Most Helpful Customer Reviews
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13 of 14 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
A privileged spectator, 21 May 2003
By A Customer
Walter Harris settled in Morocco after dropping out of Cambridge and drifting around the war. He made many contacts with locals from all walks of life, from bandits to the Sultan and used this network to wto establish himself as one of the foremost journalists in the region.This book is a memoir of the last sultans before the French established their protectorate. It deals primarily with the foibles of a royal line deliberately seperated from the plight of their people, the corruption of shiny trinkets and Western inventions. But this is not a sermon: Harris revels in the gossipy, slightly fantastical nature of his anecdotes and presents an afectionate portrait of Moroccan royalty, men who were also his friends. Of greatest interest for those already interested in the country and a perfect counterpoint to dry colonial histories, this might be rather a struggle for the North African novice but rewards perseverance
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars
A different side of Morocco, 28 Jul 2007
The Morocco that Walter Harris encountered over a century ago was one that saw few travellers and only a handful of diplomatic respresentatives; insular, thoroughly corrupt and fragmented by tribal divisions, it was hostile territory and deeply conservative. Yet Harris, an itinerant wanderer with a fondness for the Moroccan people and a great sense of curiosity, became - thanks to his tolerance and understanding - privy to the workings of the Court and confidante to Sultans, which makes this a unique travelogue. The viziers and overlords Harris describes are exuberant, scheming characters, such as Mulai Aziz, the boy-Sultan with no sense of the value of money, and Raisuli, a high-born renegade who rises to despotic ruler of the northern territories. The writer had shared intimate conversations with these and other influential personalities of that time, and he exposes their more human characteristics - their frailty, their love of practical jokes, or their sense of loyalty.
Essentially a historical account of one of Morocco's most turbulent eras, as it faced up to its long decline and inevitable subjugation by the European powers, the writing is powerful enough to give a sense of Morocco's idiosyncrasies today: the playful people with a strong sense of faith and self-preservation, the ornate but faded architecture, the oriental luxuriousness. Some of Harris's anecdotes are chilling, others funny, and others lyrical or poignant, such as this observation of the lost splendour of Fes:
"There is scarcely a view of Fes that is not beautiful, scarcely a glimpse that is not sad. Its very colouring, or perhaps lack of colouring; its amazing alleys into which the sun never shines; its ruined mosques, rich in fast-falling mosaics and woodcarving, in rotten arabesques and grass-grown roofs..."
Despite some doubts over the entire veracity of Harris's narrative, it's an entertaining one and a perfect introduction for those interested in Morocco's colourful history.
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