude is needed to generate louder bass.

At first I thought it was the speakers. At a certain bass level they'd just distort. No way around it. I tried messing around with the amp settings, but that didn't help either.

Then I sat and thought about it and I noticed that these have no outlet for the considerable amount of air that my speakers were trying to move.

The guys who made these actually made it quite easy for me to fix, as there is already a decently sized hole drilled at the back of these - the plastic wiring connector. It's quite a good press fit, potentially lightly glued.

After I pulled out them bits of plastic the sound suddenly regained its full range. All the distortion was gone - as desired.

By all means - these enclosures are great, but be careful what speakers you put in them and make sure there is a sufficiently large opening for air to pass through. Otherwise - they impede performance. I'd say - just pull out those connectors at the back and solder the wiring onto the speakers.

JVC High-Quality Portable Lightweight On-Ear Audio Headphones with 3-way Foldable Design - Black
JVC High-Quality Portable Lightweight On-Ear Audio Headphones with 3-way Foldable Design - Black
Price: £19.39

5.0 out of 5 stars AWESOME!!!... Just be careful how you handle these :P, 13 May 2012
Got these at Tesco (shame on me, I know), about 8 months ago. Since, I've used them almost exclusively with my PC. Please DO understand that I run a Creative SoundBlaster X-Fi series card, so I can get the full benefit of them. Naturally - I love 'em!

These are the only headphones I've used that can handle the full bass output generated by my sound card, and then some more.

Recently, I compared them to my flatmate's professional DJ headset, and I didn't really notice any difference. That being said - I wasn't using any specialist equipment, I simply plugged his headphones (which set him back about 230 quid) in the same hole on my sound card. Didn't notice any significant difference, other than - his were quieter. That being said - are designed for professional headphone amps, so they are capable of much higher volumes, just need more power.

One thing I prefer in these - they are actually not that big. Makes it easy to carry them in pockets and such.

While they don't have the noise cancelling effect of full cover headphones or in ear pieces (got to love my Sony ones too), they do deliver.

I hear a better range using these than I do with a pair of 6x9 Pioneer speakers and an 800W Edge amp, though that's to be expected of headphones.

My ONLY problem with these - they tend to break if you're not careful enough.

I managed to get a break on the left side in January and one on the right side in April. Quite simplistic failures, however inconvenient nevertheless.

So I got hold of some super strength glue, intended more for model aircraft, thus - ideal. The glued joints don't look pretty, but that doesn't bother me, as they still feel fine and sound perfect.

In all - if you intend to abuse these like I did - get something made of metal. It's a lot easier to just bend the metal back into shape than it is to start mixing glue and trying to get it into fiddly places.

Other than that - AWESOME!!!

Weller BP860CEU 8W / 11W Battery Soldering Iron
Weller BP860CEU 8W / 11W Battery Soldering Iron
Offered by Co-Star
Price: £29.28

1 of 2 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Brilliant for small stuff, 4 Feb 2012
Well I pretty much agree with the other guys - quality couldn't be better!

This is perfect for soldering small things(or even big ones) to circuit boards, however that's not the only application. I personally first used it to do some wiring properly, and let's be honest - it works great! The only drawback I saw was that it wasn't powerful enough to heat the very large cables quickly(and by that I mean a 7 strand, 50A rated power cable for an amplifier), but then again - most AC ones aren't either!

Overall - fits the description, one more happy customer!!!

Razer Orochi 5600DPI Gaming Mouse
Razer Orochi 5600DPI Gaming Mouse
Offered by Specialtech
Price: £85.78

3 of 4 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Buy with care!, 7 Oct 2011
I've been reading up on this mouse for a while now and when I finally ordered it I realized why so many people complain.

The mouse itself has been designed to suit a few types of people:

1. People with small/average sized hands
If your hands are huge - the mouse will annoy the living hell out of you. My hands are average sized and I am still getting used to its size, though that's really not a problem for me.

2. A certain type of mouse hold/grip
Even if your hands are on the large side, this mouse may still be a good choice. If your mouse hold is similar to mine - two fingers on the buttons and two on the side, the mouse doesn't feel that small, but if you like to have your whole hand on the thing, the size will make a difference

3. Non-gamers that want a quality mouse to use at home and on the move, that are not bothered by its small dimensions. This includes people that NEED a small mouse to fit their travel pack. I know this is overkill for someone that will be browsing the web, but I do CAD on my laptop(other than gaming of course) and this has saved me from the annoyance of the touch pad(which isn't designed for CAD in the first place)

Now I've heard of problems that a select few people have had with this particular mouse and I guess they may have a point, but I've had no issue with it so far(will update if problem noticed), so I can't see why they would. I've heard these complaints about the Lycosa, but not seen any confirmation of them yet. I'm certain that if a problem arose, amazon will certainly try to solve it. Part of it though comes from improper use of the devices, so if a problem persists - talk to someone about what you do to the thing and they might tell you where the problem is.

