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Interwoven throughout the text are Roden's charming asides--the history of certain foods, definitions (Kaimak, for instance, is the cream that rises to the top when buffalo milk is simmered) and ways of preparing everything from an eggplant to a quince. In addition, Roden tells you everything you've ever wanted to know about Jewish dietary laws, what the ancient Hebrews ate and the various holidays and festivals on the Jewish calendar. Detailed sections on Jewish history are beautifully illustrated with archival photographs of families, towns and, of course, food. The Book of Jewish Food is one that any serious cook--Jewish and non-Jewish alike--would gladly have (and use often) in the kitchen. --Kyle Dean
It is nothing less than a social history of both Ashkenazi and Sephardi Judiasm told through the medium of food. The recipes have been collected and cherished by Roden, often from friends and relatives, on her travels. Most recipes are accompanied by the historical origins of the dish and thereby reveal something about Jews and Jewish life. The more celebrated and famous dishes, such as chopped liver and cholent, have whole pages of fascinating context, history and photographs devoted to them.
The result is that, as well as eating a fantastic meal (the meatballs and apricots in tomato sauce served with spinach risotto rice and followed by apfel kugel mit eppel is my favourite) you have a real sense of occasion and connection when you eat...even if, like me, you're a Gentile; you know the importance and provenance of your food and can almost see the ragged bagel seller, smell the lid being taken off the sabbath stock pot in the shtetl when you eat.
It's certainly the best and most readable cookbook I own, and in fact one of the most enjoyable books I own.
The book is divided into two sections, the first much shorter than the endlessly more fascinating second. Roughly the first third of the book is dedicated to the more traditional style of Jewish cooking, the Eastern European-influenced Ashkenazi cooking. It's in the second two-thirds of this cookbook, however, that Roden's extensive knowledge of her genre really shines through: Sephardi cooking. Such a fascinating mix of spices, flavours and ingredients! Everything I've made from this book has been nothing short of a show-stopper. Highly recommended are the Lamb with Prunes, the Lentil Soup, the Risotto with Artichokes, the Potatoes with Black Olives, the Spinach with Raisins and Pine Nuts and the Tishpishti (a walnut/almond dessert for Passover).
Finally, if you're not a truly serious foodie, you should consider buying this book for its fantastically interesting background reading. Roden is a Jewish woman who grew up in Cairo, though her family hailed from Turkey. She sheds light on not only her own background but, indeed, on the history of Jewish culture and cuisine in such places as India, China, the Balkans, Morocco, etc.
A GREAT cookbook and deserving of the extensive awards it has garnered.
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