Barry Forshaw
As we grow more obsessed with cuisine, it was inevitable that books would appear detailing the history of this modern preoccupation. And Nicola Humble's detailed (but highly accessible)
Culinary Pleasures is as balanced a look at the subject as one could wish. Humble conjures the early history of the field, via a portrait of the venerable Mrs Beeton (from an era which now seems impossibly remote to us), before having some affectionate fun at the expense of the eccentric menus of the day, taking in the beginning of food tourism with Lady Jekyll's 1922 kitchen essays.
Humble is equally diverting on the modern phenomenon of TV celebrity chefs.
But as well as the social history, there is a choice selection of menus, which will have the reader springing out of the armchair into the kitchen. Unlike so many cookery books, the language here leaps off the page, as in this description of the modern sexual division of cookery writing:
The genre emerged as very gender-specific, with women placing eating and cooking in the context of familial life, while men glossed it with the allure of macho adventuring. The latter tendency is typified by Anthony Bourdains Kitchen Confidential, which notoriously revealed the violence, dirt and deceptions of the restaurant kitchen in a swaggering, macho punk style that AA Gill described as Elizabeth David written by Quentin Tarantino.
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The final effect of Humble's diverting book is actually tinged with a certain pride in culinary Britishness. She argues that we have been too long ashamed of our cultural heritage, typified by the fact that we all tacitly accept that British food has only recently been saved from terminal decline. Not so, Culinary Pleasures argues: we have long had plenty to celebrate. --Barry Forshaw
Elisabeth Luard, Literary Review
'A terrific book: a thoughtful, intelligent, highly readable account of the influence of the written word on Britain's culinary habits.'
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