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Technical Details
- Removes virtually all non-water based stains from color and B&W slides, negatives and prints
- Containing no water, PEC-12 dries instantly with no emulsion swelling and leaves no residue.
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Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
Amazon Verified Purchase
This is fantastic for all Kodak slides. Very happy customers in that department. Also very useful for cleaning sticker residue that may get left behind on stuff. Probably also good for cleaning other things but I'll have to experiment and let you all know what they are!
Most Helpful Customer Reviews on Amazon.com (beta)
Amazon.com:
23 reviews
44 of 44 people found the following review helpful
Amazing stuff
31 July 2008
I learned about PEC-12 at a professional photo convention in Chicago, years ago, and have been using it ever since. It will take Sharpie marker off both the base and emulsion side of film and prints with little or no residue. Also, I have cleaned/restored what looked like serious old water marks off of the base side of film shot in the in 1944. This film was nitrate 6x9 format negs, so without PEC-12, they were dumpster fodder.
Since then, I have used it to take Sharpie off of lots of surfaces. So.. just about any place that Sharpie marks or labels are a problem, give it a shot and it probably will solve the problem. I bought a pint last time and that probably will be a life time supply. No shelf life problem.
Since then, I have used it to take Sharpie off of lots of surfaces. So.. just about any place that Sharpie marks or labels are a problem, give it a shot and it probably will solve the problem. I bought a pint last time and that probably will be a life time supply. No shelf life problem.
38 of 38 people found the following review helpful
Does what it says
1 Jun 2010
I got this cleaner because it is the one I have seen recommended in numerous retouching forums, articles, and books. It is the kind of product you only use if you don't have a choice, if your original is unusable as it is. It's not something you would use on all photos you plan to scan, just when you must.
I have had pretty good luck with it using it on old slides and transparencies. It doesn't make them good as new (that would be impossible) but it does remove a lot of the mildew and fungus that would have made them totally useless. In the process, it saved me hours of retouching.
On prints you have to have a gentle hand. Pressing too hard or using too much solution can cause further damage. If used correctly, you do get improvement. If you can get them fairly clean with a blower, a microfiber cloth, etc., I'd try that first. If there is recognizable fungus or mold, you have no choice.
If it's a historic or essential photo, I would photograph it with a good, sharp, macro lens prior to attempting to clean it. Sometimes the damage that is there is so deep that simply rubbing it with anything at all makes it worse. Once you, at least, have a good photograph of it, then attempt the cleaning very gently. This is an extra step and extra work, but it is totally safe. (This is also the way to go if you have photos printed on honeycomb or other textured papers since they don't scan well).
Once you use the product, you can scan the image. I would never put an image full of fungus, mold, etc. on a scanner and risk contaminating successive images, so cleaning first is a must. (A good scanner glass cleaner is also a must. I recommend the Kinetronics Glass Cleaning Kit for Flatbed Scanners, also available at Amazon.)
Cleaning is not a substitute for restoration work, but it does take you to a point at which you can begin restoration work. I use Pec Pads that are lint free 4"x 4" little pads. This sounds small, but it's better for intricate work since you work on one area/problem at a time.
Another thing: this is a pretty strong smelling solution. I have asthma, so I use it outdoors wearing a mask. Between the mask, the lint-free gloves to avoid getting fingerprints on the slide or print, the tweezers or wooden skewers to hold the slide to the prepared work surface, working outdoors, and the fear of doing more harm than good, this process is a little tense and difficult.
But it is worth it. Anything that can possibly be rescued, has been rescued with this product. And, if you are gentle, don't rub, and don't press too hard, you (at least) don't further damage those things that can't be rescued with current technology.
I have had pretty good luck with it using it on old slides and transparencies. It doesn't make them good as new (that would be impossible) but it does remove a lot of the mildew and fungus that would have made them totally useless. In the process, it saved me hours of retouching.
On prints you have to have a gentle hand. Pressing too hard or using too much solution can cause further damage. If used correctly, you do get improvement. If you can get them fairly clean with a blower, a microfiber cloth, etc., I'd try that first. If there is recognizable fungus or mold, you have no choice.
If it's a historic or essential photo, I would photograph it with a good, sharp, macro lens prior to attempting to clean it. Sometimes the damage that is there is so deep that simply rubbing it with anything at all makes it worse. Once you, at least, have a good photograph of it, then attempt the cleaning very gently. This is an extra step and extra work, but it is totally safe. (This is also the way to go if you have photos printed on honeycomb or other textured papers since they don't scan well).
Once you use the product, you can scan the image. I would never put an image full of fungus, mold, etc. on a scanner and risk contaminating successive images, so cleaning first is a must. (A good scanner glass cleaner is also a must. I recommend the Kinetronics Glass Cleaning Kit for Flatbed Scanners, also available at Amazon.)
Cleaning is not a substitute for restoration work, but it does take you to a point at which you can begin restoration work. I use Pec Pads that are lint free 4"x 4" little pads. This sounds small, but it's better for intricate work since you work on one area/problem at a time.
Another thing: this is a pretty strong smelling solution. I have asthma, so I use it outdoors wearing a mask. Between the mask, the lint-free gloves to avoid getting fingerprints on the slide or print, the tweezers or wooden skewers to hold the slide to the prepared work surface, working outdoors, and the fear of doing more harm than good, this process is a little tense and difficult.
But it is worth it. Anything that can possibly be rescued, has been rescued with this product. And, if you are gentle, don't rub, and don't press too hard, you (at least) don't further damage those things that can't be rescued with current technology.
23 of 23 people found the following review helpful
Yep, this is the stuff.
3 Dec 2008
Amazon Verified Purchase
It's recommended by pros. I used it on my vintage Ektachrome slides, and then scanned at 300 dpi. No damage, no scratches. Like they say, only a drop or 2 does it.
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