The Rough Guide to Languedoc and Roussillon (Rough Guide Travel Guides) (Paperback)

After the Romans it was the turn of local nobility, the counts of Toulouse and Barcelona respectively, to dominate Languedoc and Roussillon. Their wealth prompted a cultural renaissance in the Middle Ages, providing for the building of the sumptuously decorated and ubiquitous Romanesque churches and monasteries which still characterize the region, and engendering a mood of enlightenment as courtly troubadours and pilgrims en route to Santiago crossed the whole territory. Both left their mark, but the golden age wasn’t to last, and in Languedoc popular dissatisfaction with the Church led to the following of a new – heretical – religion, Catharism, catalyst for the bloody series of wars known as the Albigensian Crusades. The military onslaught from the north and subsequent purge wrought destruction on the lands, leaving behind a record of events remembered with bitterness even now, and a string of spectacular and dramatically sited medieval fortresses, some restored like the cit! e of Carcassonne to their glory, others, like the Cathars’ last redoubt at Montségur, left as desolate and romantic ruins. And as if this period wasn’t unsettling enough, after three hundred years of submission to the crown and a brief period of prosperity based on dye manufacture – resulting in Toulouse’s most opulent mansions – Languedoc rose up in rebellion again, this time as part of the Huguenot movement. The ensuing Religious Wars left the region scarred, repressed by autocratic rule and, with already poor Roussillon absorbed by the French crown too, marginalized and neglected. Even today it remains one of the least populated and poorest regions in the country.

But Languedoc and Roussillon are recovering. The principal cities of Toulouse and Montpellier are now bustling metropolises of industry and administration, injected with an alluring vibrancy by their university life, while towns such as Nimes and Perpignan are managing to pull themselves out of a centuries-long slumber, their streets buzzing with people keen to savour a distinctive Mediterranean atmosphere and take in the new museums, art galleries and shops sprouting up across this part of the country. Away from the cities the mainstay is wine production, but tourism runs a close second. Languedoc’s long sandy Mediterranean coast, lacking the overexploitation of the Cote d’Azur, has made it a prime destination for summer-time beach-goers, the coastal towns chock-full of facilities for every type of watersport imaginable. And this is only the tip of the activities iceberg. The Languedoc and Roussillon region is crisscrossed by an extensive network of long- and short-range hiki! ng trails, or, if walking is too slow, you can opt to putt along the placid Canal du Midi in a converted barge, rent a vélo in just about any hamlet and pedal on the well-maintained bike trails, or chug up into the mountains on restored narrow-gauge train lines. The ranches of the Petite Camargue offer ample opportunity for horsemanship, and the high valleys of the Pyrenees are peppered by ski resorts for the winter, while summer is the season for mule-trekking, canyoning and caving. Add to this a calendar packed with festivals ranging from local wine fetes to the bullfights of Nimes, from the traditional Catalan sardana dances of Roussillon to the cavalcades of horsemen and water-jousting revelry of Camarguaise celebrations and, in short, you have a variety which few parts of France, or indeed Europe, can match.

Diversity is also a feature of Languedoc and Roussillon’s cuisine, which, though it shares in the finest Gallic culinary traditions, has in turn been infused by recent influences: immigration, both from Europe and abroad, has brought additional variety, with a strong Spanish influence complementing the already singular Catalan cookery of Roussillon, and Maghrebi and African newcomers adding a piquant element. In every village and town you’ll find the solid, delicious terroir fare on which the region has subsisted for centuries: hearty cassoulet, foie gras, duck, a whole range of pork sausages and cheeses, fruits, nuts and olives from the sunbaked hills of Roussillon and Hérault, as well as truffles, mushrooms and other local products. Though it tends to get overshadowed by neighbouring regions, Languedoc and Roussillon is no slouch when it comes to wine either. Gaillac, from near Albi, is the oldest and most respected of the local appellations, but the eminently drinkable wine! s of the Corbières and Cabardes are also well reputed. Even if you’re not a connoisseur you should take the opportunity to try out unique local vintages, such as Limoux’s blanquette or the "sand wine" of the Petite Camargue.

WHEN TO GO Languedoc and Roussillon is an exciting region to visit at any time of the year, all the more so because of its gentle climate. The weather is rarely extreme, although August temperatures can come close to sweltering, and mountain evenings remain cool all year round. Pack with this in mind, and bring along at least a jumper and raincoat, even if you’re coming in the warmer months. Many activities and events in the region are restricted by season. This doesn’t apply so much if you’re sticking to the major towns and architectural highlights – you’re better off avoiding high-season accommodation prices and hassles, particularly in places like Carcassonne, Pézenas and Cordes, and entertainment and nightlife tend to be better out of season too, but apart from that you’ve no major worries. Getting off the beaten track out of season, however, will need more careful planning, as many museums and monuments have very short hours from October to May, and restaurants and hotels frequently board up for the winter. Bus services are also liable to change; in summer months coastal services increase, while rural ones (often for school children) scale down. Likewise, most outdoor activities are limited by season: swimming and watersports are practical from late June to early September, canal boating from April to November, and skiing from December to April (sometimes lon! ger depending on the weather). Other activities, like hiking, can be done year round, but bear in mind the potential both for high temperatures in summer and unpredictable weather in the mountains.

In addition, the cultural and sporting calendar may determine when you want to travel. You’ll find colourful folk festivals and musical events taking place just about every month, but you might want to plan your visit to coincide with, say, a bullfight, in which case you should visit between Easter and September. Rugby leagues adjourn for the summer, while the coastal water-jousts are only held from June to September. Many towns have their local fete in late summer or early autumn, timed as often as not with the local harvest, and this time of year also sees a profusion of theatre and music festivals. Bastille Day (July 14) and Midsummer’s Day (June 24) are major national celebrations, while Setmana Santa (Holy Week) in Roussillon, has a distinctly Catalan flavour. All things considered the best month to visit is probably June, when the weather is warm but not hot and you’ve got the widest range of activities and events, without the crowds of July and August. Next best are the "shoulder" seasons of late spring (mid-April to May) and early autumn (Sept to mid-Oct) – particularly good if you plan on doing a lot of hiking or biking. But even if you do go in peak season, you can easily escape the crowds by wandering off the beaten path; you’ll find that even a slight detour from a bustling town or city can bring you to a village where you’ll find no shortage of accommodation, and a bit of peace. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.