Tony Butt brings great credibility to the task of summarizing the natural and manmade forces at work in our world of oceans and beaches. ... A comprehensive overview of most all of the phenomena and issues relevant to surfers ... also addresses issues like coastal armoring and erosion, pollution and habitat destruction, as well as the ways in which the earth 'bites back': cyclones/hurricanes, tsunamis and global warming.
... Lavishly illustrated with charts and lots of nice photos.
Job well done.
-- The Surfer's Path, Issue 72, April 2009
About the Author
Dr Tony Butt is a big wave specialist based in the Basque Country, and Post Doctoral Research Fellow at the University of Plymouth, UK. He is the author of Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing, and a regular contributor to European surfing magazines. He runs a wave prediction website, www.swell-forecast.com.