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The Wildest Dream: Conquest of Everest
 
 
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The Wildest Dream: Conquest of Everest [Paperback]

Mark MacKenzie
3.6 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (8 customer reviews)
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Product details

  • Paperback: 256 pages
  • Publisher: John Murray (5 Aug 2010)
  • Language English
  • ISBN-10: 071952492X
  • ISBN-13: 978-0719524929
  • Product Dimensions: 13 x 2 x 19.8 cm
  • Average Customer Review: 3.6 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (8 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Bestsellers Rank: 207,124 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Product Description

Review

‘Good solid stuff ... [MacKenzie] has done a terrific job in conveying the misery, danger and exhilaration of life on the world’s tallest mountain ... a superb yarn of high adventure’

(BBC Focus Magazine )

‘Impressive book ... MacKenzie deals with the issue deftly’

(TLS )

'Faced with a plethora of material, Mark MacKenzie rose to the challenge triumphantly, marrying impeccable research to a sensitive feel for the extraordinary range of emotions experienced by those who challenge this extraordinary range. If the film is half as good, Oscars beckon'

(Independent on Sunday )

Product Description

Everest was, to George Mallory, ‘the wildest dream’. This gentleman adventurer was obsessed with taming the unconquered peak. But in 1924 he and climbing partner Sandy Irvine disappeared forever into the clouds encircling the peak. Might they have reached the summit before their tragedy? It is mountaineering’s greatest mystery.

Seventy-five years later, Conrad Anker made an extraordinary discovery. He spotted ‘a patch of white’ on Everest’s North Face. It was Mallory’s frozen body. Artefacts found on Mallory’s body implied that he might have made it to the top. But that route had never since been climbed without modern equipment. Was it possible?


To find out Anker returned to Everest, with death-defying young ‘rock star’ of climbing Leo Houlding as his partner. Kitted out in period clothing, they set off to replicate the unaided climb. Mallory’s fate was a chilling reminder of the mountain’s might. But they knew that to solve Everest’s greatest mystery they must push their very limits.


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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews
10 of 10 people found the following review helpful
Impressive 17 Dec 2009
By Foxylock TOP 500 REVIEWER
Format:Hardcover
12.50 pm on June 8 1924, Noel Odell looks toward the summit ridge of Everest, his gaze becomes transfixed on two slow moving " dark specks ", watching intently his view is obscured by the sudden appearance of a malevolent storm cloud. Odell pushes the nagging doubts and dark sense of foreboding to the back of his mind and focuses on the task at hand, supporting the summit bid of George Mallory and Sandy Irvine. For decades the " Mother Godess of the World " would keep hidden the answer to the burning question. Did they make it ?

May 1 1999, Conrad Anker and a small party of climbers were 26000 feet high on the North side of Everest. Searching an area pinpointed by a German mountaineering student as the most likely resting place of Mallory and Irvine, Anker strayed off the search grid. What happened next was to bring him both fame and notoriety, some daylight was to be shed on the mountains biggest mystery. To find the body of George Mallory was akin to finding the Holy Grail, a triumph. However, disturbing the remains, prising him from the mountain, searching the pockets and even cutting some flesh from the forearm for DNA testing was labeled " high altitude grave robbery ". The media flashed inappropriate photos around the globe and the villification of Anker was replete with angry quotes from the most respected mountaineers including Sir Edmund Hillary and Chris Bonnington.

Upset by the criticism but undeterred Anker would return on several occasions to conduct more research, culminating in an attempt in the spring of 2007 to emulate his heroes by recreating the climb of 1924, complete with period equipment and a free climb of the second step. Hoping to prove to his peers that this feat could be accomplished. What follows is truly fascinating as the expedition mirrors the events of 1924 in ways in which even this highly trained and experienced team didn't expect.

Mark Mackenzie has made a fine debut here, the subject matter is truly fascinating but for his part Mackenzie engages the reader with some well researched and informative writing. I particularly enjoyed the biographies of the main players and the chapter layout has the reader constantly moving forward and back in time ensuring we never get too settled, contributing to a sense of unease throughout. Whether you're an accomplished mountaineer or an armchair adventurer I have no doubt that this book will hold your attention.
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9 of 9 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
This is an interesting account of the lives of Mallory and Irvine and their (successful?) attempt to summit Everest, combined with a narrative about a modern project to recreate and film their exploits. However, it's a workmanlike job and reads like what it probably is - a piece commissioned from a journalist to go with the film currently on release.

This means that there are irritating "product placement" sections about a sponsor (The North Face) and lots of bigging up of the film company and the film's director. It also reads as if quite a few people other than the author had a chance to veto or "suggest" changes.

The result is that the book is too distanced from its subject - for instance conflicts between the various climbers on the modern project are hinted at but then hurriedly painted over.

In general the writing is good and clear, but there are a couple of horrendous bits of clunky purple prose such as: "For all his swagger, he knew that most fatalities happen when people push themselves beyond their ability, when their body is unwilling to guarantee the cheques that their ambition is writing."

Summary - interesting but strangely bloodless. By the way I've seen the film - it's also very interesting on Mallory and Irvine and features some spectacular photography.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
By Brian
Format:Hardcover
for anyone like myself who hates heights but has a fascination about them and those who challenge them, this is a book to stimulate those fears. The unanswered questions regarding Mallory and Irvine will probably never be answered but this goes a long way towards the big one, did they reach the summit? just the detail of the difficulties overcome by those two explorers, which is what they were, is amazing. Equally amazing is the feat of finding the body of Mallory and the perfect preservation of his body after 75 years. Just climbing Everest is a huge risk and challenge but to recreate the conditions and equipment that was used in Mallorys' day and still be successful makes just as riveting reading. I have read a lot of books on Everest and I found this as good as any.
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