by Claudia Roden
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by Claudia Roden
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The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey from Samarkand and Vilna to the Present Day by Claudia Roden |
Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons: Enchanting Dishes from the Middle East, Mediterranean and North Africa by Diana Henry |
by Claudia Roden
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Amazon.co.uk Review
The ravishing cover of Tamarind and Saffron, brilliant yellow quinces in a blue-glazed dish, hints at the pleasures within its covers. Claudia Roden has subtitled the book "Favourite Recipes from the Middle East", and it is no more and no less than this. Eschewing the broad historical and geographical panorama that so enriched The Book of Jewish Food, she concentrates solely on the food, putting together a collection of recipes from the Middle East that are light, fresh, delicious and immensely evocative. The enticing aromas of North Africa rise from its pages, expressed in the differing spice-dialects of the national cuisines--the coriander, cinnamon, cumin, honey, orange-blossom water, preserved lemon, mint. The dishes range from the simplest of mezze to elaborate feast dishes but there is nothing that is remotely difficult. At the minimalist end of the scale, "Squid with Garlic and Chillies" is just that--the three briefly fried together; "Artichokes, Broad Beans and Almonds" combines unexpected ingredients to exquisite effect; and the Quince Dessert simply poaches the fruit in a light syrup, allowing its magical flavour to predominate. More demanding dishes include the spectacular " Pigeons Stuffed with Cous cous", the very elegant "Turkish Lamb Stew with Aubergine Cream Sauce" and "Roast Leg of Lamb with Meat, Rice and Nut Stuffing" (standing for that grandest of Arab dishes, whole stuffed baby lamb). And then there are the sweet dishes. This is an endlessly fascinating book, its deceptive simplicity masking a profound knowledge of the region's food. Really, as critics tend to say, one could cook from it forever. --Robin Davidson
--This text refers to the
Paperback
edition.
Amazon.co.uk Review
Claudia Roden's beautiful new book, Tamarind and Saffron, marks a return to the food of her origins and of her first book, the ground-breaking Book of Middle Eastern Food. It also signals something of a return, after the historical and cultural investigations of the acclaimed Book of Jewish Food, to food pure and simple. Perhaps half of the recipes in the new book are favourites from that first volume but, in recognition that Middle Eastern food is a complex and living tradition subject to national, regional, local and even family variation, many of these are given in new forms. These new versions may represent a lighter form, with oil instead of butter, with shorter cooking times and baking instead of frying; or they may illustrate the different view another national tradition might take of spicing, with Moroccan garlic, saffron, ginger and preserved lemon replaced by Syrian allspice and cinnamon, or Tunisian harissa. So, for example, you might care to try the ravishing succession of "Celeriac and Carrots with a Hazelnut and Yoghurt Sauce", "Moroccan Pumpkin Soup", "Spinach Pies with Raisins and Pine Nuts", "Squid with Garlic and Chillis", "Quails with Grapes", "Lamb with Quince", "Iranian Sweet Jewelled Rice", "Prunes Stuffed with Walnuts in Orange Juice", "Pistachio Ice Cream". This really is one of the great world cuisines, at its best representing fantastically sophisticated cooking. Claudia Roden is rightly regarded as one of its greatest exponents. --Robin Davidson
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