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One day, if I do go to heaven, Im going to do what every San Franciscan does who goes to heaven. Ill look around and say, "It aint bad, but it aint San Francisco."
Herb Caen, legendary San Francisco journalist
One of Americas most beautiful cities, and one whose locals are not afraid to harp on such a claim, especially when designing tourist brochures, SAN FRANCISCO sits poised on the 47-square-mile fingertip of a peninsula at the western edge of America the perfect location for a place that considers itself the last stronghold of civilization in Californias lunatic fringe. Indeed, the city has much to gloat about, not least the breathtaking natural beauty that surrounds it from rugged coastline and tranquil bay waters to rambling, fog-capped hills and dense, unspoiled woods. Along the steep streets of the city itself, sit a cluster of distinct neighborhoods by turn quaint or hip, lined by rows of preserved Victorian houses or dotted with chic clubs in converted warehouses. Residents like to think of their home as the cultured northern counterpart to sunny Los Angeles, mass entertainment capital of southern California, and to an extent theyre right this was the place that! birthed the United Nations and became forever associated in the public consciousness with the literary Beat and gay rights movements. Still, San Francisco is undeniably Californian; after all, this is also the city where blue jeans, mountain biking and topless waitressing first took off. From its earliest days as a stop on the Spanish chain of Missions, through its explosive expansion during the Gold Rush and right up into the present-day Internet boom, San Franciscos turbulent history is relatively short. Named for Saint Francis of Assisi, the kindly monk who harbored societys outcasts, the city sprang up almost overnight in the late 1840s from a sleepy fishing village named Yerba Buena. The hilly terrain did not daunt the rough-and-ready prospectors who built on it according to a grid pattern that ignored even the steepest inclines; with its whimsical architecture, its vast irrigated park on the site of a former sand dune, and its cliff-hugging resort buildings, the late nineteenth-century city defied the elements and served as much as a playground as an economic center, luring writers, architects, immigrants, and thousands of transient sailors eager to make it in the newest, westernmost, metropolis. Though earthquakes, fires, droughts, landslides, and oth! er natural disasters have put the citys very existence to the test, residents have never taken long to rebuild and resettle, refusing to give in to natures tantrums. Politically, San Franciscans are known for the same unbreakable character, infusing their city with an activist spirit most evident in the high visibility of once disenfranchised groups, especially Asian-Americans, gays, and people with AIDS. Many visitors to the city today are drawn as much by its nonconformist spirit as by the sights; for some, its a veritable pilgrimage site. But the most common lure of San Francisco is its easy charm with inescapably quaint pastel street scenes and blossoming parks offset by a sophisticated selection of international cuisine and world-class clubs, making it the ideal American city in which to linger without the encumbrance of a serious agenda. Indeed, despite all its activity, San Francisco remains a small town, where having a car is a liability due to traffic-jammed streets and a dearth of parking spaces. Provided you dont mind hills, every major sight in town is a short walk, bike or bus ride away. Though San Francisco is undoubtedly the focus of the Bay Area, theres much in the surrounding parts to take in too. The East Bay is centered around the up-and-coming port city of Oakland and the University of Californias flagship campus in hipster Berkeley. To the south, the Peninsula contains fast-growing Silicon Valley, with San Jose as its hub, home to many computer giants. North of San Francisco, across the Golden Gate Bridge, Marin County boasts enormous wealth in spots like the postcard-perfect towns of Sausalito and Tiburon, plus prime biking and hiking trails in the Marin Headlands. Further north, the lush beauty continues in Californias famed Wine Country.
Synopsis
This guide covers the city of San Francisco taking in all the important sites before moving on to the rest of the Peninsula. Key features include: reviews of restaurants and accommodation in every price range; discussion of the city's history, from Gold Rush beginnings through the Summer of Love to today's gay scene; and detailed neighbourhood and transport maps.
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