The story of an obsession, this book is about surfing in Hawaii. It is also the tale of the author's clumsy initiation into the surfing cult and culture.
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4 of 4 people found the following review helpful
By A Customer
Format:Paperback
Andy Martin is a University lecturer and surfer - a combination that makes this book - an account of his travels to the North Shore - both intelligent and fascinating. From his less than competent initial attempts at surfing in Hawaii to his relationships with the diverse people who collonise those shores, this is a book for surfers or travellers.
The weaving of his travel story, the history of surfing and that year's surfing world championship competition make this a truly good winter read when the water is cold and the days are short.
If this appeals, then also recommended is 'Caught on the Inside' by Daniel Duane - another book written by a University researcher taking time off from academia to surf and hang out with surfers, in this case on California's northern coast.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
An account of the authors winter season on the North Shore of Hawaii. During the year of Martin Potter's brief reign at the top of the ASP ratings, Andy Martin travels to Hawaii to both cover the penultimate contests of the ASP tour and to delve deeper into the surfing lifestyle of Oahu's surfing community, which embodies the traditional surfing lifestyle. As someone who has surfed in Hawaii, (though never in substantial surf) I found this book truely enjoyable. Martin has the ability to capture not only the various characters that make up the north shore surfing fraternity but also capture the very soul of the sport. In short: a little masterpiece.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
By A Customer
Format:Paperback
Just read this book - its fantastic. An account of how the author delved into the surfing culture in Hawaii, met the big names, surfed some of the classic breaks and lived the life. The descriptions are very accurate, this is a book that makes you just want to get in the car and go. I cant comment from a non surfer perspective, but from a surfing angle its definately the best book of its ilk printed so far.
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