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The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates Paperback – 10 Mar 2009

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More About the Author

Tony Butt has a PhD in Physical Oceanography from the University of Plymouth, UK, and worked with the Coastal Processes Research Group at Plymouth for seven years. He has published 12 papers in peer-reviewed scientific journals and over 200 other articles on waves and the coastal environment for a non-scientific audience, plus several chapters, forewords and other contributions. He has been Staff Oceanographer for the Surfers Path magazine since 1998, and runs short courses on basic oceanography and meteorology for surfers and other coastal water users.

Tony works with non-profit organizations such as Surfers Against Sewage, Save the Waves and the Surfrider Foundation, trying to convince people that the coastline is a highly-delicate and poorly understood part of the environment, and the more we interfere with it the more problems it will cause us.

Tony is also a dedicated big-wave surfer and has appeared in numerous major television documentaries as well as being invited to several international big-wave events.

Product Description


Tony Butt brings great credibility to the task of summarizing the natural and manmade forces at work in our world of oceans and beaches. ... A comprehensive overview of most all of the phenomena and issues relevant to surfers ... also addresses issues like coastal armoring and erosion, pollution and habitat destruction, as well as the ways in which the earth 'bites back': cyclones/hurricanes, tsunamis and global warming.
... Lavishly illustrated with charts and lots of nice photos.
Job well done.
-- The Surfer's Path, Issue 72, April 2009

About the Author

Dr Tony Butt is a big wave specialist based in the Basque Country, and Post Doctoral Research Fellow at the University of Plymouth, UK. He is the author of Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing, and a regular contributor to European surfing magazines. He runs a wave prediction website, www.swell-forecast.com.

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Amazon.com: 2 reviews
A global context for surf 24 May 2010
By David Martin - Published on Amazon.com
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
I would try the author's "Surf Science" first. It's more focused. If you like it, you will want this book, though I wish the publisher would produce a second edition that places the text on a white background rather than a variety of greens, browns, and aqua. The illustrations are fine, and they're abundant.

At the moment, Dr. Butt's books appear unique in being aimed at the general surfing public. They're great resources for anyone who's fallen in love with waves.

Due for publication in October 2010 is "The Essential Beach Book; everything you wanted to know about surf, sand and rips" by Dr Rob Brander of the University of New South Wales. I expect it will be aimed at ordinary beachgoers rather than just surfers. Steve Leatherman of the University of Miami has a neat little beach survival guide, perhaps suitable for convincing Mom that the beach is a good, safe place to be. A technical volume of papers from the first international rip current symposium (Florida International University, Miami, Feb. 2010) is in preparation.

Both of Butt's books provide reading lists. I like the "Surfer's Guide" grouping of books into "Not at all Academic", "Slightly Academic", "Quite Academic", and "Very Academic". The last "list" is just one book. By the time you get to it, you've probably become a student at one of the world's university programs in surf or coastal science.

For anyone (maybe in the US) wondering whether English scientists would know much about surf, Cornwall has challenging beaches, enough so to impress Australian lifeguards working there during the northern hemisphere summer. It's not an accident that the publisher, Alison Hodge, expanded from books on gardens and nature walks to surfing.
Complementary perspective to Surf Science 28 July 2009
By Bruno Castello da Costa - Published on Amazon.com
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
The author presents a complementary perspective to his earlier book Surf Science (2004).
Like in his previous work, the author conducts extremely interesting explanations regarding the surfing environment from a friendly scientific perspective.
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