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Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance Paperback – 28 Feb 2006

18 customer reviews

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Product details

  • Paperback: 228 pages
  • Publisher: Stackpole Books; New Ed edition (28 Feb. 2006)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0811733394
  • ISBN-13: 978-0811733397
  • Product Dimensions: 18.4 x 1.1 x 23.2 cm
  • Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (18 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Bestsellers Rank: 35,854 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Inside This Book

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First Sentence
It's nothing new to call climbing a balance sport, but the "why" behind the concept has never been fully explained. Read the first page
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Front Cover | Copyright | Table of Contents | Excerpt | Index | Back Cover
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Customer Reviews

4.7 out of 5 stars
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

23 of 23 people found the following review helpful By Oskar Axelsson on 8 Sept. 2007
Format: Paperback
...this book can take you there. I have read several books on training for climbing but they are all aiming at the professionals or very, very accomplished climbers. This book is for people like me. Those who are not yet good, live anormal life with a family and a job and try to fit training into a busy schedule. This book really helps. It shows some excercises that worked wonders for my technique. It gives realistic training tips. Especially the tips about performance pyramids has taken me up several grades in performance. If you love climbing but is not professional, get it.
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6 of 6 people found the following review helpful By CW on 3 Dec. 2009
Format: Paperback
I've been climbing for 4 months and have recently hit a plateau in regards to how far strength alone can get me.
My lack of technique has been becoming increasingly apparent, and routes I felt I should be climbing were near impossible due to my lack of technique. Watching other climbers was great, but without a knowledge of what they were doing, it didn't really help my own progress.

I've had this book for two weeks and the improvement it has instilled in me is amazing. I'm gaining a lot from the sections on balance and basic movement, and this is just scratching the surface of what this book has to offer.
For example, climbing a 5+ route earlier today which I find difficult and usually have to take lots of rests on, putting into action techniques from the book I managed to glide up it 3 times in a row.

Later, a 6a which usually stumps me, I managed to get past the crux which normally ends my climb.

I feel much more confident on the rocks, and I really look forward to where the knowledge in this book can take me.
For other beginners who have been climbing regularly for 4+ months, who are also starting to hit a wall, I wholeheartedly recommend this book.

For those who also feel their technique is poor, I believe this book and accompanying DvD can really help them improve.
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful By B. OSullivan on 2 Dec. 2010
Format: Paperback
This book is a gem.

Between this and Dave MacLeod's "9 out of 10 climbers.." I've improved massively in terms of grades. But the real gem is how I've improved in terms of quality of movement. On the easier grades I'm moving effortlessly and dare I say it, starting to look stylish!

It's the exercises that really make this book. Silent feet and glue hands will transform your climbing from slappy, scratching, lunging, flailing into deliberate, accurate, precise and in time balletic movement.

Straight Arm, reverse traversing, turning and flagging have transformed my overhang technique and made the easier grades a real pleasure: Previously I would get up V3 slabs, but on overhangs V0 was hard work, and V1 failed more often than not. Now they are much more evenly matched.

The idea of a climbing pyramid is fantastic. You put your 'hardest' climb at the top, then you should have more numerous climbs at each grade below. So for instance, my climbing pyramid last month looked as follows:

V4
V3,V3,V3
V2,V2,V2,V2,V2,V2

But this month I've nailed two V4's, so now I'll push the pyramid up as follows:

V5,
V4,V4,V4,
V3,V3,V3,V3,V3,V3

Previously I was just trying the hardest possible climb I could manage and ignoring the lower ones completely. But as the book emphasises, doing the lower ones perfectly is responsible for more improvement in the long run than just working the hardest problem. Tennis players understand this when they practice just serves or backhands. Golfers understand this by practising just their driving. But we too often feel the pressure to 'always perform' when there is a crowd watching us on a wall.

Very highly recommended.
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7 of 7 people found the following review helpful By Katarzyna Osipowicz on 17 Feb. 2009
Format: Paperback
I would strongly recommend this book. Even my very advanced climbing friends call this book: 'pure science of climbing'.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful By Minion on 22 May 2014
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
I never write reviews but was forced to by the fact my climbing friends laughed at me for buying this and it turning out to be the best purchase in a long time. I am absolutely confident I will be leagues ahead of them in a few months and will have to ditch them and find some new mates who are super good at climbing.

I have been climbing at an indoor bouldering gym in London (the Arch) for just over a year. I do what almost everyone else there seems to do, and go with a few mates and climb the hardest routes I can do and try and learn off better climbers around me (which the authors explain is a pretty poor idea).

This has obviously worked to a degree, but I knew that I was not going to get much better without going on some kind of muscle building regime (I am a runt) or learning about technique. In fact, Dan and Douglas dispel the notion of "strength vs. technique" and break climbing down a bit further laying out base of support, centre of gravity, movement techinque, physiology etc etc

The book takes an academic approach to every aspect of climbing with no stone left unturned. There is very little to critcise at all. At first, I wasn't familiar with some of the terms like "redpoint" but I'm sure for most climbers that that would be common terminology.

The authors lay out aims and plans for someone who clearly has a lot of time to climb and is quite passionate about it. As a London-dwelling mid twenties indoor boulderer the amount of time I will be able to dedicate is way off what they describe, but this doesn't matter as they lay out the ideals: you adjust their plans to what you can put in. I am sure I will be a better climber for this and it was less than the price of a one hour lesson.

Don't be an idiot - buy the book.
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