Brittany and Normandy: The Rough Guide (Rough Guide Travel Guides) (Paperback)

Of all the strongly individual components of the French nation, Brittany and Normandy are among the most distinct. That sense of a separate identity - in cultures and peoples, landscapes and histories - is undoubtedly a major aspect of their appeal to visitors. A journey through the two regions enables you to experience much of the best that France has to offer: wild coast and sheltered white- sand beaches; sparse heathland and dense forests; medieval ports and evidence of the prehistoric past; and, every bit as important, abundant seafood and (especially in Normandy) a compelling and exuberant cuisine. Brittany

Brittany is the more popular of the two regions, with both French and foreign tourists. Its attractions lie most obviously along the coast, which, speckled with offshore islands and islets, makes up over a third of the seaboard of France. In parts of the north, and in the western region of Finist?re, the shoreline can be nothing but rocks and cliffs, its exposed headlands buffeted by the full force of the Atlantic and swept by dangerous currents. But elsewhere, especially in the sheltered southern resorts around the Morbihan and La Baule, it is caressed by the gentlest of seas, the sands rambling for kilometres or nestled into coves between steep cliffs.

Thanks to the sheer extent of the Breton coastline, it's always possible to find a spot where you can walk alone with the elements. Although in high season it can be hard to find solitude on the sandy beaches or in the small bays with their sun-struck swimmers, there could never be enough visitors to cover all the twists of Finist?re's coast. As well as exploring the mainland resorts and seaside villages - each of which, from ports the size of St-Malo or Vannes down to little-known harbour communities such as Erquy, Le Pouldu, L'Aber-W'rach or Piriac-sur-mer, can be relied upon to offer at least one welcoming, characterful little hotel or restaurant - it's worth making the time to take in at least one of the islands. Boat trips out to these sea-encircled microcosms can be among the most enjoyable highlights of a trip to Brittany. The magical le de Brhat is just a ten-minute crossing from the north coast near Paimpol, while historic Belle-le, to the south, is under an hour from Quiberon. Certain other islands are set aside as bird sanctuaries, while, off Finist?re, the les d'Ouessant and Mol?ne are as remote and strange as Orkney or the Shetland Isles.

The Celtic elements in Brittany are inextricably linked with its seafaring past. Anciently the land was known as Armorica (from the Breton for "the land of the sea", ar-mor), and it was from fishing and shipbuilding, along with occasional bouts of piracy and smuggling, that its people made their living. The harshness of the Breton coast and the poor communications with its interior and with "mainland" France enforced isolation. Christianity took time to establish itself, strongly but idiosyncratically, in a region where Druids survived on the le de Sein until Roman times. Only in 1532 did the territory lose its independence and become a province of France. Even then it was a reluctant partner, treated virtually as a colony by the national government, which until well into the twentieth century felt it necessary to suppress the Breton language and traditions. In recent years there has been something of a reversal, with the language and culture being rediscovered and reasserted. If you are a Celt - Welsh, Scots or Irish - you will find shared vocabulary, and great appreciation in their use. For everyone, though, the traditions are active, accessible and enjoyable at the various Inter-Celtic festivals, the largest of which takes place at Lorient in early August.

Times even before the Celts are evoked by the vast wealth of megalithic remains scattered across Brittany. The single most famous site is Carnac, whose spectacular alignments of menhirs may have been erected as part of a prehistoric observatory. Lesser-known but equally compelling remains include the extraordinary burial tumuli on the island of Gavrinis, in the gulf of Morbihan, and at Barnenez outside Morlaix in the north. Not all such relics are found near the sea; the moors and woodlands of inland Brittany, too, conceal unexpected ancient treasures. This is the realm of legend, with the forests of Huelgoat and Paimpont in particular - left-overs from Brittany's mythic dark ages - identified with the tales of Merlin, the Fisher King and the Holy Grail. In the Little Britain of King Arthur's domain, an other-worldly element still seems entrenched in the land and people.

Synopsis
This guide to one of France's most popular regions includes first-hand reviews of places to stay and eat, accounts of the area's history, culture and archaological sites, the World War II sites and the architecture, as well as tips on reaching unexplored beaches and isolated villages.

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