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The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur [Hardcover]

Jean-Claude Ellena
4.1 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (18 customer reviews)
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Book Description

5 July 2012

The French bestseller The Diary of a Nose is the story behind the creation of a perfume, from the head perfumer at Hermès.

Perfume creation is an exclusive and secretive endeavour. What is day to day life like for a perfume-maker? How does the creation of a new scent begin? How do you capture the essence of a smell on the skin?

For one year, Jean-Claude Ellena kept a diary of his life as 'parfumeur exclusif' ('le nez' or 'the nose') for Hermès. Believing that creating a scent is like creating a work of art, and describing himself as a writer using 'olfactory colours', he explains how all of the five senses come into play when creating a perfume. He also reveals how inspiration can come from a market stall, a landscape, or even the movement of calligraphy, and concludes this charming, perceptive diary with recipes for natural fragrances, each made up of three synthetic ingredients, to create the illusion of smells like freesia, orange blossom, grapefruit, pear, chocolate, cashew and cotton candy.

This is the story of a quest to capture what is most elusive. Jean-Claude Ellena offer readers a rare insight into the secrets of his business, his art, and his life as one of the world's most important and admired perfumers.


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The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur + Le Snob: Perfume + The Perfume Lover: A Personal History of Scent
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Product details

  • Hardcover: 192 pages
  • Publisher: Particular Books (5 July 2012)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1846145597
  • ISBN-13: 978-1846145599
  • Product Dimensions: 13.8 x 2.1 x 20.4 cm
  • Average Customer Review: 4.1 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (18 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Bestsellers Rank: 139,481 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Product Description

Review

Diary of a Nose explores the conundrums of his profession with the delicacyof an olfactory poet (The Wall Street Journal )

Jean-Claude Ellena has always played the fragrancegame as high art (Fréderic Malle Editions de Parfums )

Based on a year's worth of notes from the author's notebook, 'Diary of a Nose' aims to seduce (Metro )

In Diary of a Nose is the rarest of books. In it we sense that Jean-Claude Ellena appreciates the world with the passion and attention of an artist (Elle )

The man is a magician, a nose, a parfumuer ... His journal reveals in simple words a real secret: the creation of perfumes. Day by day, every emotion, every encounter, every precious moment is preserved. Here, everything is customary but nothing is ordinary, for this is where the magic happens (Le Monde )

More than a chemist or composer, I'd call Ellena a poet (Suzi Feay Independent )

Ellena's diary of the 12 months from October 2009 is sensual, serious (Carl Wilkinson Financial Times )

About the Author

In 2004, Jean-Claude Ellena was made Hermès' first 'perfumeur exclusive' at Hermès. He lives and works in the hills in Grasse in France, and designs his scents at his studio in Cabris.

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Customer Reviews

4.1 out of 5 stars
4.1 out of 5 stars
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars A complete revelation, loved it! 19 Oct 2012
By trishthedish TOP 1000 REVIEWER VINE™ VOICE
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
This has to be one of the most sensual books I've ever read in my life, and its about perfume. I have never read anything so sensual in my life as this, not poetry, not erotica, not anything. The authors desribes smells with the colours of a true artist and his sensitivity to words as well as smells, in fact to almost everything around him is extremely, beautifully hightened. I could read it just for this wonderful writing style alone, so beautiful it almost makes you want to weep. I rushed out and hung around the local perfume counter for some time after this, sad but true, it cost me money, but I felt I knew more than many of the sales assistants by the time I got to the end of this book. Brilliant, heady stuff - read it if you love perfume and / or you love beautifully sensual writing that will blow your mind.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Smell is a pleasure,perfume is literature 30 April 2013
By the lambanana VINE™ VOICE
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
The diary of a nose.

The life of a parfumeur must have elaborate prose. To describe in such an elegant way what goes into the smells and fragrances of what is essentially smelly expensive water.

It's a bit like listening to a fashion expert describe clothes. Fascinating, but ultimately they are still clothes.

What did surprise me most of all is the author, Jean-Claude Ellena, is obviously French. To capture the poetry of the original French text is amazing. The translator should certainly be commended.

I rather like the authors turn of phrase. It doesn't surprise me though, as if you had to describe why you like your aftershave or perfume most people would simply say, "It smells nice" to at best, "it's a bit flowery"

But this author has had decades of being a "nose" so has gotten used to describing in elaborate, but lovely, prose the process and story behind a perfume.

If this has taken your fancy there is a lovely French best-seller that I could also recommend.Le guide du parfum pour elle et lui Or the film staring a nose.I Do (Prête-moi ta main) [DVD]

The author works in the epicentre of the perfume industry in Grasse in the South of France. I would warn you though that if the book has encouraged a visit-Don't. For such a glamorous, fragrant, expensive industry the town is rather drab.

