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This 15th anniversary reissue of writer/humorist Tom Miller's travel classic follows the making and marketing of a single Panama hat from the basement of the third world to the penthouse of the first. It's a captivating story of cultures in collision, raw capitalism, "bus-plunge highways," and Miller's unending search for a drinkable cup of coffee. The Panama Hat Trail: A Journey from South America explains that Panama hats don't come from Panama; they are made two countries away, in Ecuador. (The headwear became popular when gold-rush veterans returning from California to the eastern U.S. snapped up the Ecuadoran straw hats they found on sale in Panama.) Tom Miller knows that, because he traveled there to track down the hat's origins. His account - a fascinating look at South American culture - relates an exotic and humorous journey that Miller also reported in a four-part series for NPR's "All Things Considered." The Panama hat trail leads from the Ecuadoran capital of Quito to the boisterous port of Guayaquil, where tropical indulgence is a way of life; from the village of Deleg in the Andes, (where half the adult males have gone to work in the United States) to Lago Agrio in the Amazon (where one-fifth of adult females are prostitutes). He learns of Catholic missionaries seeking converts in a country that is 98 percent Catholic; tries not to think about his chances of surviving bus rides over mountain roads; and profiles some of the last Jews living in Ecuador. Oh, and did we mention the hats? Miller investigates everything from the harvesting of straw in the jungles of Ecuador (where straw-cutters load up their donkeys with sacks of silky fiber) to the remote villages where skilled artisans painstakingly weave each Panama hat by hand (only to sell it for 70 cents) to the chic boutique in downtown San Diego where a well-heeled American purchases the finished product for 35 dollars. Much more than a mere adventure, this book is a study in both culture and the workings (and failings) of global commerce.
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7 reviews
26 of 26 people found the following review helpful
conveys with empathy South America through "Gringo" eyes
21 Jan 1999
Format:Hardcover
This book draws a wonderful and accurate picture of South America, in particular Ecuador, as seen through the eyes of a Westerner. Especially for anyone who has back-packed in these areas in the seventies and eighties, the country comes alive and one finds oneself transported back there through the author's straightforward style, gentle humour and empathy with the people and landscape. The story of the making of Panama hats, from growing the straw through to retailing the product in quality outlets throughout the States is fascinating. The life styles, understanding and expectations of the various people in the chain are portrayed in a way that captures the imagination and surrounds the reader with their reality. At the same time, one's awareness is drawn in a gentle manner and without accusation, to the situation of the "plebs" of third world countries, exploited by and dependent on the West. A satisfying book to read, very interesting and an enjoyable way to learn some of the history of the area.
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful
Great Reading for Lovers of Hats or Travel or Both
11 Dec 2005
Format:Paperback
My lifelong interest in travel literature began when, as a child, I read Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas's account of his travels among the Kurdish People of the Middle East. Miller's book is a good read on traveling in Ecuador (where the best panama hats are made), written by a professional writer in this genre (ON THE BORDER, TRADING WITH THE ENEMY: TRAVELS THROUGH CASTRO'S CUBA). This "hat classic" (my opinion), is Miller's first-hand account as he follows the making of Panama hats from the growing and harvesting of the plant material (cardoluvica palmata), through the process of its curing and preparation for weaving, the weaving itself, the various markets along the way, the chain of distribution of the hat bodies, their exportation around the world, the making of finished hats in a North American hat factory, and the sale to a San Diego retail hat store. The story ends when the final customer buys a panama hat in the retail store. Reading this book cannot help but seal one's appreciation for this materiel de resistance of the straw hat business.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful
Great Book !
8 Sep 2005
Format:Paperback
Being an Ecuadorian I really enjoyed the way the author captured the personality and idiosyncrasies of the people he meets along his journey. His descriptions of the countryside and life in Ecuador are very accurate.
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