by Kimball Taylor
|
Riding the Magic Carpet: A Surfer's Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wave by Tom Anderson |
by John Long
|
Zero Break: An Illustrated Collection of Surf Writing, 1777-2004 by Matt Warshaw |
by Tim Winton
|
See buying choices for this item to see if it's one of the millions that are eligible for Amazon Prime.
Customers Who Bought This Item Also Bought
Product details
Would you like to update product info or give feedback on images?
|
Product Description
Review
"My arms and shoulders were on fire, and I was feeling lightheaded and numb. Every time I broke over a wave, there was another one outside. I was way past my second wind and my third, but I kept paddling, mechanically, flat on my board under the glare of the sun, white spots now sparking into my vision, breathing rapid and hollow, and still the waves kept coming, and the sounds of their cracking and curling overlaid the steady rumble behind me and--every once in a while, woven into the work of the sea--there was a shard of conversation ... voices drifting through it all, coming from somewhere out in the kelp, like the music of my delirium ... voices like spirits standing at the gates, the words fragmented, indecipherable, but forming in my hallucinating consciousness a recurring phrase: "TRESPASSERS WILL BE EATEN!"
Product Description
Each of the stories in The Lost Coast is a raw glilmpse of surf life - from sliding into cold, stiff neoprene to experiencing the ectasy of the "Pure Art of Surfing". They capture the movement, mythology, fantasy, and philosophy of surf life and culture on the sweet and ragged wild edge of beauty.
"My arms and shoulders were on fire, and I was feeling lightheaded and numb. Every time I broke over a wave, there was another one outside. I was way past my second wind and my third, but I kept paddling, mechanically, flat on my board under the glare of the sun, white spots now sparking into my vision, breathing rapid and hollow, and still the waves kept coming, and the sounds of their cracking and curling overlaid the steady rumble behind me and--every once in a while, woven into the work of the sea--there was a shard of conversation ... voices drifting through it all, coming from somewhere out in the kelp, like the music of my delirium ... voices like spirits standing at the gates, the words fragmented, indecipherable, but forming in my hallucinating consciousness a recurring phrase: "TRESPASSERS WILL BE EATEN!"
Product Description
Each of the stories in The Lost Coast is a raw glilmpse of surf life - from sliding into cold, stiff neoprene to experiencing the ectasy of the "Pure Art of Surfing". They capture the movement, mythology, fantasy, and philosophy of surf life and culture on the sweet and ragged wild edge of beauty.
Inside This Book
(Learn More)
First Sentence
ON A JET-BLACK MORNING in February of 1965, I had just crested the summit, flicked the gearbox into neutral, and was flying down the long, treacherous Oxnard grade. Read the first page
Front Cover | Copyright | Table of Contents | Excerpt | Back Cover
ON A JET-BLACK MORNING in February of 1965, I had just crested the summit, flicked the gearbox into neutral, and was flying down the long, treacherous Oxnard grade. Read the first page
Explore More
Concordance
Browse Sample PagesConcordance
Front Cover | Copyright | Table of Contents | Excerpt | Back Cover
Suggested Tags from Similar Products(What's this?)Be the first one to add a relevant tag (keyword that's strongly related to this product)
|
What Do Customers Ultimately Buy After Viewing This Item?
 |
42% buy the item featured on this page: Stories from the Surf: The Lost Coast |
 |
20% buy Riding the Magic Carpet: A Surfer's Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wave £6.29 |
 |
14% buy All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora £9.09 |
 |
12% buy Dogs of Winter £6.99 |
Customer Reviews
|
Share your thoughts with other customers:
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
Share your thoughts with other customers: Create your own review
|
|
Customer Discussions
Beta (What's this?)|
This product's forum
(0 discussions)
Ask questions, Share opinions, Gain insight
Active discussions in related forums
|
Related forums
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Listmania!
|
|
Look for similar items by category
Feedback
- Would you like to update product info or give feedback on images?
- I am the Author, and I want to comment on my book.
- I am the Publisher, and I want to comment on this book.
Caught inside: a Surfer's Year...
" Wonderful . . . [Duane is] an ontologist of dudedom, Henry David...
Read more
|
More From Drew Kampion
Art of the Surfboard by Greg Noll Surfing has a huge fanbase and cult appeal. Noll Surfboards are an...
Read more
|
Treat Someone
With an Amazon.co.uk Gift Certificate, you can get them what they want (even if you don't know what that is). |
||||||||
| |||||
Your Recent History
(What's this?)|
You have no recently viewed items or searches.
After viewing product detail pages or search results, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. Look to the right column to find helpful suggestions for your shopping session. |
Continue Shopping: Top Sellers
| ||||
Amazon Home | |
| International Sites: United States | Germany | France | Japan | Canada | China | |
| Business Programs: Sell on Amazon | Fulfilment by Amazon | Join Associates | Join Advantage | |
| Customer Service | Help | View Basket | Your Account | |
| About Amazon.co.uk | Careers at Amazon | |
| Conditions of Use & Sale | Privacy Notice © 1996-2009, Amazon.com, Inc. and its affiliates |