I heard there were issues with the pairing on this. I've had none. It doesn't come with its own bluetooth receiver, so that's a fiver gone towards that(unless your laptop has one built in), but if you buy a bluetooth receiver that isn't up to spec I can easily see problems arising - not the mouse's fault!

I've also noticed Amazon have listed this as a 5600dpi mouse. It's not! Look up the Razer site(always a good thing before buying - ensures no surprises), it's listed as 4000dpi!

On the Razer site you can also take a look the Razer Mouse Guide or something, that will tell you which mouse would be more suitable to your gaming style. The Mouse Configurator will directly recommend a mouse to suit your needs, so nobody really has an excuse to moan about the mouse being small!!! They also do that for keyboards and mouse mats, so as I said - noone has an excuse.
Comment Comments (2) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Jan 17, 2012 5:28 PM GMT

Corsair CMT6GX3M3A1866C9 GT 6GB Dominator
Corsair CMT6GX3M3A1866C9 GT 6GB Dominator

5 of 8 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent all rounder!!!!, 4 Dec 2010
This 6GB set ships with all the bells and whistles needed to overclock quite high.

I bought this for my ASUS Crosshair IV Formula build as I wanted more than 4GB of ram.

It is designed to run on Intel Core i7 based platforms and ships with an airflow fan 6 slots wide, but nothing says you can't stick that on an AMD platform and it actually performs just as good on that. Obviously you don't have triple channel and that will be a disadvantage as this set was designed to run in triple, but so far the 2+1 config is working fine.

I had some trouble fitting the Airflow fan on top as the mem slots are so close to the CPU(and I have a V8 in the way too), but after some negotiation it fit like a glove.

My board only pushes to 1600 natively, but using the built in profiles it runs 1866 with great ease.

I plan on tweaking timings and possibly overvolting(after all that's what the fan's there for) to see if I'll break any of my current Vantage records, but I doubt I'm pushing the 965 hard enough, so a water cooling system is in planning.

Personally I'd advise against pushing this beyond 1866, but instead tweak the timings as a bit there results in a huge frequency increase equivalent. It also requires less overvolting to run as fast.

Overall excellent for Intel systems and also great for AMD enthusiasts looking for a bit more memory. Who says Dominator GTs are exclusive only to Intel? Get a fourth stick for 8GB in full dual channel(board dependent).
Comment Comments (2) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Oct 9, 2011 10:22 PM BST

ASUS Crosshair IV Formula - AMD 890FX - Socket AM3 - PCI-E 2.0 - DDR3 1600/1800/1866 - SATA 6Gb/s RAID - SupremeFX X-Fi Audio - CrossFire - ATX
ASUS Crosshair IV Formula - AMD 890FX - Socket AM3 - PCI-E 2.0 - DDR3 1600/1800/1866 - SATA 6Gb/s RAID - SupremeFX X-Fi Audio - CrossFire - ATX

34 of 35 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars GET ONE!!!!!!! BETTER YET - TWO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, 30 Nov 2010
For months now I've been on the lookout for a crossfire board and naturally I turned to what everyone calls the best. I looked up a few ASUS boards and prices, then looked up the online reviews of this particular piece of hardware and decided to put my money where my mouth is.

When it arrived it was well packaged with lots of "air bags" - literally, bags full of air - to prevent any damage(better than bubble wrap I guess)an I was eager to open it and get it going.

When you first open the front of the box(flip panel), it strikes you with all this colour and images on the reverse side, describing the main features of this and what sets it apart from the rest. Then moving down you see the board itself, handy for putting up on window shelves at PC shops, pretty useless for the average enthusiast as pretty packaging doesn't necessarily mean good performance.

This board comes with so many features to make overclocking easier it may actually make it boring for some of us(though I'm not that advanced yet). The first thing I did when I booted up was to try all the automatic overclocking features. You get software and hardware with both achieving a mild to moderate overclock(in simple terms, you can save a few quid on a CPU and still get higher level performance). My 965 was pushed to about 3.65 via BIOS and 3.78 via TurboV's auto tuning feature.

