Why is the word multicultural needed in the title?
The history of British Food is multicultural but it is not as recognised as it should be. And despite what the jacket notes say, this is not just a book for someone interested in 'British multicultural cuisine' but for anyone who is interested in British food history.
Covering roughly the last 150 years, Panikos Panayi charts the main influences on the development of what we eat, as influenced by successive periods of immigration and the changing migrant communities in the UK. This is a book not just about food, but also about people and their experiences. It is impressively researched, as evidenced by the long list of references at the end, but it is also fluently written, making for a fascinating read. Recorded are the ebb and flow of taste as fashion changes in the mainstream, how ethnic groups come to adapt their own food for British taste, and sometimes how those groups come to reproduce food of a different ethnic origin through their economic position.
As Panikos Panayi says, this is not a comprehensive study. It's success is to look at certain areas in detail and draw insights about how, what and why we eat what we do. However, it is just as importantly a story about people. Despite the complexity of the subject, it is a remarkably easy read, and for anyone interested in reading or writing about food history in the UK, it is essential reading.