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Surf Is Where You Find It [Paperback]

Gerry Lopez
4.2 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (4 customer reviews)

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Product details

  • Paperback: 246 pages
  • Publisher: Patagonia Books; Ill edition (May 2009)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0979065917
  • ISBN-13: 978-0979065910
  • Product Dimensions: 25.9 x 19.2 x 1.7 cm
  • Average Customer Review: 4.2 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (4 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Bestsellers Rank: 723,319 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

4.2 out of 5 stars
4.2 out of 5 stars
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Gerry Lopez rule of surfing #6 read this book 10 May 2009
Would this book be as readable if it wasn't written by one of the most stylish surfers ever to slide across the face of a wave? Possibly not but it was and as a result ever word is given extra resonance by the man who wrote it.
Occasionally it can be a bit repetetive, how many time do you have to survive a cleanup set in Hawaii before you no longer say to yourself, "this is it Gerry, I'm going to die" and say well I've survived them before, I just might make it through this one aswell. The cod Eastern philosophy can be a bit cheesy too. But mainly I loved this book for the matey humour and the relaxed view of life that it portrays.
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5.0 out of 5 stars "SURF is where you find it" By Gerry Lopez 2 Feb 2012
Having read extracts from this book elsewhere (Patagonia's website, mags., etc ) and being of the 'Free Ride' generation, I was pretty keen to own a copy and it didn't disappoint whatsoever. A very readable, insightful and intelligent work in which Gerry appears quite disarming and modest about his own ground-breaking rep. and influence on modern surfing, especially at Pipe and also at other spots that he helped pioneer. The stuff about his own early days in surfing gives an interesting slant, for example about the North Shore's history. A Hero!In fact having read it thoroughly,I'll be re-reading soon & I am well sure I'll be turning to it a lot in the future.Buy it !!
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5.0 out of 5 stars Five Stars 17 Sep 2014
Format:Hardcover|Verified Purchase
Arrived signed by the man himself, what more can you ask for.
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0 of 1 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Lopez rules!! 9 Aug 2012
In case you don't know, Gerry Lopez is a Hawaiian legend from the 70s. He was the king of Pipe back then, and was also an early explorer of places like G-Land. This is a nice chunky book of articles that he's written over the years, focussing on the places he's surfed (Hawaii, Indo, Chile...) and the people he's met (too many to mention). The stories are great and they're packed with insights - Lopez is a really good writer. Criticisms? Well, the pics could have been bigger and the layout is a bit basic. Still, this book is a must-buy if you're a fan of the legendary Mr Lopez.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews on (beta) 4.6 out of 5 stars  38 reviews
25 of 25 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Superb stuff from the legend 4 May 2008
By Roger McEvilly (the guilty bystander) - Published on
I've always liked Gerry Lopez. Sure he was made into a kind of God in Big Wednesday, where I first heard about him, but there is no denying his style and grace in difficult waves. And what's more, after seeing him at G-Land in Endless Summer 2, he also showed he had a good sense of humour and was a great bloke as well. And so when I saw this book come out, I ordered it and found it reveals yet another great side to Gerry Lopez, an intelligent writer, and a thoughtful, rounded person with a great perspective on surfing and life. What a true legend.

Lopez was there when Bali and Java was just beginning to take off in the 70s and 80s, being amongst the first to surf the world-class waves there. He talks about places I've surfed and can relate to-like never, ever allowing yourself to get caught inside at inside G Land's Speedies reef on a big day, or just how far you can go back in the tube at Uluwatu on a big day. Everyone knows he was amongst the standouts on the North Shore for years in the 70s, but he was also amongst the first to see Jaws before tow-ins. There is stories here on Chile, the Mentawais, Hawaii, Australia etc, and good historical stuff from the 60s and 70s-including his best ever day at Pipeline-a west swell with a 26 second period.

He has surfed all over the world for decades, and this book contains some of his best memories and stories from those travels. He doesn't care much for the sometimes pretentious surf magazines, sponserships and inflated egos that can sometimes pervade surf culture today, he'd rather be out in remote Indo, Hawaii or Oregon with just his board and the ocean.

Need I say more? This book is superb surf writing, one of my favourites. Now I only want to see my other favourite surf legend and unpretentious traveller-Tom Curren- write a book as well.
14 of 15 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars A Very Wise Surfer 28 April 2008
By David C. Lane - Published on
Format:Hardcover|Verified Purchase
This is a much more philosophical book than one might suspect at first glance. Yes, the stories are about surfing and waves, but the underlying narrative is about HOW TO LIVE.

Outstanding collection. Much wisdom.
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars fantastic read 9 May 2008
By K. Gentzel - Published on
maybe its because i'm somewhat new to surfing, but i found this book fascinating. the author's writing style was not boastful or exaggerated, but very descriptive and fluid. in addition to the great stories there is a very gentle but important message to the book, and i have found myself thinking about it often. i have given several copies to friends as gifts. i hope the author writes another book.
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars The best ever! 29 May 2008
By Kindle Customer - Published on
Gerry is really like that: laid back, not interested in ego tripping and probably one of the top pioneers in surfing history. Oh yeah and probably the best style surfer ever. He truly defines courage: he's scared to death but does it anyway, and oh so well.
The message in the book is simple. . .and immense. Straight to the heart with no bs along the way. Funny, warm and totally peaceful. The zen master of surfing.
He makes it seem so easy, but you know he just worked his tail off and still does to be that good. Anyone who thinks that surfers don't have a work ethic needs to read this book. So does everybody else.
He talks story just like that. Doesn't take credit, he just shares his experiences. And what experiences they are. Wow! All those incredible people and all those incredible places.
I've been a surfer for 40+ years and he is all I ever wish I could have been and wasn't. I teach surfing; he teaches me.
He has so much story to tell that he kind of skips around from here to there and you know he could probably write a couple more books just like this one, and I hope he does. Hawaii, G-land, Bali, Chile. . .on and on and you know it just scratches the surface. More please.
Savor this book. Read it one story at a time. Take your time and let the overall ride take you where it goes. Just like surfing.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars I simply got caught inside 4 Jan 2010
By Felipe Cruz Ferrero - Published on
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
The book is made of several stories which have a lesson in both surfing and life. I loved the fact that Gerry talked about fear and how he has been confronted by the sea several times, i guess its the first time an iconic surfer like him gives us a glimpse of their inner thoughts while surfing.
Personally we always see people like Gerry like stone cold people that are not afraid of anything, but after reading this book i realized that where they excel is in the way they confront their fears.

Funny enough a few days ago I was surfing and a rogue set was on its way to devour me, for a split second i doubted and got very negative thoughts, but then i remembered the phrase ... when in doubt paddle out and started a frenzy paddle and made it =)

The book is great, i will treasure several of the lessons in it.

thanks Gerry !
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