The reviews and description make it obvious that this is a long book, however it is a relatively quick read. The pacing is uneven and some parts of the latter third do get bogged down a bit, but overall I felt that getting through it was entirely worthwhile . The author also has a penchant for long lists of things - like spices, grains, characters etc. - that gets a bit annoying, almost like he's trying too hard to prove that he knows his subject matter. A lot of that can be safely skipped in the interests of time and comprehension too - the reader's appreciation of the plot is only diminished by wading through them and most listed items are not included in the glossary anyway. There is a glossary and it is neither here nor there - its presence is probably a concession to the book's intended customer base but it is nowhere near as comprehensive as it should be.
Now that the nitpicky stuff is out of the way, the book itself is a finely detailed study in evolution. Saraf has the eye of a naturalist. In the teeming ecosystem of Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk his characters are shaped by their environment, their interactions with others around them and their place in the pecking order. Some reviewers have complained about the lack of any redeeming characteristics in the cast and the general cynicism in the book, but all of his characters are recognizable (the corrupt policeman, the local hoodlum-turned-politician, the urchin, the out-of-touch NGO rep etc.) and very much creatures of their milieu. That they may seem somehow lacking in finer attributes has more to do with what they are up against rather than any darkness in the author's soul. Saraf does a fine job of developing each character at length and deftly (in most cases) tracing their interactions and the intertwining of their lives over time.
Every so often, the great storms that shook India in the last couple of decades, like assassinations and communal riots, blow through the teacup of Chandni Chowk (some iconic events actually took place on its periphery) and stir things up. For some at the bottom of the pyramid, like the protagonist - an illiterate tea seller, they just make life more inconvenient. For others, they are opportunities to be exploited for local gain. It's a well-known plot device, this interweaving of reality and fiction, and for the most part Saraf pulls it off convincingly.
For the non-Indian, this book may well be like a Discovery Channel or David Attenborough feature: vivid, educational and yet, in some ways, confirming all their misgivings about red-in-tooth-and-claw India. For the Indian, once they get past the usual gut reaction against yet another NRI seeming to write about the worst in India, it can be an eye-opener peopled with very familiar characters. However, despite its intimidating heft and epic sweep, both sets of readers will probably find it funny, absurd in parts and generally entertaining - a great "timepass" book, as they say in India.