Tibet's Secret Mountain : The Triumph of Sepu Kangri [Hardcover]

All the books written by Chris Bonnigton are a good read, particularly for those of us interested in mountaineering and related topics. However "Tibet's Secret Mountain" goes beyond all previous publications, it will be of interest to a far greater number of people.

The chapters, mainly written by Dr Charles Clarke, covering the relationships developed with the local people, in this previously little known area of Tibet, are absolutely brilliant.

One can almost smell the smokey yak dung fires and taste the pigs ears, trotters and the local butter tea. The way people travelled to meet the exploreres, for treatment of illness, was reminissent of personal experiences in remote areas of northern India and Pakistan.

The fact that the final target of the expedition was not achieved is of little consequence. The experiences of all involved, so brilliantly presented in this book, give us, the armchair explorer, a far greater insight into a part of the world, and its people, that has suffered so much unnecessary hardship but have managed to adapt, keep their faith and survive.

Thank you Chris Bonnington and Charles Clarke.

`Tibet's Secret Mountain' (sub-titled `The Triumph of Sepu Kangri') is an account by Sir Christian Bonington and Dr. Charles Clarke covering the three years 1996-1998 of their explorations to first find, and then make attempts to climb an unknown mountain. Bonington and Clarke were already authors and had been together before the Sepu Kangri series of expeditions - with this account they have combined to produce much more than a mountaineering book. It is a delightful story of discovery and exultation. In 1982 on an internal flight in China to Lhasa they first saw the peak on their way to Everest. For climbers Tibet was then a forbidden land and neither the name of the mountain nor its location was known.

The authors adopt an entertaining as well as informative approach. They quote one another but take responsibility for writing various chapters. Chris Bonington describes how information on the peak became available - identified as Sepu Kangri, at 6956 metres the highest in a range called Nyenchen Tanglha that stretches across Tibet. Charles Clarke presents a fascinating record of missionaries, mapmakers and the military over the period 1160 to 1940, followed by an incredible story of how a friendly postmistress supplied a photograph of Sepu Kangri and gave directions how to get there. In 1996 the pair carried out a reconnaissance which Chris reckons to be one of the best trips he had ever undertaken, with a quality of adventure not experienced since his first Himalayan trip to Annapurna. Though little climbing was accomplished the mountain was located, experience was gained, and plans began for a full scale expedition the next year.

For 1997 their target was the summit of Sepu Kangri. In addition to a climbing team there was a high-tech element with arrangements for satellite communications and a web site run from base camp. Chris Bonington is the main narrator on climbing matters, and in spite of the mountain remaining unclimbed there was abundant excitement in attempts and retreat. In 1998 for the third expedition there was an exploratory party and a climbing party. Charles Clarke headed up the exploration and he provides a commentary on the people and culture of the area. He humorously describes the bureaucratic difficulties, physical hardships and gastronomic sufferings experienced by his exploratory team on the long journey to circle round Sepu Kangri and approach from a new direction. With the climbing party Chris Bonington takes up the climbing story after teams met and reached base camp together, with an interspersed account by Charles Clarke of an ectopic pregnancy, satellite consultations, successful emergency action and insights into Buddhist culture. Chris Bonington chronicles another failure to reach the main summit but they tried hard, they came close, and minor peaks were achieved in good style and with self reliance.

An atmosphere of mystery and veneration created from first reconnaissance continues throughout the book and makes `Tibet's Secret Mountain' special. Chris Bonington and Charles Clarke's enthusiasm for discovery of unknown lands and understanding of peoples is palpable, and their esprit de corps maintained over the three attempts is the triumph of Sepu Kangri.

Chris Bonington is one of my favourite adventure writers - whilst I love the mountains I am not a climber but he can express what it must feel like to reach the summit after stretching yourself to the limit better than any other writer.

The summit in this case remains elusive, but that is immaterial as Bonington and Clarke weave a story of classic adventure in a little explored region of Tibet. Their journeys sometimes are wonderfully unprepared, even the experts can get it wrong, but they clearly had a wonderful time.

This is probably Bonington's swansong on major peaks, but what an expedition to end with. Wish I'd been there with them!