Review
In this memoir, food writer Ruth Reichl, author of the acclaimed TENDER AT THE BONE, dishes up a celebration of love, life, humour and the pleasures of the table.
This book lifts your spirits. Dip into it again and again and give it to your favourite friends. Reichl is a food writer, the editor in chief of Gourmet magazine, and she tells here how, after years of what she calls 'righteous poverty', she began her career as a restaurant critic. Self-deprecating and funny, her story is a joy to read and has the added treat of lots of scrumptious-sounding recipes, for as well as being a critic she is a splendid cook. The magazines and newspapers which employed her soon realized that they had a treasure and sent her far and wide to report on new restaurants and food events. Squired around Paris by a more experienced critic, she was introduced to classic dishes and sublime wines. Course after course is lovingly described in dazzling language; of scrambled egg with truffles she says, 'Each forkful was like biting off a piece of the sun. It was like musk and light, all at once.' It never seems to occur to her to be restrained in her opinions; if she loves the food then she lets her enthusiasm show. Always ready for new taste sensations, she ate jellyfish and fried pig skin in China and bulls' balls and slugs in Barcelona. She tells of her nervous beginnings as a critic and also of her parents, her husband and how she has fallen in and out of love. These stories - honest, moving and often painting her in a less than favourable light - add a welcome depth and enjoyment to the book. One small cavil - the European reader could do with a glossary of American culinary terms, some of which are baffling. What does a stick of butter weigh? And what on earth is one and three quarter cups of half and half? But never mind - all else pales into insignificance with the joys of Reichl's Big Chocolate Cake. (Kirkus UK)
Elizabeth Luard
Fast, funny, always near the knuckle
The best kind of food writing it makes you hungry'
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