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Faulty or is it me? Canon EOS 1100d - Beginner


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Showing 1-14 of 14 posts in this discussion
Initial post: 25 Jan 2012 21:14:14 GMT
Hi please can anyone help me, I'm a total beginner with the slr's but always had digital cameras. I only bought this camera on saturday and went out tonight to try to see the northern lights (no luck) however I wasnt sure which settings I was ment to have the camera on so was having a play around but found the camera just kept clicking and wouldn't take a picture, is this ment to happen as will feel a bit of a fool taking it back if it's not faulty?

In reply to an earlier post on 26 Jan 2012 12:45:12 GMT
Hi Kezza,
I presume it was dark? Perhaps there was insufficient light for it to focus? What exposure was it giving? Were lights flashing?
Does it work now, in daylight?
My Sony has an indicator to show it has achieved focus. This comes on whether the camera is in autofocus or manual focus mode. I bet your Canon has one too.
Autofocus has a number of limitations as does auto exposure, auto white balance, auto ISO and anything else auto you care to mention.

Posted on 28 Jan 2012 19:47:19 GMT
HP says:
Hi, it's most likely it didn't have enough light in order to focus. The only way to tell if a focus has been achieved is to hear for the beeping noise, insufficient focus should flash red in the view finder.

Posted on 28 Jan 2012 19:48:45 GMT
HP says:
Make sure your lens is in AF mode and you are in full auto mode, since you are still learning. Once you get used to full auto experiment with the other modes.

Posted on 31 Jan 2012 01:33:42 GMT
Randell says:
I don't want to be rude but the last thing you want to do is put the camera in AF (Auto Focus), when you've got a low light situation. The A/F will constantly hunt back and forth looking for enough contrast in the scene to lock onto.
Get yourself a tripod, and start off by setting the camera in Av mode (Aperture Priority). You'll want a large depth of field. So set you're F.Stop to f11 or f16.
Depending on what effect you want, you can experiment with you're exposure by changing the ISO and shutter speed.
So if you want the lights to blur and merge into one another select a longer shutter speed and a lower ISO (eg 100) and a shutter speed of say, 3 seconds.
Or if you want a faster shutter speed to freeze the movement in the sky. Set a higher ISO (eg 800) and a faster shutter speed.
The actual settings will vary on where you point your camera, the metering mode selected (Evaluative would be best), and the available light.
Hope this helps.
e-mail Randell@randelljohnphotography.com
http://www.randelljohnphotography.com/

Posted on 31 Jan 2012 06:54:47 GMT
Many thanks for all your advice, will check them out. That seems to be exactly what it was doing, just going back and forth the lens but not doing anything. Will have another go tonight. Thanks.

Posted on 22 Feb 2012 12:11:30 GMT
Hi, it's most likely it didn't have enough light in order to focus. The only way to tell if a focus has been achieved is to hear for the beeping noise, insufficient focus should flash red in the view finder

In reply to an earlier post on 25 Jun 2012 17:39:12 BDT
JamesH says:
There is one very simple solution and that is "RTFM" that means read the ******* manual.
JamesH

In reply to an earlier post on 25 Jun 2012 18:32:53 BDT
Hi James,
You should know that NOBODY under 30 reads instruction manuals.

Posted on 26 Jan 2013 03:35:36 GMT
Neill says:
LOL Dr G.

Kezza, learn to use your camera on manual.

What you described of the lens moving around is generally called fishing, it happens when you try to photograph moving water too.

Turn off autofocus when shooting at the sky.

If it's dark, turn the ISO number to 3200, turn the f. number to the lowest and turn the shutter speed down to about 1/100th. Then look through the view finder and press the shutter button and see where the light meter says light levels are. If the arrow on the bar is up the right end, that's too much light so change the shutter speed to a faster one like 1/125th.

Manual is not that complicated.

Posted on 30 Jan 2013 14:18:54 GMT
PhilD says:
Everybody should learn the sunny 16 system. Or the sunny 11 system in the slightly less bright UK. I use it with my Zorki & my Spotmatic and I get as consistant results as using the meter on my other film cameras.

Posted on 2 Feb 2013 01:36:23 GMT
jonnyc67 says:
Just a thought Kezza..... You have got a memory card formatted correctly & installed? If so then go with manual focus & you'll probably want to get it on a tripod for night sky shots...

In reply to an earlier post on 2 Feb 2013 06:13:24 GMT
Neill says:
Yeah I'd agree with tripod for night shooting....and maybe a remote shutter release. And for shots of the sky, like Randell said, lots of depth of field.

If Auto focus is on, canon cameras don't like shooting when they can't get a focussed image ie that green circle through the viewfinder flashes and it won't shoot.

With a tripod, you just manually focus to get the stars in focus if you're shooting the sky.

Shooting other stuff around that time would have been good as the 25th was full moon so the most light in countryside areas for night shooting. And you can experiment by setting the aperture to it's widest (f2.4?) which lets the most light in. Probably set your metering to evaluative and play with shutter speeds up to 30 seconds or Bulb which will keep the shutter open for as long as you keep the shutter release button pressed....or if you use a remote, click once for open shutter then again to close.

You'll have to play with ISO for night shots...if you use a tripod and a loooooooong shutter release, you might get away with ISO 100 but it tends to look like everything is glowing but you can get some real odd effects like this. Remember to always shoot in RAW so you can play around with your images after ie especially white balance and shot style.

Jonny67, on canons, it tells you if you have no memory card inserted etc.

Posted on 18 Apr 2013 23:17:27 BDT
MS says:
Get Magic Lantern will sort all your problems out...
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Discussion in:  canon discussion forum
Participants:  10
Total posts:  14
Initial post:  25 Jan 2012
Latest post:  18 Apr 2013

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