This is an intelligent book, easy to read, laced with humour and very absorbing. It does essentially everything that the blurb on the back says it does, so there's little point describing the contents, except to point out that it stays just the right side of madcap (the "R" reflected as if a Russian "Ya", and the over-enthusiasm of the back cover text, did make me worry a bit until I got into the book). Mole is a serious businessman out to make money, not deliberately seeking out a comedo-journalistic dose of craziness. However, some of the situations he comes across - individuals with unusual or even astonishing personal histories (or at least claiming to - the author often sounds a wisely sceptical note, but, like Herodotus, repeats the story as he heard it), chaotic political events, and entire subcultures that could only have emerged in a period of great upheaval - are satisfyingly surreal. Although Mole can see the funny side of things, he also is acutely aware of the human cost of change, and underneath the humour, this is a portrait of Russia, especially its shadier economic underbelly, that is both humane and deeply disturbing.
Other reviews (particularly on the U.S. Amazon) are correct to point out that Mole himself tends to dominate this book - like many travelogues it is as much about the man as the place he's visiting. Mole's eye and ear for comedy are not as pitch-perfect as Bill Bryson, say, and his personality does risk becoming grating, but his openness and measured self-deprecation do help allay this. Without thrusting it in the reader's face, he creates the clear impression of being a highly cultured man, a Slavophile and an experienced, albeit surprisingly naive, businessperson - and on reflection this is more or less the perfect combination for an explorer of a chaotic, dynamic and highly diverse society with deep historic roots. Because Mole is a businessman he gets far more closely engaged in the system than a "just passing by" travel writer would do, and is therefore more revealing - particularly when his naivety or curiosity get the better of him. But he is also sensitive to far more than the financial prospects of the situation.
This book is about events in the couple of years directly after the collapse of the USSR so isn't really intended to be a guide to the "Modern Russia", but was written sufficiently later for there to be added retrospective insight. A good example of this is the not-quite-meeting with future-President Vladimir Putin, then a relatively minor politician in local government. (Although something of a non-event, this does show the murky environment where Putin cut his political teeth in - had this book been written closer to the events, Putin's significance would have gone totally unremarked!) The critical comment here about Kroshka Kartoshka seems to be based on the false assumption that this is a book about Russia in the 2000s - in fact in the book itself, Mole briefly describes how Kroshka Kartoshka has thrived where he failed.