What I really liked about this board is the flexibility it provides people. Even if you don't know how to open your e-mail account, you can get a 150 to 500MHz OC out of this board. All stable and would probably run off the stock cooler(though I would advise against that).

TurboV also comes with Turbo Unlocker, which will give you an automatic OC on AMD's Black Edition CPUs dependent upon workloads, all well within TDP and heat limits. It varies the OC to suit either a highly threaded application - mild OC on all cores, a two thread application - mild-moderate OC on two(or three)cores and a non-threaded application with up to 500MHz(advertised) boost for the single core. Now that's pretty good for an automatic OC feature that won't cause any cooling or stability issues.

The software also includes built in OC profiles, but they don't give a substantial increase.

A feature I liked was the mid way point (or simple OC) where one would set the most basic of parameters and the board would do the rest. I like it because it takes the guess work out of the equation for novice overclockers and will provide stability with mild to moderate OCs, which is a good learning base.

And all the way to the other end, this board has enthusiast and extreme settings I never knew existed, most of which are accessible through TurboV as well as the BIOS. As I said, great flexibility!!!

If you go into BIOS, it will show the Extreme Tweak page first. That has all the settings you'll need to get your CPU to the top of its potential. It even includes RAM OC profiles. That's intended for people like me who went all out and bought a set of Corsair Dominator GT and want to run it at its full potential. Personally I have a set of 6GB at 1866(9-9-9-24) and the maximum native support of the board is 1600. All I had to do is select the D.O.C.P. setting and then the 1866 profile and voila - stable at 1866 with the 965 at 3.39. If you have a 2000MHz set - it will run it at 2000.

All I did after was increase the CPU multiplier a bit and I'm now running 3.844 stable at 40*C idle and 57*C max load. Will chase after the 4GHz mark soon. It just makes things so easy with all the automatic V regulation settings. And I haven't even scraped the full potential of this board yet!

I know other people have bumped up ALL voltage settings by quite a bit and are running 4.2 - 4.5 stable on water, but I doubt my V8 will cope with the amount of heat the 965 will dump on it.

With all the software to run the features, ASUS thought of the purists as well. The bunch that won't bother installing all the diagnostic software, because it's too inaccurate for them. For this purpose they have ProbeIt tabs on the board. You can touch your multimeter to one of those and it will give the most accurate voltage reading, meaning you no longer need to rely on software that may be showing higher or lower than true values. I've yet to test this as I've yet to push the board hard enough to need to test it.

On the cooling side, ASUS have included a total of 8 fan headers. All PWM, all fully adjustable. They can be used as follows:
CPU, CHA1, CHA2, CHA3 - ran off the CPU temperature. Fan profiles included, but manual profiles can be set. Caution - fan profile max temps are set to 70*C and some AMD CPUs have a threshold of 62!!!!!
PWR, OPT1, OPT2, OPT3 - ran at duty cycle setting between 40 and 90%
All - ran at full speed
OPT1, OPT2, OPT3 - ran on individual temperature sensors with the max sensor temp value set separately per fan(sensor sold separately)
If all are ran at full speed, it may be possible to adjust them using software.

All fan headers are also DC friendly and have the capability to adjust the speed of DC fans, meaning you don't have to go and buy a separate controller or a whole new set of PWM fans for your case in order to have them adjusted.

I've also noticed that this board doesn't run the fans on 100% at ANY load as that is not necessary, therefore saving energy and money.

The EPU program that comes with this board also has three modes of operation:
Auto - system settings are adjusted relative to system load
Maximum Performance - fans are ran at BIOS profiles, no performance downgrade at any time
Max. Power Saving - fans are switched off, CPU multiplier is brought down to minimum as is CPU VCore, HDDs are switched off when not needed(in general valid for all profiles, but idle time before switch off is varied and can be adjusted via the settings menu)

Auto and Max. Power Saving also provide the option to undervolt the CPU. This will reduce both power usage and CPU temps, but use with caution, as it will destabilize the system if used wrong.

Installing this board, I noticed a rather simplified design and a lack of a component I was so used to. It didn't have an IDE connection. This made installing windows(as I couldn't transfer my RAID0 over) a rather tricky job, because my DVD drive ran on IDE. I did however manage to put the windows installation on a pen drive and that proved to be much quicker than the DVD install I was so used to.

This board comes with all the standard ROG features, like GameFirst, ROG Connect, etc(If you look up this board on ASUS' web site, you will find all the info you need).
It also comes with Mem-OK, meaning it will get ANY ram going(again enthusiast features - super low latency stuff may fail if configured incorrectly, but this will run it safe until set manually)

I've noticed that since I've used this board, I've lost any microstutter I used to get whilst gaming and I believe that's due to the 1866RAM I'm running. I've also improved my benchmark scores by quite a bit.

