This is a fantastic story, set in one of surfing's most intruiging arenas - the North Shore of Hawaii. It doesn't really matter whether the author has lightly sprinkled some 'story dust' over the events, because it's a great read anyway.
The rivalry between Foo and Bradshaw is brilliantly built up, and escalates in an inevitable manner, and the descriptions of surfing and the Hawaiian big wave culture keep Andy Martin's books right up there with the best surf lit. A real page turner.
Alongside 'Riding the Magic Carpet' this is one of the best surf books to come out in ages, and highly recommended. Read it and enjoy!