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Norah Waugh's book has, for many years, been the definitive work of reference for teachers and students of fashion design, for dress designers, for costume makers - and anyone who is seriously interested in the history and construction of women's clothes.
Each period in the history of costume has produced its own characteristic line and silhouette, and the book includes numerous patterns taken from actual dresses, many of them rare museum specimens, illustrated by line sketches of the garments themselves. There are detailed notes on the production of women's dress with diagrams from and references to early technical books and journals.
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I didn't know what "bombazine" was until I read its Glossary; I had never heard of Lucile until I turned to Diagram 67; I had never seen the accounts of Poiret and Lucile claiming to have both abolished the corset until I read the Quotations from Contemporary sources. Reading Jane Austen's descriptions of what her modiste planned for her next gown is amusing, as well as the anecdotes involving long trains.
This book is about more than the cut of women's clothes; it is an exegesis of costume history as seen through the eyes of its wearers and makers. It exalts the humble professions of seamstresses and patternmakers, and inspires modern designers through a scholarly reverence for technique.
I have graded up several of the patterns to usable working specs, but I don't recommend this to the casual sewer; one must have a solid background in pattern drafting to attempt this. (Although the Vionnet "flapper" dress is a good project for the beginner.) If you're a hard-core pattern collector and enthusiast, you need this book. If you're looking for EZ instructions for a period costume, buy a Folkwear pattern.
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