Hebridean Island Hopping: A Guide for the Independent Traveller by Martin Coventry |
Western Scotland and the Western Isles (OS Travel Map - Road) (OS Travel Map - Road Map) by Ordnance Survey |
by Francis Thompson
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by Francis Thompson
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Barra and South Uist, Vatersay and Eriskay (Landranger Maps) (OS Landranger Map) by Ordnance Survey |
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The islands were referred to by Scottish Gaels as Innse Gall - Islands of Strangers - the Norsemen. They are also called the Outer Hebrides - "Hebrides" probably arose from the Greek "Hebudes" by mistranscription. Today the Gaelic influence remains strong, but Norse is still evident in many of the place-names. About 27,000 people inhabit 12 of the islands, with the majority of the population living in Lewis (about 22,000). The main town and ferry port is Stornoway with a population of about 8,000.
From Scotland the Western Isles appear as a long series of hilltops on the horizon, and when approached from the east they at first seem rocky and bleak, with many inlets and small rocky islands. In contrast, on the west side there are many sandy beaches and attractive bays, with relatively few high cliffs.
Communications with Mainland Scotland are very good. The Isle of Lewis runs between Stornoway and Ullapool, while The Hebrides connects Tarbert in Harris with Uig in Skye and Lochmaddy in North Uist. In the south, the Clansman links Lochboisdale in South Uist and Castlebay in Barra with Oban. Scalpay is connected to Harris by a bridge, while Eriskay, Berneray and Vatersay have causeways now. There is a ferry link between Harris and North Uist, and also from South Uist to Barra. Air links with Inverness and Glasgow and an inter-island air service are run by British Airways Express. Highland Airways operates services to Inverness.
Although the earliest written references to the islands are probably in the Norse sagas, which date from the 12th century, it is possible that Pytheas the Greek may have visited Lewis around 325BC during his voyage, when he established the latitude of the Stornoway area. It was not until the late 17th century, however, that detailed accounts began to be made about visits to the area. In more recent times many eminent people have visited the Western Isles and a number have written in various terms about their experiences.
There are a number of distinguished local authors, and there is always a good selection of local books available in the bookshops, many in Gaelic. The library in Stornoway has a good reference section for those wishing to consult the many books which are "out of print".
The purpose of this Guide is to help visitors to the islands appreciate the Western Isles and enjoy their time here to the full. The idea is that the reader can assimilate information without effort and yet rapidly find out what he or she would most like to see and do, depending on interest, season or weather. There are so many things to see and do that a lifetime is not long enough!
Although the landscape is beautiful, history everywhere, and wildlife to rival anywhere on Earth, there is another aspect of the islands which is perhaps the most important and rewarding to get to know - the local people themselves. They are a friendly, hospitable people, mindful and respectful of their past and at the same time go-ahead and industrious. Do not hesitate to ask the way, or about things - you are sure to get a courteous reply - and if you are lucky you might get a few good stories as well! There is a saying in the Western Isles that "When God made time he made plenty of it", which describes the apparent pace of life in the islands rather well.
A good map is a great help on all such visits and the Tourist Board produces a useful one on a scale of 1:125,000. The Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 series covers the Western Isles in six sheets, and is recommended for all serious explorers. While many of the places mentioned in this book are signposted, many are not, and OS references are thus given for many sites of interest.
About the Author
Charles Tait is based in the Orkney Islands, off the north coast of Scotland. After taking a BSc in Genetics in Edinburgh, he did a PhD in Biochemistry in Aberdeen, followed by postdoctoral time at Gif sur Yvette in France. Returning to Orkney in 1977 "for a few months" the family is still there.
Magnus studied Chemistry at Edinburgh University, and has done extensive travelling mostly to USA and Japan. Thorfinn read English also at Edinburgh and spent three years on the JET programme in Japan. He is still there and now married to Kika. Charles has developed his passion for photography into a business, and now travels far and wide in search of new images.
The publishing and photo library aspects of the business have come to the fore in recent years, especially with the publication of many postcards and calendars plus the new range of Guide Books, which now covers Orkney, Shetland and the Western Isles with more titles to come.
Charles is very keen on landscape, seacape and nature photography, especially of islands. The Picture Library of course includes all sorts of commercial subjects as well. Originally a Kodachrome fan (and still one), he used mostly Velvia 6x7 or 645, for many years until converting wholly to digital in 2002..
Boats are a Tait family obsession, and the family motorboat "Shaalder" will be 60 in 2008. She allows visits to the 60 or so uninhabited islands in our archipelago. Sailing is of course another great interest, now usually charter trips to places like St Kilda. The very short summer season in Orkney makes boating difficult as we are so busy in these short months (which have long hours of daylight).
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