Looking up the spec on this board, I've noticed an increase in graphics performance over the previous best. This board sports 42 PCIE lanes, 10 of which reserved for SATA III(6 ports x 6Gb/s) and USB 3.0 support(Using an NEC interface chip) as well as the SupremeFX X-Fi audio(Courtesy of Creative Labs).

This config lets you use either 2 slots at x16, one at x16 and two at x8 or all 4 at x8.

It should be mentioned that the only official multi GPU support is for CrossFire X. I will put great emphasis on "OFFICIAL" as this doesn't mean that it won't run SLI. I've managed to get two nV cards to run SLI on mine(using SLI Patch v0.9) and they scaled just as good as they did on an X58 and nForce 980. The only problem would be the SLI Bridge as it is not provided with this motherboard. I did however find some 3 way ASUS ones on the web, so all is not lost. I will however also emphasise that this is unofficial and there are no guarantees. No support is provided by ASUS as nVidia won't grant the 890FX SLI rights and this being an ASUS 890FX board would put ASUS in violation of that. Bottom line, don't buy specifically to run SLI! If that's what you're after, get the Extreme version as the Lucid Hydra will add support for SLI.

Overall this is one of the best boards available and certainly a big hit on Intel's X58 in terms of Crossfire support, and with the new 1090T reaching the levels of the i7 930 both stock and OC, AMD are starting to weigh their own in the game.

This board is a bit on the pricey side, but you do get what you pay for.

Bottom line - GET ONE!!!!!
Comment Comments (35) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Jun 29, 2011 5:45 PM BST

Coolermaster Silent Pro 700W Modular PSU
Coolermaster Silent Pro 700W Modular PSU

5 of 6 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Does what it says on the box!, 22 Nov 2010
When I first thought of getting a new PSU I was running a 450W standard one. When this arrived I hurried to install it and see the difference.

During normal use, the fan cannot be heard over the other cooling I have and is barely audible over my GPU fan in silent mode(PC state, CPU undervolt, all extra cooling = off)

What I really liked about THIS particular model is the single rail design. It means that you are never out of options with multi GPU setups, as long as there's power. For example, some GPUs will need two PCIE connectors and running two of them in SLI or CF will require the use of the extra connectors usually bundled with them.

Now on standard multirail setups, that usually requires you using two MOLEX leads on separate rails, but with this, it doesn't matter. There's ONE rail to all, thus the full potential can be drawn from any +12V lead(so long as the lead can take the load). This eliminates the need of extra clutter in the case if extra PCIE leads are needed.

I've also heard that some people had trouble with the rubber insulators. These are for standard legacy cases that mount the PSU so that it touches the case. Most modern ones(certainly all CM ones) that mount the PSU at the bottom have rubber feet eliminating the need for extra insulation. I put mine on just in case and neither the 590 nor the PSU screws seemed to have an issue with it. Granted the case has thin walls and some thicker aluminium ones will have this issue.

Overall, worth the money!

No Title Available

0 of 1 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Best I've used!!!, 22 Nov 2010
I bought this thermal paste to compliment my CM V8 on my 125W Ph II 965 BE C3. It took me a little while to work out my application method, but after a few reseats I got all the kinks sorted out.

I've used this in every single build I have right now and apart from the little inconvenience caused by the break in period(which is greatly assisted by torture tests btw) it's given me the best results. I've started to replace my GPUs' thermal greases as well. On a 9500GT and a 9600GSO it's giving good results and I'm thinking of swapping out the 4770's one as well, but that's tolerable for now.

I used this to replace the thermal pad that was on a laptop as well. The AMD TK-55 went from 92*C under prime to just about 70. The fan didn't go faster than65%. I also put a bit on the thermal conductive soft pad(the really thick ones) that was on the GPU. That dropped to about 60*C as well(from 78 originally).

My friend had an annoying fan on his machine. He had had the CPU replaced once before after some usage. When I popped it open, the thermal pad looked and felt like a piece of rubber. I tried to scrape it off, but it was pointless so I just used the ArctiClean instead. When I replaced it with AS5, the temps dropped from around 70 under prime to 51 max. Also the fan wasn't as loud and didn't become audible until after 5 minutes in the prime stress test. That's before the break in had finished. My best guess is that now it runs at about 48-50*C.

It also helps my 965 stay at 52*C when running at 3.8-4GHz

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