Overall a lovely book that is a pleasant read.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars A Nose by any other name...... 20 April 2013
By Dr. I. Cox VINE™ VOICE
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
The DIARY of a NOSE
A Year in the life of a Parfumeur
Jean-Claude Ellena
(Not to be confused with a short story by Gogol or an opera by Shostakovich)
A "Nose" is someone whose exceptional olfactory senses (sense of smell) makes them unique for the blending of fragrance oils to create inspired new fragrances / smells reproducibly.
These are the day by day observations of a creator of fine fragrances at the company Hermes over the period of one year covering his thoughts, feelings, emotions and his sources of inspiration as he creates new fragrances.
I come to this book as an organic industrial chemist who was involved, with the more "industrial" fragrance houses in perfuming household products and ensuring the stability of the "smell". This gives me a certain resonance with the subject but my experience was still a million miles from the creation of a fine fragrance. Just as knowledge of pigments and paint materials does not make one an artist (but is useful background knowledge), anyone could come to this book and be carried along by his daily thoughts and emotional responses to life and fragrance - a soul laid bare.
We start with a visit to his disorganised chaos of a studio at Cabris in the Grasse area near the Italian border.
We progress day by day through his development of projects, worldwide travel, many sources of inspirations and views of perfume development, changes in the market - all with a sense of humour and candour. As this is a translation, this has captured the spirit of the original well.
Each day recorded has a "topic" - sometimes his work on a specific project, meetings with suppliers of raw materials (natural oils from plants and animals are supplemented with new synthetic molecules) - mention is made of traditional extraction of oils and also newer techniques like liquid carbon dioxide extraction - giving purer and less "damaged" oils, many of which are chemically unstable in air. His views from visiting China and Japan give a different perspective of East vs. West cultural preferences .
The book ends with a compendium of oil bends giving simple "smells" . Only ( slight) criticism is that there aren't full proportions given for these. Evidently scope for people to experiment
Whatever your chemical knowledge, this is a fascinating insight into a creative process - not too dissimilar to painting. The influences of commerce, fashion and other "distractions" or "constraints" are also covered
Recommended!
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
3.0 out of 5 stars More poetry than autiobiography
The Diary of a Nose isn't quite the book I was expecting. Rather than a traditional diary, it is more like a book that contains snapshots and snippets of a year in the life of... Read more
Published 1 month ago by Sarah Durston
4.0 out of 5 stars Surprisingly entertaining
I got this as a risk because other reviews had enjoyed it and am so pleased I did as well.
A year in the life of the Hermes nose is an interesting, somewhat eclectic, choice... Read more
Published 1 month ago by J. A. Walls
5.0 out of 5 stars the sense of smell is one to be treasured and celebrated
Wow this wonderful volume could only have been written by the owner of a Gallic nose!! The book is divided into two parts, the first is a diary of a year in which Ellena, so... Read more
Published 3 months ago by David Spanswick
3.0 out of 5 stars A slim offering
Jean Claude Ellena is a great nose. A master of the craft and an Artist. With so much insight into the world of perfumery one wonders why we are offered such slim pickings. Read more
Published 3 months ago by C. Sax
3.0 out of 5 stars As fleeting as scent
There are some interesting reflections in this diary and you don't have to work hard to find them because it is such a short book. Read more
Published 3 months ago by S. Thomas
3.0 out of 5 stars Moments of luminosity interspersed with the mundane
I'm afraid I didn't love this as much as most of the other reviewers here. There are lovely moments where Ellena captures something very elusive in his thoughts and writing, and I... Read more
Published 3 months ago by Roman Clodia
5.0 out of 5 stars Enchanting
I'm not sure what I expected from this little (and it is little, just 145 small pages and those only sketchily filled) book. Read more
Published 4 months ago by Book Critic
4.0 out of 5 stars An upmarket scratch & sniff
I ought to start this review by saying I am a bit of a perfume fanatic (Jean Claude Ellena created my favourite ever scent L'eau d'Hiver) so it might not interest those who aren't. Read more
Published 4 months ago by littlepig littlepig
4.0 out of 5 stars Craftsman and artist
Jean-Claude Ellena is Hermes' 'parfumeur exclusif' and "The Diary of a Nose" provides a fascinating insight into the science, art, and business of perfumery. Read more
Published 5 months ago by Eleanor
4.0 out of 5 stars Beguiling, Stylish, Evocative
Just like the best perfumes, this book is very stylish and beguiling in its gentle initial impact, that nonetheless stays pleasantly and evocatively with you. Read more
Published 5 months ago by Zip Domingo
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