Most people tend to remember Robert Louis Stevenson for his classic novels Treasure Island and Kidnapped. Few know that he was also a very accomplished travel writer. He was a man who enjoyed travel, and writing about those experiences. When he died he was buried on Mount Vaea, on the island of Upolo in the Samoan Pacific island group, many miles away from his Scottish birthplace. His first published work in 1878, was a little travel book called "An Inland Voyage", recalling a canoe trip in Belgium and France. This was followed shortly after by "Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes". Later he also wrote the companion pieces "The Amateur Emigrant" and "Across the Plains". It would be nice to have this entire collection in one penguin volume, but this is certainly the next best thing. This edition pairs "Travels with a Donkey" with "The Amateur Emigrant", and it is of course a delightful combination!
In "Travels with a Donkey" Stevenson recalls a solo 12 day, 120 mile hiking journey he made through the then impoverished Cevennes area in Southern France. It is an area of barren, rocky hillsides, which whilst beautiful was difficult terrain for the traveller. It was a terrain that Stevenson as a proud Scotsman would have been familiar with. Stevenson paints a vivid portrait of the colourful characters he meets. But perhaps his most descriptive writing was reserved for his strong willed donkey Modestine, a creature that had a character and mind all of its own. These are perhaps the amusing highlights of the book. The book has become strongly associated with the Cevennes area, as you will find when reading many travel articles about the area. But most importantly of all, it is still an entertaining and well written account. It is quite rightly regarded as a pioneering classic of outdoor travel.
In "The Amateur emigrant" Stevenson writes of his experiences whilst romancing his future American wife Fanny, who was scandalously already married. When Fanny was summoned back to her husbands home in San Francisco, the love smitten Stevenson set off in amorous pursuit. He decided that he would do so by ship, and wanted to see how the other half lived by travelling steerage. His friends persuaded him to go one class up from this, which still left him amongst the lower classes. A decision he did not regret when he saw conditions in steerage! He writes enthusiastically of those experiences, and the turbulent crossing of the Atlantic. His father was so shocked that his son had travelled in such low circumstances, that he had the book suppressed for a number of years. The younger Stevenson clearly had a deep social conscience similar to that of George Orwell. The book is an excellent read.
If you have never read the travel books of Robert Louis Stevenson, then you are in for a treat. They are the ideal holiday read. Nothing too heavy, imbued with a great sense of fun, with the happy result that they have not dated at all. They are as good a read today as they were when they were first published over a hundred years ago. In fact I would even go so far as to say, that like the very finest ports they have even improved with age.