Reading Graham Greene is quite chastening. It makes me realise what a poverty stricken grasp of imagination and the English language that I have. Millions of readers are of course not wrong! He was a hugely gifted writer. What is less well known is that he was also a fine film critic, and the author of two superb travel books in "Journey Without Maps", and the subject of this review "The Lawless Roads". Commissioned to visit Mexico in the late thirties to report on how the ordinary people had reacted to the anti-clerical purges of President Calles, he paints a vividly entertaining picture of this country during that time period, which remains amazingly fresh to this day. Greene is your typical Englishman abroad at times complaining of mosquito's, bad food, the oppressive heat and the casual violence that was so common in Mexico then, and from what I read still is today. But he is also full of amusing dry humour, and I liked him for that.
His journey took him through Mexico City and then into the remoter southern states of Tabasco and Chiapas. Given the instability of the country and the general dislike of Gringo's, this was a genuinely dangerous journey to undertake, some of which was done on mule back. Greene makes it quite clear what he thinks of Mexico early on in the book. He says on one occasion, "I loathed Mexico - but there were times when it seemed there worse places", which was one of the nicer things he said about the country. His prose sparkles throughout with descriptions that paint a vivid description for the reader. He describes the hands of one old Indian as "like last year's leaves", and a slumped drunk as "like a doll from which the sawdust has run". This Mexico is still a country of armed pistoleros, where death potentially lurks around every corner. On another occasion he arrives at a small piece of paradise hewn out of the jungle, only to be reminded of the casual violence when he sees a bullet hole through the front door. Welcome to Mexico!
Perhaps most interesting of all for the reader, are the characters who are forged by misfortune that populate the pages. There seemed to be a lot of misfortune in Mexico following years of turmoil. Think "El Presidente is dead,long live El Presidente". It was also not that many years since Zapata's peasant revolt! As a Catholic, Greene was genuinely sympathetic for the plight of the church. He visits many ruined churches and speaks to the despairing people. Perhaps most touching of all is when a poverty stricken, half starved Indian family share what little they have with Greene and his disconsolate muleteer. I am fascinated by Mexico, through watching far too many westerns, although sadly I have never visited the place. This is the next best thing! Greene is a truly great writer who is also entertaining in the same way that Bill Bryson is today. In fact I suspect Bryson may well have read these books, and been influenced, given the style similarities. It seems incomprehensible to me that this book has been out of print for so long. This is one of the finest travel books I have read in a very long time.