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The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi (1570): L'arte et prudenza d'un maestro Cuoco (Lorenzo Da Ponte Italian Library) [Hardcover]

Terence Scully


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Book Description

1 Dec 2008 Lorenzo Da Ponte Italian Library
Bartolomeo Scappi (c. 1500-1577) was arguably the most famous chef of the Italian Renaissance. He oversaw the preparation of meals for several Cardinals and was such a master of his profession that he became the personal cook for two Popes. At the culmination of his prolific career he compiled the largest cookery treatise of the period to instruct an apprentice on the full craft of fine cuisine, its methods, ingredients, and recipes. Accompanying his book was a set of unique and precious engravings that show the ideal kitchen of his day, its operations and myriad utensils, and are exquisitely reproduced in this volume.Scappi's Opera presents more than one thousand recipes along with menus that comprise up to a hundred dishes, while also commenting on a cook's responsibilities. Scappi also included a fascinating account of a pope's funeral and the complex procedures for feeding the cardinals during the ensuing conclave. His recipes inherit medieval culinary customs, but also anticipate modern Italian cookery with a segment of 230 recipes for pastry of plain and flaky dough (torte, ciambelle, pastizzi, crostate) and pasta (tortellini, tagliatelli, struffoli, ravioli, pizza).Terence Scully presents the first English translation of the work. His aim is to make the recipes and the broad experience of this sophisticated papal cook accessible to a modern English audience interested in the culinary expertise and gastronomic refinement within the most civilized niche of Renaissance society.

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Product details

  • Hardcover: 800 pages
  • Publisher: University of Toronto Press (1 Dec 2008)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0802096247
  • ISBN-13: 978-0802096241
  • Product Dimensions: 16.5 x 5 x 23.9 cm
  • Amazon Bestsellers Rank: 1,220,151 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Review

'Terence Scully has done a beautiful job preparing this book. This is the first translation into English; it is highly readable, and many fans of cooking will enjoy sifting through its voluminous entries ... With a number of books on the history of cuisine to his credit, Terence Scully ... is, beyond question, a culinary expert.' -- Robert Applebaum Times Higher Education Book of the Week, April 2009 'Scully's volume makes a monumental contribution to the burgeoning field of Renaissance and early modern food studies and ... has much to contribute to contemporary discussions of material and cultural history.' -- Deborah L. Krohn Renaissance Quarterly '[The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi provides information on hundreds of topics ranging from how to prepare frog's legs for popes to the preparation of pickled tuna and a potion of dried figs, jujubes, currants, and liquorice for the sick. The detailed annotation makes this a valuable source of factual information that can illumine the whole world of late medieval and Renaissance cookery.' -- Medium Aerum

About the Author

Terence Scully is a professor emeritus in the Department of Languages and Literatures at Wilfrid Laurier University.

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Amazon.com: 4.7 out of 5 stars  6 reviews
25 of 25 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Scappi is the Joy of cooking for the Italian Renaissance 25 Jan 2009
By S. Louise Smithson - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Hardcover
Praises: Rarely is a cookbook translation of this size made available by the publisher at such a reasonable price. If you are recreating feasts for the Society of Creative Anachronism or just have an interest in Italian food this is the book for you. Over 1000 detailed recipes translated into English for the first time. With more variations within each recipe bringing the total to probably over 2000 variations. How could you not buy this book? Given the price including shipping that works out for a mere 4c a recipe.
Problems: Scully apparently did not use Zupko (Italian Weights and Measures) to standardize the translation of his measurements. The Italian pound in Rome at the time was 12oz not 16oz as stated. Many of the liquid measurements are also in error.
There are a few major and minor translation issues for example: limonecello - little lemons, translated as limes, cipollini - little onions/shallots, translated as green onions; which could affect the redaction of these recipes, use caution and if it doesn't seem quite right check the translation in the online Florio at Greg Lindahls website.
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars A new cuisine 14 April 2010
By Gael D. Stirler - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Verified Purchase
Bartolomeo Scappi rose to the highest levels of fame by serving as head chef to two Popes during the Renaissance. The Popes and the Cardinals that he served over the years appreciated his talent with food and kitchen management. His book was a best seller in its own time with numerous reprints. His fame and honor were well-earned because he always strove to find the best way to serve each cut of meat or kind of vegetable to bring out its most succulent properties.

I bought this book in pursuit of information on Medieval and Renaissance cooking so I could serve more authentic food for SCA feasts. The recipes were so clearly translated by Terrance Scully that I was able to recreate many of them with ease. Unlike so many other historical cookbook authors, Scappi gives measurements for the ingredients and the translator has presented them in ounces, pounds and litres to make them very easy to understand. Every recipe I have made from this book has been outstanding.

Its rare to find a new cuisine that is so delicious. This new cuisine is really an old one based on the foods abundently available in Rome in the 16th century. This is gourmet Italian food before pesto, tomatoes, coffee, or a heavy use of garlic, pasta, or oregano. Instead Scappi uses fresh, flavorful ingredients. Instead of tomato sauce he uses a light sauce made from orange juice, lemon juice, sugar, and spices to flavor cooked meats and egg dishes. He also uses verjuice made from sour grapes and must which is made from the sweeter grapes to flavor many dishes. Nearly everything is sprinkled with a little sugar to balance the acidic juices thus creating mouthwatering flavors that pop in your mouth and leave you wanting more. Unlike modern Italian that is dominated by garlic and onions he uses cinnamon, ginger, and pepper in exciting ways with wine and meat broth combined with dried and fresh fruit.

The index was written more for scholars than cooks and the translator has left whole sections of menus un-translated which was very frustrating for me since I wanted to know what recipes were served together. In the introduction Scully explains that the original book included a whole year of menus and was probably composed from Scappi's own ledgers.

The book also includes engravings showing the arangement of the rooms and courtyards of the Papal kitchens as well as illustrations of the numerous kitchen tools used by the cooks. They are so clear that I can use them to have historial tools made for my own use.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Awesome 18 Feb 2009
By Sera - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Verified Purchase
It was well worth the wait and any serious food historian needs to read this book. It is rich in papal history, illustrations, and food history. The illustrations along with the explanations are invaluable.
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