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Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing [Paperback]

Tony Butt , Paul Russell , Rick Grigg
4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (13 customer reviews)
Price: £18.95 & FREE Delivery in the UK. Details
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Book Description

27 Jun 1905
Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf. Where do waves come from? What makes every one different? Why do some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, do waves come in sets of six, and others in sets of three? What factors affect the behaviour of a surfing break? Surf Science answers all these questions and many more. It is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf.

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Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing + The Complete Guide to Surf Fitness + Surfing: A Beginner's Guide
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Product details

  • Paperback: 142 pages
  • Publisher: Alison Hodge; 2nd Revised edition edition (27 Jun 1905)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0906720362
  • ISBN-13: 978-0906720363
  • Product Dimensions: 24.4 x 19 x 1.2 cm
  • Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (13 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Bestsellers Rank: 208,499 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
  • See Complete Table of Contents

More About the Author

Tony Butt has a PhD in Physical Oceanography from the University of Plymouth, UK, and worked with the Coastal Processes Research Group at Plymouth for seven years. He has published 12 papers in peer-reviewed scientific journals and over 200 other articles on waves and the coastal environment for a non-scientific audience, plus several chapters, forewords and other contributions. He has been Staff Oceanographer for the Surfers Path magazine since 1998, and runs short courses on basic oceanography and meteorology for surfers and other coastal water users.

Tony works with non-profit organizations such as Surfers Against Sewage, Save the Waves and the Surfrider Foundation, trying to convince people that the coastline is a highly-delicate and poorly understood part of the environment, and the more we interfere with it the more problems it will cause us.

Tony is also a dedicated big-wave surfer and has appeared in numerous major television documentaries as well as being invited to several international big-wave events such as the prestigious Eddie Aikau Memorial in 1999.

Product Description

Review

'it should be a requisite read for all coastal activists concerned about beach and surf preservation.’ -- Surfrider Foundation, Making Waves, 20-5/15

‘So who would benefit from this book? Well, it's hard to think of a surfer who wouldn't...' -- The Surfer's Path, Issue 33, October/November 2002

‘The man is ... a "surf forecasting guru". If he doesn't know it, it isn't worth knowing' -- Surf Europe, Issue 22, April/May 2003

From the Back Cover

Have you ever wondered where waves come from; what makes every one different; why some peel nicely and others just close out; why, some days, waves come in sets of six, and others in sets of three; and what factors affect the behaviour of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you.

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Customer Reviews

4.5 out of 5 stars
4.5 out of 5 stars
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
41 of 41 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Whoa! 8 Aug 2003
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
This book i thought was going to be full of incoherent mumblings about fathoms and linear models but instead of a physics lessons i got very in depth, easy to comprehend information about waves. this helped me, as a surfer, understand the waves and which in turn brought my surfing to a whole new level. I fully recommend this book to anyone who has the slightest interest in the sea, whether you are a surfer of just a gazing out to sea kind of person!
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9 of 9 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars the best book for understanding waves 19 April 2007
By Ollie F
Format:Paperback
after surfing for many years i have a fair knowledge of weather and how waves are created but this book really helped me take a step up in my understanding. Easy to understand and a must buy for anyone interested in wave creation.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Relevant Science for Surfing 1 Nov 2009
Format:Paperback
I like this book. It gives a good introduction the science behind waves and their formation and transformation as they travel towards the coast. Good for anyone who fancies starting to find their own breaks and make their own forecasts from buoys.
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4.0 out of 5 stars Nice book about waves 2 Jan 2014
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
I find it an interesting book about this phenomenon essential for surfing. But I don't think it will help me surf better.
Still it's worth the money.
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5.0 out of 5 stars Good condition 2nd hand book 26 Dec 2013
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
Arrived promptly and in excellent condition for a 2nd hand book. Was expecting to see writing and markings in the book, however it is completely devoid of anything. Thank you.
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5.0 out of 5 stars surf science book 1 Dec 2013
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
i knew this particular book was what my nephew wanted as he is very interested in surfing and paddle boarding - it's going to be a great Christmas gift for him.
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5.0 out of 5 stars Very good book, well worth a read 18 Oct 2013
By Mr ACT
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
Very good book, easy to understand and well written and at a level anyone can understand such a complex subject
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