This is one of the good ones. If you are a true 'foodie' (blech, what a word) it will be no surprise to you that this sort of 'old school' cooking is rather de rigueur these days and rightly so. Much maligned Britain is currently enjoying a coast at the fore front of 'modern' cookery whether you want to sample molecular gastronomy, samey Michelin fare, or good cooks like Simon that are so far out...they are in. The best of London at the mo is all chop houses and 'grandes brasseries'. I'll get my kicks at HIX rather than Hospital Road, thank-you very much. And as for being grumpy...too right! A cook without opinions is a meal without flavour. Take this to the bank- Simon's recipes work, which is more than I can say for flailing Gordo. Simon writes from the heart with a head full of knowledge in his wee kitchen, enjoy his certain take on classic, unfussy fare. Up there with the classic 'Roast Chicken'