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70 of 77 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars
As much for entertainment as for information, 8 Oct 2004
If you have not read Anthony Bourdain's "Kitchen Confidential", the Les Halles Cookbook will be a rude shock to you. You have to appreciate that AB is a working chef, not a TV cook like many of those we see on TV in the UK.In his own words, the Les Halles Cookbook doesn't have any new recipes. They are all French bistro classics that he has translated for the domestic audience. So exactly what is new, and what is the point? ENtertainment for one. Written in the same brash, rude, honest style as Kitchen Confidential, AB pulls no punches in letting you know what he thinks of the mainstay of domestic cooking. He tells you why restaurant food tastes like restaurant food, and why home-cooked meals often don't. He is quite explicit in his love for food and being adventurous with it. The price of the book is well worth it for his tips on the finer points - like stock making, buying produce and which cuts of meat work with which dish. Also, every recipe is annotated with his notes and observations on the dish. The strength of this book is that because there are no new recipes (no ego-inflated "inventions"), and they are all bistro dishes - this means that they are all recipes that will realistically be eaten and tried (with the possible exception of steak tartare). There are no insane combinations of Venison and chocolate, or fried flowering asparagus. Just traditional fare that has had the professional touches explained and translated. Some people will not like Bourdain's style or manner - but if you want a restaurant chef's opinion, you have to ask a working chef. If you want home cooking with margarine and stock cubes; look at Delia or Nigella. If you are ready for real demi-glace and shedloads of butter - Bourdain's your man. I cannot stress this enough, you really have to read Kitchen Confidential to get a handle on this man. An excellent book, that has a specific place on your shelf.
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