I've waited a few years to read this book, after vicariously joining Theroux in China, India, Oceania, the USA, South America, Russia & all points west. I knew he'd written this some time ago but was strangely resistant to reading it until I accompanied him to more exotic & interesting (you'd think) locations, & then I forgot about it until noticing it in Waterstone's recently. If I'd read it 10-15 years ago, I wouldn't have had half as much experience of the places he visits in this book, so it was quite satisying to not only get his take on places & towns I know but compare & contrast it to my own. We're not that far apart on most things.
Although written nearly 30 years ago, with the Falklands War as both backdrop & common interest point, & featuring the odd quizzical inaccuracy (Wales isn't IN England, Paul), the book has dated quite well, in my opinion, especially with regards to that unique British (one might say mainly 'English') fascination with trips away to the seaside.
As always, it's his encounters with the residents of the land he lived in for a decade but never explored which tend to make for his most satisfying, funny & incisive points of view. Theroux gives playful sobriquets to many of those he meets along the way while at the same time being occasionally critical of what he seems to see as generalistic national personality traits, & he's not averse to letting us know if he thinks this place a 'dump' or that place 'dead'. Yet this is what has always made Theroux's writing, indeed his very objectives of travelling, so attractive to me - his need to get to the 'soul' or 'core' of a people, to understand what makes them tick & what doesn't, to look at how landscape influences societies & vice versa.
In that respect, & with the book's coastal slant in mind, 'The Kingdom By The Sea' not only mirrors many of my own experiences in travelling round the UK coastline, it offers not-so-tepid perceptions on various areas which make me want to not only visit but stay awhile. Theroux doesn't do guide books, but he writes books which you wish more guide books were like.